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CHINA 

ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 



■"'jelSrBBEl' 




HONG KONG: FROM KOWLOON 

Showing the well-known Peak, with the city at its base. 



CHINA 



ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 



BY 



T. HODGSON LIDDELL, R.B.A. 



WITH 40 ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR 
BY THE AUTHOR 




NEW YORK 
JOHN LANE COMPANY 

LONDON: GEORGE ALLEN & SONS 
MCMX 



DSi/0 

u 



JUM 1 1985 



8 



5"' 



s 



0?/ 



CHINA: THE ARTIST'S TASK 

I UNDERTOOK this joumey to China solely to paint 
pictures of a country I had during all my life heard a 
great deal of, and, in my book, I try to convey my 
impressions as an artist. I had occasionally heard of 
and seen sketches made by residents in and visitors to 
China, but I am not aware that a concerted attempt has 
ever before been made to produce and show to those at 
home a series of pictures which might illustrate, at any 
rate, some parts of China known, or of interest, to 
Europeans. 

If to a certain extent I restricted myself to illustrat- 
ing these better-known parts, it was because I felt that 
the less-known places, though equally picturesque, would 
not, as yet, appeal to the public ; and also I knew well 
beforehand that the difficulties I should have to face, to 
work even where I did, would be very great. And, in- 
deed, I found I had not underestimated these difficulties. 

The Chinese are, naturally, very artistic ; but, in most 
places where I worked, they have never before seen any 
one attempting to paint outside from nature. One has 
only to think of how the crowd would gather if a China- 
man, in national costume, were to set up an easel and 



CHINA: THE ARTIST'S TASK 

begin to paint in one of our own streets, to realise a 
little of what I had to put up with. I had great crowds 
of curious natives to manage and to humour, and in 
other cases I had to persuade the officials to allow me 
to sketch. Their whole idea, it seemed to me, was that 
a foreigner sketching meant making maps and plans 
for some ulterior purpose. 

The difficulty I experienced, and the long, patient, 
persistent efforts I had to make, before I could persuade 
those most highly educated and placed officials immedi- 
ately in touch with the Throne even to petition the 
Empress Dowager to grant me that permission which 
I ultimately obtained — to work at the Summer Palace — 
was only one, though the most determined, effort to keep 
me outside. But once I had obtained that, and become 
known (and, I flatter myself, rather liked), and conse- 
quently favoured by those officials, my difficulties were 
smoothed over as far as possible. 

Then I had to contend with the climate, a very serious 
matter ; to work in extreme heat and extreme cold ; at 
times in very moist heat, and again in great dryness; 
the mere keeping of my paper and materials in fit 
condition was quite a serious matter. 

Of the places I visited and illustrated the chief were, 
in the order of my journey : Hong Kong, Canton, Macao, 
and the neighbourhood of these places, in the south. 
Shanghai was another centre, and from there I visited 



CHINA: THE ARTIST'S TASK 

and worked in the Soochow and Tahu or Great Lake 
district, and at Bing-oo, Kashing, and Hangchow, with 
its famous West Lake. In the north I visited Pei-tai-ho, 
Shan-hai-kwan, Tientsin, and finally Peking, with its 
world-famous palaces and temples. 

China is such a vast country, and holds such wealth 
of beauty and interest, that an artist might spend years 
and then only have taken the cream from each place. 
My visit was only for one year, and therefore I had 
to cut my coat according to my cloth, and leave for a 
possible future visit many notable scenes which might 
well be depicted and shown to the world. I venture to 
think that if Europeans could but see more pictures, 
realistically painted, of the natural and created beauties 
of that great Empire, they would form a better opinion, 
not only of the country, but of the civilisation and very 
high artistic sense of the people. 

I trust that, in issuing my work to the Public, it 
will be understood that to all intents I have acted the 
difficult part of a Pioneer in this direction, and have at 
any rate overcome some of the scruples of the Chinese, 
as well as returned home with a very high opinion of, 
and a great liking for, them. 

My visit to Japan was but a short one, a holiday 
after a long spell of hard work in very great heat; but 
I could not help comparing the two countries artisti- 
cally, very much (from my point of view) in favour of 



CHINA: THE ARTIST'S TASK 

China, which, with increased facilities for travelling, will 
become a great holiday ground for, at any rate, the 
wealthier traveller. 

I owe a debt of gratitude to friends at home and in 
China, who by their help and advice enabled me to 
undertake this journey, and I take this opportunity of 
expressing my grateful thanks. Also to my hosts at 
Hong Kong, Canton, Shanghai, and Tientsin, for their 
great kindness and hospitality ; to our Minister and the 
Staff of the British Legation at Peking, and my many 
friends in China, for all their kindness ; and last, but not 
least, to express my thanks to those Chinese gentlemen 
who were themselves so helpful to me, and so apprecia- 
tive of the efforts I made to depict some of the beautiful 
scenes in their country. 

In the production of this book I owe much to my 
wife, whose aid has been invaluable. 

T. H. L. 



CONTENTS 



CHAP. PAGE 

I. HONG KONG i 

II. NEW AND OLD KOWLOON 7 

III. MACAO 12 

IV. CANTON— THE PEARL RIVER 17 

V. CANTON FROM THE WALLS . . . . . . .23 

VI. SHANGHAI 29 

VII. SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY 37 

VIII. SHANGHAI {continued) 46 

IX. SOOCHOW AND TAHU 51 

X. HANGCHOW 59 

XI. HANGCHOW SETTLEMENT 64 

XIL HANGCHOW CITY 68 

XIII. GOOD-BYE TO HANGCHOW 75 

XIV. JAPAN ^2, 

XV. PEI-TAI-HO 92 

XVI. SHAN-HAI-KWAN 105 

XVIL TIENTSIN 113 

XVIII. PEKING 119 

XIX. VISIT TO THE WINTER PALACE 131 

XX. PEKING: TEMPLE OF HEAVEN . . . . . .137 

ix 



CONTENTS 

CHAP. PAGE 

XXI. THE LAMA TEMPLE 145 

XXn. CONFUCIAN TEMPLE AND HALL OF THE CLASSICS . 152 

XXin. THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS . . . .156 

XXIV. A RIDE ROUND THE SUMMER PALACE . . . .167 

XXV. I OBTAIN AN EDICT 175 

XXVI. THE SUMMER PALACE 179 

XXVII. RETURN TO PEKING .194 

GLOSSARY 199 

INDEX OF NAMES 201 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PEKING: THE PORCELAIN PAGODA, NEAR THE SUMMER 

PALACE Cover 

HONG KONG: FROM KOWLOON Frontispiece 

Showing the well-known Peak, with the city at its base. 

HONG KONG: CHOW-TIME Facing p. i 

Lighting the fires for the evening meal. 

HONG KONG: THE FLOWER MARKET . . . . „ lo 

A STREET IN MACAO , 14 

NEAR CANTON : FISHING-BOATS ON THE PEARL RIVER „ 17 

CANTON RIVER „ 20 

The inhabitants of these boats are born, live, and die in them. 

CANTON „ 23 

A General View — also of the Flowery Pagoda — from the Walls near 



the Five-Storied Pagoda. 



SHANGHAI 
SHANGHAI 
SHANGHAI 



THE NEW MALOO, NATIVE CITY . . „ 37 

THE PIECE-GOODS TEMPLE, CITY WALL. „ 40 

NATIVE CITY „ 44 



This old Tea-House is said to be the origin of the Willow Pattern 
Plate. 

LOONGWHA TEMPLES, NEAR SHANGHAI . . . . „ 46 

KWANGFOONG, TAHU „ 51 

The Great Lake north of Soochow. 

NEAR MUTU, ABOVE SOOCHOW „ 54 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

AT WONG-DONG: CORMORANT FISHING .... Facing p. 57 

THE BRIDGE AT KWANGFOONG „ 58 

As seen from a Mandarin's grave. 

THE TEMPLE AT BING-00 : WATER GATE AND CITY 

WALL „ 60 

BING-00: A WIDOW'S MONUMENT „ 62 

HANGCHOW: A BRIDGE ON THE CAUSEWAY, WEST LAKE „ 65 

HANGCHOW: PAILAU AT THE IMPERIAL LIBRARY . „ 66 

WATER-BUFFALO AT WORK IN THE PADDY-FIELDS . „ 73 

HANGCHOW: THE NORTH GATE „ 77 

HANGCHOW: LOTUS ISLAND, WEST LAKE . . . „ 82 

Showing one of several Pavilions in this pleasure-resort. 

THE ROCK TEMPLE, PEI-TAI-HO ,102 

THE GREAT WALL ABOVE SHAN-HAI-KWAN . . . „ 109 

SHAN-HAI-KWAN : THE MAIN STREET , m 

SHAN-HAI-KWAN: AN HOTEL SIGN ,,112 

AT TIENTSIN 114 

PEKING: THE EMPEROR'S ROBING TEMPLE, THE 

TEMPLE OF HEAVEN ,141 

PEKING: THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, THE SACRIFICIAL 

ALTAR ,,142 

The Emperor's way from his Robing Temple — behind the 
spectator — is through the central gateway and up the steps to the 
sacrificial altar of the Temple (" The centre of the universe "). 

PAILAU IN THE LAMA TEMPLE, PEKING . . . „ 146 

PEKING: THE LAMA TEMPLE ....... ,,148 

Open-air worship by Lamas at certain periods of the moon. The 

yellow roof and red walls betoken Imperial patronage, 
xii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PEKING: PORCELAIN PAILAU AT THE HALL OF THE 

CLASSICS Facing p. 153 

Erected by Chien Lung, the builder of the Summer Palace. 
THE YELLOW TEMPLE, NEAR PEKING .... ,,154 
NANKOW PASS: GATE OF THE GREAT WALL . . „ 166 

PEKING: SEEN FROM THE DRUM TOWER . . . „ 173 

Coal Hill on the left ; beneath, the Gate of the Forbidden City ; 
to the right, the Dagoba, which is within the precincts of the 
Winter Palace. 

PEKING: THE BELL TOWER ,,174 

PEKING: THE SUMMER PALACE ,,182 

Showing the greater part. The central buildings are Temples. 

Below is seen the yellow roof of the State Audience Hall. 

In the distance are the Western Hills. 

PEKING: THE GRAND PAILAU, SUMMER PALACE . „ 184 

The chief entrance to the Audience Hall and Temples from the 
Lake. Through the central arch in the distance is seen the 
Dragon Temple. 

PEKING: PAVILION OF THE LATE EMPRESS, SUMMER 

PALACE . ,,187 

PEKING: THE MARBLE JUNK „ 191, 

This imitation of an old junk, on the Lake of the Summer Palace, 
is used as a Tea-House for the Imperial family. The marble 
paddle-wheels were added during the late reign. 



HONG KONG: CHOW-TIME 

Lighting the fires for the evening meal. 



CHINA 

ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 



CHAPTER I 

HONG KONG 

Arrival and General Impression. 

HONG KONG, with its majestic Peak rising in 
glory above a shimmering sea, is one of the 
most beautiful things in the world. Look at 
the outline of the hills, broken and softened here 
and there by mist floating gossamer-like ; then look 
at the town of Victoria nestling at its foot, and the 
shipping of many nations, from frowning battleship and 
stately liner to the matting-sailed junk and tiny sampan 
— a wondrous place! 

Watch the Peak towards evening, when the smoke 
of the fires from the Chinese quarter rises gently up 
the hillside. See this soft-coloured, vaporous smoke of 
chow-time, with its mysterious suggestions, as it moves 
slowly in the quiet atmosphere. Thoughts come to you 
then not only of the prosaic cooking-time of China, but 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

of burning joss-sticks and quiet worship of which we of 
the West have but vague ideas. 

Climb the hill on a brilliant sunny morning and 
look round over the many islands of red and grey rock, 
dotted about on the gleaming water, with sails sparkling, 
and perhaps on the far horizon a homeward-bound liner 
with its freight of humanity, goods, and letters with their 
messages to the loved ones at home. Or look down, at 
night, over the town with its thousands of lights glinting, 
and out over the harbour to busy Kowloon, at your feet 
myriads of flitting fireflies, and a brilliant moon and 
stars overhead. This is altogether one of the most 
mysterious, fascinating, and beautiful sights one can 
imagine. 

Who, only seeing this side of it, would guess it could 
be the scene of such ravaging storms as the typhoon of 
1908 or previous years, when houses were unroofed and 
wrecked, big ships driven ashore, junks swept away 
never to be seen again, and sampans lost by the score, 
all with their quota of human souls. Such is Nature — 
ever changing, beautiful, mysterious, with terrible and 
gloomy, glorious, sunny and joyous side. 

Separated from the mainland by a channel varying 
in width from one mile at Kowloon Point to a quarter 
of a mile at the Lyeemoon Pass, the island of Hong 
Kong or Hiang Kiang, on which is built the town of 
the same name (more correctly, Victoria), was ceded to 



HONG KONG 

the British in 1841. The island is very irregular in 
shape, about ten miles long by two to five miles wide, 
and rising to a height of nearly 2000 feet. The geological 
formation is mainly granite, and the hills in the upper 
parts are bare ; but lower down, in and about the town 
and up what have been rough gulleys, our countrymen 
have planted trees and made beautiful gardens and lovely 
walks leading up to their pretty houses nestling in 
sheltered nooks on the hillside. High up one sees them, 
and to these the well-to-do colonists are carried to and 
fro in chairs, on poles borne by two or four coolies. 
There are very beautiful botanic gardens overlooking the 
town and bay ; and when I paid my first visit to them 
they were near their best, and I was greatly struck by 
a beautiful erythrea tree with its gorgeous red blossoms. 
Alas ! within twelve months, when I went again, the 
dreaded typhoon had broken this and many other fine 
specimens. And another example of the terrible destruc- 
tion caused by these dreaded typhoons was brought still 
nearer home to me. The house in which I was a guest, 
on my first visit, had the roof torn oft' and was almost 
a ruin ; the rooms in which I had spent such pleasant 
times with my genial host were laid open to the skies ; 
and many months afterwards the house was only begin- 
ning again to wear its former appearance ; because, what- 
ever damage is done, the colonist in his quiet way 
immediately gives orders for it to be repaired, and 

3 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

goes on with his business as if nothing unusual had 
happened. 

The buildings of Victoria are very fine. I need only 
mention a few examples — the Hong Kong and Shanghai 
Bank, the Hong Kong Club, and the New Law Courts 
and Post Office now being built, all on the front, and 
largely on land gained from the sea by the foresight 
and energy of some of the leading colonists. Up behind, 
near the Botanic Gardens and looking over the town, 
is Government House, watching, as it were, over the 
destinies of the colony in charge of its occupant. 

Scenes in the street are interesting and very cosmo- 
politan. Here you see the Britisher intent on business ; 
there the tourist in gay attire, men and women just 
landed from a liner, and making the most of a little 
stay in port to see all they can ; there, again, the shout- 
ing chair-coolies, anxious for a fare. All animation and 
business is this Gate of the East. 

A most interesting walk is that along the front facing 
the harbour. Starting west from the Hong Kong Club, 
hub of the colony, one sees the Star Ferry Wharf, from 
whence plies the steam-ferry to and from Kowloon. Then 
there are various wharves and landing-places opposite great 
modern buildings, the offices of the shipping and other 
merchants. Between these wharves and jetties, packed 
closely, lie many native boats on which the owners live. 
They are ready to carry cargo of any kind, to ships in 



HONG KONG 

the harbour, or to other parts of the colony; there are 
smaller boats or sampans for passengers, and others for 
fishing. All these native craft must push off to a certain 
distance from the land at night, and all are numbered, 
and the passenger-boats licensed, so that passengers may 
embark in safety, the police knowing each boat. Farther 
on, one notices that the houses are mostly occupied by 
Chinese, and along and across this busy street coolies 
are carrying to and from the craft all sorts of goods, 
from bales of cotton to pigs squealing and kicking tied 
up in baskets ; farther on still, are the wharves of the 
various companies running steamers to Macao, Canton, 
and the West River. 

The blue gown is the prevailing colour and costume 
of the better-class native, but amongst the coolies all 
colours are to be found in picturesque confusion. The 
wide straw hats seem to serve as umbrellas to keep off 
either sun or rain. Or again, from the Post Office, get 
on one of the smoothly running electric cars and go 
east past the barracks, and so on till again you are on 
the sea front (one sees many Japanese names on the 
shops here), on past East Point, where is one of the oldest 
Hongs of the colony, built here in the early days, and 
still going strong. 

Here is the Harbour of Refuge, constructed to pro- 
vide shelter for the many native craft. On farther, we 
see to one side the fine racecourse, where at certain times 

5 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

great crowds gather, not only from Hong Kong, Canton, 
but even Shanghai and other ports, sending their racing 
enthusiasts to swell the crowed. Continue on the car and 
we come to the great sugar-mills, and, near by, the New 
Dock, built by one of the great and enterprising firms 
of the Far East. And w^hat an enterprise this is ! — cut 
out of a granite hillside, and, at the time I saw it, near- 
ing completion, with all the latest equipment necessary 
for docking large vessels — another instance of British 
colonial energy. 

Farther on, the car runs along a pretty road by the 
water-side and finally stops at the entrance to the village 
of Sha-kai-wan, which, but a few years ago, was the home 
and headquarters of many of the pirates which infested 
these w^aters. It now has the appearance of a small 
fishing village ; but, personally, I would not like to vouch 
for the strict honesty of all its amphibious-looking inhabi- 
tants. At any rate, it does not call for great imagination 
to fancy them as dressed and armed in old-time style, and 
waiting ready to pounce on any peaceful craft passing by. 

One cannot fail to notice another engineering feat — 
the Peak tramway, which I have heard described as ugly. 
But if one will travel by it, and watch from the car as 
it ascends or descends, he will be rewarded by most 
beautiful glimpses through semi-tropical foliage along 
the hillside or over the harbour. From a station half- 
way up I saw one of the most delightful views. 
6 



CHAPTER II 
NEW AND OLD KOWLOON 

First Experiences of Sketching. 

NEW Kowloon might well be described as the 
military and commercial — and soon will be the 
railway — annex of Hong Kong. This is one 
end of the Canton-Kowloon Railway, now in course of 
construction and intended to be part of a great trunk 
line through China. At Kowloon many of the large 
vessels discharge and take on cargo. From here one 
gets perhaps the most comprehensive view of the Peak 
of Hong Kong and the town of Victoria, with its great 
and busy harbour. Two or three miles off, to the east, 
is the old native city of Kowloon. It lies on the slope 
of the hill, and the walls wind up and along, and are 
well seen from the water. The town has now few in- 
habitants. I should think they have found it more 
profitable to migrate to the New Kowloon, or Hong 
Kong, and trade or work there. Old Kowloon is nearly 
opposite Sha-kai-wan, and its people, for piratical purposes, 
as far as situation goes, may have been, and I believe 
were, brethren in their nefarious trade. 

I believe the former inhabitants of this place were 

7 



CllIXA: ITS MAR\'HL AXD MVSTHRY 

amongst the worst characters oi the district, and such a 
thorn in the side of peace and quietness that a few 
years ago it ended in our countrymen at Hong Kong 
rushing the pUice, turning the people out, and so dis- 
niantHng it that it could no longer be a menace to the 
quiet of our colon)-. 

Xo^^•. as I walked round the walls. I found old iron 
cannon thrown on the ground and many signs of what 
had been ; but looking into the to\\-n I realised that its 
po^\■er to hurt \\-as gone. It is almost deserted, and 
only on the outside of the old walls and nearer the 
water is there a small population left. It is difficult to 
realise that such a pirates' lair could exist in this 
century within sight of one o{ the greatest British 
colonies oi th.e East, Think of this liotbed of crime 
only across the narrow waters from those palatial build- 
ings and comfortable houses, to be seen from their 
^\•indows. One wonders at the patience which allowed it 
to exist so long. Xo wonder it was considered unsafe 
to cross the harbour in a small boat after dark, and 
that there v/ere mysterious disappearances while these 
pirates had a stronghold near by. 

An artist need not be long in finding subjects here, 

or. in fact, throughout China ; but he must be prepared 

to put up with all sorts oi troubles and interruptions, to 

sit or stand in niost uncomfortable positions, and in- 

vaj'iablv with a big crowd round. E\-en in Hono- Kone, 
8 



NEW AND OLD KOWLOON 

a British colony, it is quite rare to see a painter work- 
ing in the open air, and the natives are very curious 
and rather too appreciative. Once I found that certain 
of my spectators wished to approach much nearer than 
was pleasant, and even to stand in front of me. I 
remarked to a friend at dinner that evening that I was 
possessed with a great desire to pull their pigtails, to 
make them move out of my way. He gently re- 
monstrated with me, and said I must be patient. I 
followed his advice and had my reward ; for next day a 
youth, to show his superior agility, attempted to jump 
across in front of my position near the edge of the 
wharf. But, alas ! he reckoned without his host ; for, as 
he jumped, one of my admirers near gripped his pigtail 
and down he came on his back, and was only saved 
from a ducking in the water by being held by his 
queue. I am afraid I could not help joining in the loud 
laughter that followed. 

The Sikh policeman of Hong Kong is a very important 
and stately individual, and one of them, finding me en- 
sconced in a " ricksha " in one of the main streets, con- 
sidered it his duty to take me under his special care. 
He in vain attempted to move the crowd on ; and, though 
it was quite necessary to keep the footpath clear, there 
was no real need for him to start a game of catch-who- 
you-can round my "ricksha." The younger members of the 
crowd in particular much enjoyed the fun of dodging their 

9 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

pursuer ; but, when I remonstrated, the only answer I got 
from the policeman was, " Dey too muchee bobherry my." 
The local press described me as "a man sitting in a 
'ricksha' smoking cigars and attempting to paint the 
Flower Market." The poor painter has much to put up 
with ! 

I cannot finish my notes on Hong Kong without 
referring to the wonderful effects of what are commonly 
known as " mackerel " skies, which are here, I think, 
seen to more perfection than elsewhere, although they 
are the prevailing sky of Southern China, and to see a 
fine sunset from Hong Kong Harbour is something to 
remember all one's life. 

The same may be said of the hospitality of the 
colonists. I shall never forget it. I had not been half- 
an-hour on land before I was taken by my host to the 
Club, and introduced to more than I can remember ; but 
they were all genial and kind, one after another asking 
me to tiffin or dine. I must mention that no doubt I 
owed a great deal of this to my host, one of the best- 
known men in the colony, and also to the fact that 
members of my family have long lived in the Far East. 

My time was too busily occupied for much social 
intercourse. But to those who have time, and like it, 
no place offers more than Hong Kong. I am afraid 
that, should this book fall into the hands of some who 
were my fellow-guests at a tiffin party, they will remark, 



HONG KONG: THE FLOWER MARKET 



NEW AND OLD KOWLOON 

if they remember me at all, that I was not strictly truth- 
ful. I was a stranger to all but my host ; and in con- 
versation one asked me if I were a Member of Parliament, 
and when I denied the soft impeachment and said I was 
only a Scotsman, another said, "Well, are you going 
to write a book?" And to that also I said "No," at 
that time having no such intention. I hope he will 
forgive me for doing so. Everywhere I found kindness. 
Did I wish to sketch from the harbour, a launch was 
at my disposal, and a good tiffin put on board. I had 
only to express a wish to go anywhere, and I was taken 
there. One and all seemed to vie with each other to 
give me a good time, and they succeeded. I went to 
theatres and weddings and to farewell dinners, and to 
tiffins to those about to wed. 

On my return visit I found, as I have said, that the 
delightful home of my friend had been partly destroyed 
by the typhoon; but I was invited to stay at a splendid 
house of one of the most prominent colonists, a house 
famous for its architectural beauty, and its great collec- 
tion of Eastern porcelain, which bids fair to rival the 
greatest. Here I spent Christmas in true British fashion. 



CHAPTER III 
MACAO 

The Old Portuguese Settlement and sometime Home of Camoens. 

" Gem of the Orient, Earth and open Sea — 
Macao: that in thy lap and on thy breast 
Hast gathered beauties all the loveliest 
O'er which the sun smiles in his majesty." 

— BOWRING. 

THE visitor to Hong Kong should not, if time 
allows, fail to visit Macao. The delightful trip 
on one of the well-equipped boats of the Canton 
and Macao Steamboat Company is well worth doing ; 
and Macao, with its history going back to 1557, when 
the Portuguese first founded their settlement (I think 
it is the earliest European settlement in China), is most 
interesting. The Portuguese were allowed at that time 
to build factories, and the Chinese built a wall to exclude 
the barbarians. 

The settlement is on a peninsula on the western side 
of the Canton River, and the city, with its flat-roofed 
houses of southern European character, is very pic- 
turesquely situated. It lies on the level piece of land 
forming the Peninsula, between bold and rocky hills at 

either end rising some 300 feet. 
12 



MACAO 

The Chinese have always (notably in 1862) disputed 
the ownership of this piece of territory, but their authority 
has gradually diminished, and now the place has been 
for some time regarded as a colonial possession by the 
Portuguese. It was early occupied by the Jesuit mis- 
sionaries, who established the grand old cathedral, beauti- 
ful even in its ruin, but still towering up into the sky, 
and sharing with the old castle the domination of the 
town. 

Macao was the centre of a disgraceful and cruel trade 
in coolies, a slave trade of the worst character, from the 
middle of last century till it was abolished in 1874. 
More recently the colonial revenue has been largely 
gained from a tax on the notorious Fan-Tan gambling- 
dens, which in 1872-73 yielded as much as 380,000 dollars 
(Mexican), or close on ;£'35,ooo sterling. These and still 
worse places are largely patronised by the Chinese and 
Macoese (among whom half-breeds largely predominate), 
and one is lost in amazement at the action of a European 
nation in upholding such things and pandering to the 
worst side of the Chinese character. But, for all this, 
Macao is a fair place to look at and dream over; and 
it is a more pleasant task to let one's thoughts go back 
to days when, in 1568, Louis de Camoens, prince of poets 
of his time, was exiled here as Portuguese Governor of 
the Fort, for writing a satire on the Portuguese officials 
at Goa, exposing their corruption. His memory is kept 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

green by the grotto which still bears his name, and here 
he is said to have composed at least part of his " Lusiad " 
(the national epic of Portugal), and probably in this 
peaceful retreat he passed the happiest time of his 
adventurous life. 

" There never fails, intent on treacherous ends, 
Some lurking foe to those whom Heaven befriends." ^ 

Nearly all the outer end of the Peninsula and close to 
the river rises a small and rocky tree-covered hill, and 
on this is situated the very beautiful Fisherman's Temple, 
as dainty and picturesque a group of buildings, small 
though they are, as I saw anywhere in the East. My 
guide induced me to visit the Fan-Tan gambling-houses, 
the outsides of which are ornamental in a tawdry way ; 
the insides did not appeal to me, being rather dull and 
dirty. We were taken upstairs, where, round a railed 
opening in the floor, one looked down on the gaming-table; 
but the game did not appear to me to have any charm. 
We also looked in at a Chinese theatre, where one of 
their everlasting plays was in progress. I cannot say 
that there was any resemblance to Drury Lane. There 
was no scenery ; the actors (there are no actresses, though 
the men make up very well as women) wear cheap but 
very gaudy costumes, and change their dresses on the 
stage ; all the hangers on, such as we might term scene- 
shifters, and the like, stood about the stage and watched 

» " The Lusiad." 



A STREET IN MACAO 



MACAO 

the performance, which was so weird I cannot find words 
to describe it. It largely consisted of the performers 
yelling at each other in very high-pitched falsetto voices 
(caterwauling is the only noise I can liken it to), waving 
their arms and walking up and down — the so-called 
band adding to the din, cymbals, drums, and sort of 
coach -horn, &c., making every few minutes a great 
banging — then a sudden hush, after which off they 
would start again. 

The men who take women's parts are raised on false 
wooden feet, made quite small to give the appearance 
of the small, bound feet of the women ; their baggy trousers 
are tied in at the ankle. The audience, although watching 
intently, seem moved very little, and only signify their 
approval slightly. There is no enthusiastic applause as 
with us, though there is occasionally slight laughter. 

While here I visited a charming Chinese residence. 
The owner was from home, but I was most courteously 
shown over it by his servants. The gardens were very 
pretty — approached through quaintly shaped doorways in 
the walls, and intersected by pathways lined by ornamental 
stone-work and plants and flowers — sheets of water, with 
the usual bridges leading to pavilions on islands, making 
the whole very attractive. The residential part of the 
house was very well furnished with fine Cantonese black 
wood and many pieces of beautiful porcelain. 

The No. I Boy brought out as a great treasure for 

15 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

my inspection a book of photographs of London, asking 
me if I knew these places ; and on my saying so, I 
was asked by my interpreter if I would explain them. 
This I did, to their great delight. They were greatly 
struck by St. Paul's, which I described to them as'^our 
Chief Joss-House, and with the idea of the railways 
which went under the houses and streets. 



i6. 



NJ':AR CANTON: FISHING-BOATS OX THE 
PEARL RIVER 



CHAPTER IV 

CANTON— THE PEARL RIVER 

Arrival and Description of the City and the River — Pawnshops — Boat Life — 
Streets and Shopping. 

I WAS lucky enough, in going to Canton, to have the 
escort of a Hong Kong friend who knew his way, 
and also fortunate in meeting, on board the boat, 
a naval commander and his wife who were fellow- 
passengers from England and going up to enjoy the 
hospitality of the same friends I was to stay with. 
This is the sort of good-fellowship which reigns in the 
East. It is open house to all travellers and a most 
hearty welcome. During my stay with these friends, 
another gentleman and shipmate visited them ; and in 
their company, and under the escort of the daughter of 
the Consul-General, I visited many of the shops and 
sights, and was initiated into the Eastern methods of 
making a bargain. This seemed to me to consist in 
offering about a third of the sum asked and gradually 
rising to about half, then attempting to leave the shop, 
and often being followed into the street by the trades- 
man, who did not wish to lose a customer. 

I reached Canton in the early part of a beautiful 

B 17 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

morning, and at dawn I found we were passing along 
tlie quiet waters, between fertile shores with distant hills 
looming up in tender pearly colour. Well may this be 
called the Pearl River ! By-and-by, along the bank we 
could discern the rough huts of the fisher-folk, built up 
out of the water on poles. These people, doubtless, were 
pirates not very long ago, and would be so still if 
opportunity allowed. 

Gradually we neared Canton, and began to see more 
and more boats, until the water was full of them and 
there seemed hardly room for us to get through. The 
city covers about 68 square miles, a great part of this 
being within the walls, which are 20 feet thick and rise 
to a height of 25 feet. On three sides this wall is still 
further protected by a ditch filled with water by the 
rising tide, but at low tide containing nothing but 
revolting filth. 

There are twelve outer gates and two water gates, 
the latter allowing boats to pass from east to west 
across the new city. All gates are shut about sundown. 
The streets are long, winding, and ver)' narrow, the 
houses rarely more than two storeys in height. 

The Buddhist priests and nuns, about 2000, out- 
number any other sect. There is also a Mahommedan 
mosque with a tall tower. 

The great guilds of China are strong in Canton, and 

there are many halls belonging to, and used by, these 
18 



CANTON 

bodies, who seem to have great power to sway the 
opinion of the people ; as, for instance, at the time of 
my last visit to Canton, a Chinese having been found 
dead on a steamboat belonging to a British firm, and 
certified by a doctor to have died from natural causes, 
there was a great ado made about the matter, many 
meetings were held at the guild-halls, and feeling ran 
strong against the British. 

Pawnshops in China are most extensive and remark- 
able institutions. They are of three classes. The first 
are owned by wealthy companies, and their places of 
business are well and strongly built, and, with the ex- 
ception of the pagodas, are the loftiest buildings in 
Canton. Tall square blocks, they remind one of some 
of our old border keeps. They have windows with iron 
shutters. The entrance doors are also of iron, the base- 
ment forming the offices for business, while the upper 
floors are for storage. 

Pawnshops of the second class are also run by joint- 
stock companies, while those of the third are in some 
instances conducted by policemen and yamen-runners, and 
even by wealthy convicts. Interest is mostly excessive, 
with perhaps a reduction in winter-time to enable the poorer 
people to redeem their warm clothing in cold weather. 
Pawnbrokers' licences are very expensive, especially those 
of the second class. Much of the proceeds is appropriated 
by the officials, who are notorious throughout the empire 

19 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

for their grasping ways. These institutions are largely 
used to obtain the means to celebrate marriages and 
funerals. On both of these events the Chinese, like the 
Scotch, spend too much money. 

The boat life of China, and of Canton in particular, is 
a thing by itself; nowhere else is it to be found to the 
same extent ; nowhere else can be seen thousands of 
craft massed together, seething as it were, and suddenly 
bursting into life and movement. 

What a marvellous sight it was ! to see the swarms 
of people, men, women and children, the boats, big junks 
with their sterns high up, or tiny little sampans, forming 
the homes in which they are born, live and die — some not 
even leavins: them to be buried on land, but findingf their 
last resting-place in the depths below. One sees this mass 
of boats spreading far and near ; covered in with all sorts 
of material, from the well-fitted hood, part of which slides 
along and makes further shelter, to the makeshift bits of 
matting pulled over some bent cane ; they all seem quiet 
— then you suddenly see an oar moved, or a mast and sail 
raised, and a movement begins as that boat pushes its way 
out of the crowd, often accompanied by much loud talk, 
before it gets into the open channel and goes away on its 
journey. All native boats in the East have eyes painted 
on them, the Chinese argument being — 

*' S'pose no got eye, no can see, 
S'pose no can see, no can walkee." 
20 



CANTON RIVER 

The inhabitants of these boats are born, Hve, and die in them. 



CANTON 

Living on the foreign settlement, the Shameen at 
Canton — which originally was little else than a mud-flat, 
and is now a beautifully laid out garden-like residential 
town, with its turfed roads and paved walks, tennis grounds 
overhung and shaded by fine banyan trees — you might, but 
for looking out on the river with its boat life, think you 
were in Europe. But cross the island and look over the 
creek at the other side, at the native city, and you realise 
that here is one of the many densely populated cities of 
China. You note the crowds of boats again, with produce 
of all kinds, propelled by men, women, and children ; some 
by means of stern paddle-wheels, which are acted on by 
a sort of treadmill which the coolies walk on ; some by 
the single oar; and some of the small ones even by the 
foot, the coolie sitting down and gripping the oar with 
his toes, as we would with our hands. These latter boats 
are the fastest, and have, I believe, been much used for 
letter-carrying. 

Cross the English Bridge and you are in Canton, the 
most Chinese city of Southern China ; penetrate into those 
picturesque streets, overhung by wonderful and grotesque 
signs, almost covered in overhead by matting and lattice- 
work ; narrow and dimly lighted, with damp and slippery 
pavements and a jostling, hurrying, noisy crowd, all 
intent on their business, but nevertheless with time to 
cast a glance, sometimes suspicious, but mostly of amuse- 
ment, at the oddly clothed foreigner. 

B 2 21 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

But be careful how you go, for (if without a guide) a 
few minutes' walk is so confusing you will be completely 
lost. Here, without doubt, are the most picturesque 
streets in the world, and in time to come, when the people 
have grown less suspicious of foreigners, some able brush 
will show this to be so ; but I could not put an easel 
up in the streets, and was warned not to collect a 
crowd, as there was considerable feeling against the 
British at that time. 

With difficulty we made our way about the various 
streets, seeing the temples and curious sights, and visiting 
the shops, where gorgeous embroidered vestments were 
for sale, and where they do the delicate decoration of 
silverwork by inlaying with the blue feather of the 
kingfisher. 

How quaint it all is, and how very different from 
anything else in the world ! 

You go into a shop, and the doors or gates are 
closed after you, and you wonder what will happen 
next. All that does happen is that nimble boys begin 
to show you goods you long to possess. Maybe a cup 
of tea is offered, green, without sugar or milk ; and 
although doubtful of the water, one takes it. 

There is much bargaining and haggling. No one 
thinks of giving the price asked, and the Chinese ap- 
preciate one who knows how to drive what seems a 
hard bargain. 



CANTON 

A General View — also of the Flowery Pagoda — -from the Walls 
near the Five-Storied Pagoda. 



CHAPTER V 

CANTON FROM THE WALLS 

City of the Dead Temples — British Yamen — Canton Water — My First 
Attempt to Paint in a Village. 

GOING right across the city — a long walk on 
foot and mostly done in chairs carried by 
four coolies, who shout and call to clear 
the way, and when met by another chair push in 
against a shop to allow passage — the traveller reaches 
the city wall, and by following it comes to the well- 
known five-storied Pagoda, near which is the best and 
most complete view of Canton, with the Flowery Pagoda 
rising out of it, whilst here and there one sees those 
square tower-like buildings, the pawnshops. And a 
lovely view it is ! Looking over this one cannot quite 
think of the overcrowding, the squalor, the dirt, which 
exists below ; here we look among trees over the roofs 
of temples, with God's sky above, and nothing but 
brilliant sunlight and beauty around. 

It is curious that the Chinese think it necessary to 
attempt to repair the old walls, and even to renew the 
roofs over the ancient guns, as if they were of any use — 
old iron cannon lying rusting on the ground — a great 

23 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

and sufficient protection against an enemy in olden 
times, but of no use now. 

On looking over the hilly country which lies out- 
side this part of the city wall, I saw that it was one 
vast cemetery — hundreds, thousands of small stones 
marking the last resting-place of past generations of 
Cantonese. Here and there I could discern a more 
pretentious monument, mostly in semi-circular form, 
denoting the grave of a dead notability. A remarkable 
place is the City of the Dead. It is a series of temples 
and mausoleums, where those who can afford it lay 
their dead in wondrous coffins, sometimes enamelled and 
decorated, and they are left here until the soothsayer, 
or fortune-teller, declares where and when they shall be 
finally laid to rest. I am inclined to think that the 
wealth of the relative must be the chief thing which 
determines the length of time the coffin shall remain in 
these sacred precincts. 

I saw a funeral procession on its way here ; there 
were various articles of food fastened to the coffin. A 
live cock was one, and, by his lusty crowing, did not 
seem at all disturbed at his precarious position. 

Another interesting place is the Temple ot Five 

Hundred Genii. At the gates are great carved-stone 

josses guarding the entrance, which is of considerable 

extent. In the central or main hall five hundred saints 

or genii are placed in rows, and in front of each is 
24 



CANTON FROM THE WALLS 

placed the small porcelain, and sometimes bronze, urn 
in which those who come to " chin-chin " their par- 
ticular joss put the burning joss-sticks. The gods 
themselves are wonderfully varied in character, and 
apparently, from the number of joss-sticks in front of 
certain of them, some are greatly favoured beyond others. 
They are all lavishly gilded, some quite freshly gilt, 
others distinctly showing neglect — these, I suppose, being 
gods to whom there is no necessity for appeal, and 
therefore no call for devout worshippers to show their 
devotion by gilding. One in particular is pointed out 
to foreigners, Marco Polo ; if anything like this image, 
he was no beauty, though a great traveller. 

Almost in the centre of the city stands the old 
British Yamen, once the house of a great Cantonese 
mandarin. When the British took Canton, they annexed 
this beautiful place as the residence for their repre- 
sentative, and for many years it was occupied by our 
Consul and his staff. But these officials now live in 
modern houses built on the Shameen, and the old Yamen 
is the house of Consular students sent here to study the 
Chinese language. I went with a friend to call on 
them one Sunday, and was greatly taken with the quiet 
beauty of the place ; the grounds are studded with fine 
trees, and paved walks and terraces — it is like an 
oasis set in the midst of dirty, noisy Canton. The 
students, whom we wanted to see, were not at home ; 

25 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

but of course we were hospitably invited to go inside 
and have a cooling drink, and wait for their arrival. 
So we sat on the terrace, smoking and chatting, when 
along the entrance-way tore some of the roughest-look- 
ing ponies I have seen. The riders were our friends — 
returning, to judge by the mud-bespattered appearance 
of horses and men, from a long and rough ride. The 
ponies were small, many-coloured and undipped ; long 
manes and tails and varied accoutrements giving the 
whole quite a wild look as they galloped into this 
secluded garden. 

The water at Canton is of a very distinctive character, 
as was made apparent to me one day when painting a 
picturesque group of buildings, a Lekin Station, from 
across Defence Creek. An elderly Chinese came along 
and was much interested in my work, looking at it from 
the back and each side, and attempting to feel it with 
a long finger-nail. He ultimately asked me what I was 
painting it with ; and as I did not at once reply, he picked 
one of my brushes out of the water-ball, and putting 
it to his nose smelt it and said, " Ah ! blong all same 
Canton water." 

My first nights here were somewhat disturbed by the 

weird noises which came from the Native City, it being 

just after China New Year — the queer sound of a native 

pipe, the booming of a drum, or tom-tom, and the calls 

of the watch on our own side ; all added to the busy 
26 



CANTON FROM THE WALLS 

activity of mosquitoes buzzing round my net, and occa- 
sionally making their way in. I felt I was in a country 
such as there is not elsewhere to be found. 

I had a look at the little Macao Fort, which was 
stormed and taken by the British in past times ; it seems 
but a poor little place now. 

I went on a launch one day with a young friend some 
distance up river above Canton, landing at a small 
village, which I thought might yield artistic tribute ; we 
were immediately surrounded by the villagers, who 
probably did not often see foreigners. After making our 
way through various temples, of no particular distinction, 
and going through a doorway in the wall, we came on a 
quaint little village street, quite narrow and lined with 
stalls and shops, and full of brilliant colour. I at once 
resolved to get a sketch of it, and took my position in 
a corner, under a wall and slightly raised ; the crowd 
increased, and so did the noise, and when I was seen 
to open my colour-box it became in that crowd a case of 
" might was right." They fought and pushed and pulled 
to get a front place ; the noise was deafening, but I sat 
there solidly for two hours, with my friend by my side 
trying to keep them from quite overwhelming me. Then 
I gave in and made a move to go, but was given to under- 
stand that they wanted to see what I had done ; so my 
sketch was passed round and carefully examined, and 

then handed back to me, many of the elders bowing 

27 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

graciously to signify their approval ; and we returned to 
our boat escorted by the whole population. My friend 
remarked that, if they had known in time, they would 
probably have arranged things better and sold the front 
places to the highest bidder. 

On the rivers around Canton are many " duckeries." 
An old junk, with wood platforms projecting out and 
afloat on the water, forms the house of the duck-keeper 
and his family, and of the ducks, which are bred in large 
numbers ; they live on the river in this manner, and are 
IDartly fed there, but also are put ashore at suitable places 
for feeding, and are like a regiment of soldiers under 
command of an officer. The duck-keeper directs opera- 
tions with a long slender pole. I have eaten Chinese 
duck, but I do not wish for any more. 



28 



CHAPTER VI 

SHANGHAI 

Arrival at Woosung — Up River — The Bund — Nanking Road — The Bubbling Well — 
The Departure from China of Sir Robert Hart. 

THE approach to Shanghai from the sea offers a 
great contrast to that at Hong Kong. Here no 
towering Peak greets the traveller's eye ; but, 
as the ship enters the mouth of the Whangpoo at 
Woo-sung (the Pilot Station), twelve miles from the city, 
the nearness of the great trading centre of the Far East 
is suggested by the large numbers of steam-craft, tugs, 
and dredgers interspersed with numerous native boats of 
quaint design, large and small, plying busily hither and 
thither. 

The water-way is here a mile or more in width, 
bordered by a flat landscape, almost Dutch in character 
though not in colour. The course of the river has been 
altered considerably from time to time, by Nature and 
man, and the hard task of keeping open this great com- 
mercial highway is the duty of European conservators, 
who have their hands full. 

Off Woosung the great liners lie anchored, until 

lightened of part of their cargo, that they may pass up 

29 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

the river, and one may see the white hull of an Empress, 
or the dark mass of the P. & O. or German mails, or 
the blue funnels of a Holt cargo steamer. Here pas- 
sengers are transferred to the launches waiting to take 
them up to Shanghai, on the last stage of their long 
journey. The yellow waters of the Whangpoo run swiftly, 
and this, added to the strong tide, makes navigation no 
easy matter. 

Soon we began to see buildings of European character, 
plain and solid, and factories with tall chimneys ; we 
could read the names of European commercial firms ; and 
when we got up as far as Hongkew we realised that 
indeed we had reached the commercial metropolis of the 
Far East, reminding us of some of our ports at home 
in the similarity of the river approach and traffic. 

I was met on landing at the wharf by my relatives, 
and, if it had not been for the number of coolies and 
rickshas, could almost imagine myself at home ; but 
as I was driven away along the fine Bund, the chief 
thoroughfare facing the river, on which are all the 
finest commercial buildings, banks, and the fine Shanghai 
Club, I soon saw evidence of the mixed nature of the 
population. 

There is no sharp line of demarcation in the European 

settlement of Shanghai between the streets inhabited by 

the Chinese and those occupied by Europeans ; the houses 

in the Nankin Road, for instance, changing their 

30 



SHANGHAI 

character as one proceeds, although the native city is 
and always has been walled in and quite separate from 
the foreign settlement. 

The native-built houses usually differ from those built 
by Europeans, in being highly ornate and more cheaply 
and slightly constructed. The shop-signs in the Nankin 
and Foochow Roads and other thoroughfares are wonder- 
fully picturesque in red, gold, and other colours, and of 
all shapes and sizes. Passing along, one notices crowds 
at the upper windows, drinking tea and smoking ; while 
in the street, side by side with the fine equipage of the 
foreign merchant, may be seen the wheelbarrow, pushed 
by the coolie in scanty attire, carrying perhaps a whole 
family; a single passenger must be tilted to one side, to 
keep the barrow balanced. A wonderful medley of East 
and West ! rickshas speeding along, bicycles ridden 
by natives and foreigners, and even the latest in motor 
cars, for which there must be a great future. The Chinese 
are taking up motors ; they love speed, so the motor 
suits them ; but as yet they can only use a motor in the 
foreign settlement where are roads fit to drive on. I have 
heard that on first seeing a motor car a Chinaman re- 
marked : " What thing ! No pushee, no pullee, go like 
hellee ! Hi yah ! " 

No one can visit Shanghai without realising that it 
is destined to be of still greater importance when it 
becomes the centre, as it soon must, of a large 

31 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

railway traffic, as well as being what it is now, a great 
seaport. 

The more central part of the settlements is the most 
densely populated, and the land very valuable in all the 
Concessions, the British and American being under one 
Council. The residential quarter, much as at home, has 
been gradually pushed out farther and farther from the 
centre of the city. 

The American Concession of Hongkew is reached by 
crossing the new iron bridge over the Soochow Creek, 
and has a long and valuable frontage on the Whangpoo 
River, where large "godowns" (warehouses) and wharves, 
shipbuilding and engineering yards, are springing up on 
every side. Lying back from the river is a large resi- 
dential quarter. In the opposite direction by the Nankin 
Road one reaches the fine Racecourse and Recreation 
Ground, which only a few years ago was open fields. 
Here the foreign residents of sporting proclivities formerly 
held their " paper-hunts." They are obliged to go farther 
afield now ; but with commendable foresight this fine 
open space was rescued from the hands of the builder, 
and thus preserved for future generations. Beyond the 
Racecourse is the Bubbling Well Road, so called from 
the famous well at the farther end of it. As to this, 
Mr. J. R. Chitty, in his "Things Seen in China," gives 
an interesting story told by a Chinese Amah. '* A certain 

young woman of low but wealthy parentage having 
32 



SHANGHAI 

* married well ' from the social standpoint, and attained 
apparently to a somewhat high standard of affection for 
her elderly husband, found herself threatened with divorce, 
owing to her childless condition. Her lord having given 
her but one more calendar year to fulfil the obligation 
of presenting him with the necessary son, she wandered 
forth alone to bewail her fate; for the equivalent of 
perpetual * old maidhood ' lay before her, and she was 
but twenty-three years old, though married eight years. 
She sat by the well and wept to all her gods, her tears 
falling into the little streamlet. Presently the silent 
waters began to bubble furiously ; whereupon she rose 
up, and, adjourning to the nearest shrine, told a priest 
the story, and vowed that a proper joss-house should be 
built as near the spot as possible, if a son was born within 
a twelvemonth. It fell out as she desired, and the joss- 
house was built. The proof remains in the fact that 
the well still bubbles ! " 

This is one of the chief boulevards used by the foreign 
residents in the hot summer evenings for driving, and 
also by the well-to-do Chinamen, who have not been 
against taking advantage of some of the luxuries of the 
Westerners ; for among the stream of carriages on this 
favourite road one can see in a well-built and equipped 
open carriage, with mafoos (coachmen) uniformed in white 
linen and with a red tassel on their hats, probably three 
or four solemn-looking Chinese (they often more than 

c 33 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

fill the carriage) — or, again, a young spark in his high 
dog-cart driving his fast pony, his mafoo standing or 
sitting behind. I noticed that most of the Chinese of 
this class wore Panama hats — the only article of apparel 
in any way approaching our own, but usually set on 
the head with a knowing tip to the side, and part of the 
brim turned down. 

The Chinese favour very fast ponies ; and so fast do 
they drive that the action, being forced, becomes more 
what we know as "pacing" than trotting. Their main 
idea is to pass anything else on the road. 

The houses round here are well built, of European 
character, and often of striking architecture, varying from 
the more ordinary solid red brick edifice with spacious 
verandahs, to the black and white old English style, 
with one or two of even greater pretensions and almost 
palatial in size. They stand in considerable grounds, 
with many trees, and are altogether delightful residences, 
from which (I can testify) is dispensed lavish hospitality. 
These are the homes of the well-to-do merchants ; but 
here and there we find that a wealthy Chinese has 
stepped in and purchased one, and lives under European 
rule, and pays his rates and taxes like any other good 
citizen. 

Good services of electric trams connect up this and 
the other suburbs with the central part. The foreigner 
has pushed even across the big yellow Wangpoo River 
34 



SHANGHAI 

and built many factories, engineering and other works 
on the farther bank ; and from the Bund, which is the 
hub of Shanghai, constant intercourse with this quarter 
is kept up by numerous steam-launches. On this part 
of the river are anchored many ships large and small, 
with one or two gunboats of the Western powers always 
on guard, and with a few small Chinese war-vessels 
mostly employed in the Customs Service. 

Speaking of the latter service, I had the good fortune, 
during my stay in Shanghai, to see a most touching scene 
which I should have been sorry to miss : this was nothing 
less than the departure of that grand old man of China, 
Sir Robert Hart, whose name must ever be indissolubly 
connected with the history of that great empire, for which 
he has done so much. A notable scene it was, not from 
its pomp or ceremony, but rather from the simplicity of 
it all. It impressed one with the great respect in which 
their chief was held by all ranks of the service over 
which he presided. 

The Chinese love fire-works, and use them on every 
possible occasion ; and not being allowed to do so on 
land in a foreign settlement, they had secured some junks 
near by, and at the time of departure sent forth volleys 
of banging crackers, wheels, rockets, and the like, with 
a prodigious noise, amidst which the launch moved off. 
So departed from China one of the greatest Englishmen 
of our time. Long may he enjoy his well-earned rest. 

35 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

There is almost as much contrast between East -and 
West on the river, as on land. Off the native city lie 
scores of junks, of all kinds, some from Ningpo, with 
their very high sterns where the families on board live : 
I say families advisedly, because in many cases there 
are several generations on board. Grotesque painting 
decorates the outside, gaily coloured pictures of wondrous 
animals in all colours. Then there are the large junks 
which carry passengers to the various rivers of this part. 
There are other boats which seem past moving, and simply 
serve as homes for those on board ; and there they lie, 
side by side, the population passing from one to the 
other. They almost seem like an extension of the city 
itself, so thick are they. And, oh ! the filth and dirt, the 
garbage of all kinds ! The measly looking cur dogs 
prowl about the water-side and among the boats, picking 
up what they can. 



36 



SHANGHAI: THE NEW MALOO, NATIVE 
CITY 



CHAPTER VII 

SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY 

Its Entrance and Streets — The New Maloo — The Old Tea House and its Legend — 
The Piece-Goods Temple — Difficulties of Painting — My Sedan Chair — 
Police Interference — "You wanchee one Licence" — Permit Obtained — My 
Work at a China Shop and at the Old Tea House. 

THE Native City is reached by passing through the 
French Concession. It forms as complete a con- 
trast to the European Settlement as can well 
be imagined. On approaching the boundary between 
the two, we notice that the houses diminish in size 
and importance, and are much more Chinese in style ; 
but at the dirty little creek which forms the real 
boundary line this creek sweeps right round the original 
Settlement to the Soochow Creek, and formed at that 
time a natural means of defence which is still known as 
Defence Creek. Along this creek there are many small 
shops for the sale of all sorts of hardware, and many a 
good old bronze has been picked up here. We then 
reach the old walls of the Native City. Huddled against 
them are dirty native houses, booths, and stalls, and on 
crossing the bridge and entering the gate we meet with 
perhaps the greatest contrast in all China. 

Within a few hundred yards of these modern 
C2 37 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

buildings, constructed according to all the latest ideas 
of civilisation, we are at once carried back to the condi- 
tions prevailing in the Middle Ages in our own country. 

Plunging into a low, dark, and evil-smelling tunnel, 
or passage, through the wall, we see the old gates fitted 
with immense wooden bars for closing them at night. 
Beggars are everywhere, cripples with grotesque and 
unusual deformities, and other sufferers. The air is filled 
with the loud cries of the small huckster announcing 
the nature of his wares. 

Quaint little shops line the narrow passages, whose 
greasy pavement exhales the rich, close, and altogether 
peculiar odour so familiar to all old residents in the 
Celestial Empire. A few more narrow streets and we 
come to the New Maloo, so called, of greater width — and, 
at any rate, a potential carriage road, if indeed a carriage 
could reach it, though at present this is quite out of 
the question. Leaving this picturesque street with its 
quaint signs, busy shops, and crowds of people, one 
dives once more through intricate passages and emerges 
at the Bird Market, there to be deafened by the cease- 
less songs of the birds, the shouts of the salesmen and 
their customers. Near at hand, surrounded by water, 
stands the Old Tea House, famous as the original from 
which the inspiration was taken for the design on the 
willow-pattern plate. Here are bridges of zig-zag pattern 
leading to the beautiful old building, with its many 
38 



SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY 

gables and quaint windows of oyster shell, built on piles 
and tilted considerably out of the perpendicular. One 
can see it all on the old blue plates. 

Legend of the Willow Pattern 

{From '■'■How to Know Old China ") 

" Koong-Shee was the daughter of a wealthy man- 
darin, and loved Chang, her father's secretary. The 
mandarin, who wished his daughter to marry a wealthy 
suitor, forbade the marriage, and shut his daughter in 
an apartment on the terrace of the house which is seen 
in the pattern to the left of the temple. From her 
prison Koong-Shee watched ' the willow-tree blossom,' 
and wrote poems in which she expressed her ardent 
longings to be free ere the peach bloomed. Chang 
managed to communicate with her by means of a 
writing enclosed in a small cocoanut-shell, which was 
attached to a tiny sail, and Koong-Shee replied in these 
words, * Do not wise husbandmen gather the fruits they 
fear will be stolen ? ' and sent them in a boat to her lover. 

" Chang, by means of a disguise, entered the man- 
darin's garden and succeeded in carrying off Koong-Shee. 
The three figures on the bridge represent Koong-Shee 
with a distaff, Chang carrying a box of jewels, and the 
mandarin following with a whip. 

" The lovers escaped, and * lived happily ever after ' in 

39 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Chang's house on a distant island until, after many years, 
the outraged wealthy suitor found them out, and burnt 
their house, when, from the ashes of the bamboo grove, 
their two spirits rose, phoenix-like, in the form of two 
doves." 

These bridges are lined with people in indolent atti- 
tudes sunning themselves, many of them having birds 
in cages, or tethered to sticks or their wrists. How the 
Chinaman loves a bird ! and how keen is the competition 
to obtain good songsters, which fetch high prices ! To this 
quaint and beautiful place he brings his pets, and stands 
with one, two, or even three cages, holding them in turn 
out over the water in the sunshine ; listening intently, and 
with evident delight, to their music. The "yellow eye- 
brow " thrush is the chief favourite : it has a low and 
mellow note and fetches $i or $1.50, cage and all; larks 
also are sometimes on sale. The scene inside the Old Tea 
House is a busy one; crowds drinking tea, smoking, gossip- 
ing, and transacting business. It seems to me that from 
this little spot alone, one could form a tolerably correct 
conception of the Chinese character — lovers of peace 
and beauty, and withal industrious and keen in business. 
Such in a nutshell is my estimate of the qualities pos- 
sessed by the Chinese, qualities indeed of which any 
nation might be proud, and without which any people 
must soon degenerate. 

With its great roofs turned up at the corners, the 
40 



SHANGHAI: THE PIECE-GOODS TEMPLE, 
CITY WALL 



SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY 

" Piece-Goods Temple " (so called because it is largely used 
by the Chinese merchants who deal in Manchester piece- 
goods) on the City Wall is a fine specimen of the archi- 
tecture of Southern China. It also has oyster-shell windows 
and woodwork framing of most quaint design, the centre 
of each casement having a small square of glass, thus 
increasing the dim light admitted by the oyster shells. 

I have heard travellers say that there is nothing to see 
in the Native City of Shanghai. All I can say is that 
such people must be entirely lacking in appreciation of 
things quaint and beautiful. The few streets and build- 
ings in the Native City which I have mentioned are in 
themselves worth a long journey, so intensely interesting 
and peculiarly characteristic are they. 

My readers can well imagine that it was not an easy 
task to paint in such surroundings, and at the outset I 
must own that I met with considerable difficulty. With 
the aid of my friends I had a Sedan chair, so constructed 
that I could get shelter from the sun and at the same time 
light for my work. It was raised so that I could, from my 
seat, see over the heads of the people who were sure to 
gather round. I had this conveyed to the New Maloo, and 
arranged for it to be stored in a temple near by when I 
was not at work. 

No sooner had I started painting than my troubles 
began. The crowd collected ; and, in spite of the efforts of 
my boy and various followers to keep them at a distance, 

41 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

their curiosity was too great to be restrained. " What is 
this foreign devil doing? Why does he sit in a chair 
draped in white?" (the colour of mourning). I had all 
unconsciously used white calico to drape my chair, for- 
getting that, here, white was a sign of mourning; but, if 
they supposed there was a corpse inside, they must soon 
have found it was a fairly lively one. 

Soon after this a native policeman in quaint attire came 
by, and, pushing the crowd aside, carefully scrutinised the 
drawing I was doing. He marched off with an air of great 
importance, returned in a little while with a comrade, and 
both repeated the performance ; then after further conversa- 
tion with my retainers they went away. 

I went on quietly with my work, and soon found that 
when the crowd could see the picture growing, and that 
it portrayed the scene in front of them, they became 
highly interested. On my return, however, to the same 
spot next morning, I had hardly started to work when the 
guardians of the peace again made their appearance. Their 
leader this time had silver buttons, and was accompanied 
by his underlings, and it needed little observation to see 
that a crisis in my fortunes was at hand. Accordingly I 
put on my best expression and endeavoured to smile as 
sweetly as possible at them, and told my boy to do the 
same. 

Mr. Silver-buttons approached me politely, the crowd 

readily making way for him. Looking at my work with 

42 



SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY 

a critical air, he made remarks which, of course, I could not 
in the least understand ; so I called my boy and asked him 
to take the gentleman aside so that he should not obstruct 
the view, and to talk to him as long as he liked. Once 
more I was left in peace to work on till my accustomed 
hour. 

That night I said to my boy, "What thing in city, 
boy?" He replied, "Policeman he say, you wanchee 
makee map in city, you wanchee one licence." 

A talk with my friends resulted in my return to the 
same spot next day, but accompanied by a gentleman 
with more knowledge of the Chinese than I then 
possessed. I had hardly begun work when a most 
important functionary, this time with gold buttons, 
arrived with Mr. Silver-buttons in attendance and many 
other satellites, and again the same performance was 
enacted. 

My friend now took the field, and, drawing them to 
one side, a great discussion ensued. For two hours 
they kept up their discourse, while I worked on peacefully, 
smiling at my crowd, and taking care they should 
occasionally see what I was doing. I think it was quite 
a toss-up which group held the more important position. 
I wished the conversationalists to do so, and I think in 
this they succeeded. When I left the city that evening, 
it was with the knowledge that, if my work was to go 
on, I must obtain official permission from the city 

43 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

authorities. My doubts as to the possibility of this 
were soon set at rest by a letter kindly written by an 
influential Chinese gentleman to the city officials, to 
whose bureau I made my way. I was most politely 
received, and conducted from seat to seat, and from room 
to room, until ushered into the presence of the chief man 
himself. After much discussion between him and my 
interpreter I was informed to my great satisfaction that 
I could sketch where I wished, on condition I informed 
the police in what part of the city I wished to work, 
so that they might send a guard for my protection. 
Such attention I had not expected, and my grateful 
thanks are due to the authorities for looking after me 
so well. 

Meantime I had the covering of my chair altered, 
replacing the white by a less-noticeable dark blue. I 
then had it moved to a fresh place, in the New Maloo, 
just outside a large china shop, the owner of which 
began to remonstrate with my boy when he saw the crowd 
gathering round, thinking no doubt that his business 
would be likely to suffer. At that moment my guard 
of police arrived on the scene, and my boy informed 
them of the shopkeeper's objections. The only answer 
vouchsafed by the police was promptly to run him into 
his own shop, where he was told to stay. 

When painting the Old Tea House, I had to place my 
chair close to the water's edge so that no one could get 
44 



SHANGHAI: NATIVE CITY 

This old Tea- House is said to be the origin of the Willow 
Pattern Plate. 



SHANGHAI NATIVE CITY 

in front ; but the crowd quite blocked the narrow street 
behind me. On my last day in this place, a letter was 
handed to me by my "boy," having the usual red band 
across it, and written in Chinese. When I asked him 
what it meant, he said, " Master, that shopman behind 
you, he talkee my you have spoilee his pidgin" (pigeon 
English for "business"). I said, "How much, boy?" 
" One dollar, master," was the reply. 

That shopman was wise ; he made no further bother, 
and got his money. But it was with a sigh of relief 
that I finished my work here ; the heat was very great, 
and the smells very bad, while amongst the crowds who 
daily assembled round me were often most loathsome 
creatures — many times I would look up from my work, 
to see perhaps a man with smallpox sores. Then the 
dirtiness of some of them ! My friends used to laugh, 
as they saw me, before starting for the Native City, 
sprinkle myself plentifully with Keating's Powder ; but it 
was necessary. 



45 



CHAPTER VIII 

SHANGHAI {co7itmued) 

Drive to Loongwha — The Temples — Tea on a Grave — Objectionable Practice of 
Burial — Opium — Public Burning of the Fittings of an Opium Den — Prisoners 
in the Cangue — A Hailstorm. 

A PLEASANT drive, and one often taken by 
visitors, is by the Bubbling Well Road or 
through the French Settlement, and across the 
Sicawai Creek past the Arsenal to Loongwha, where 
there is a fine pagoda and large temples. The latter 
show in a remarkable manner what I would call the 
roof architecture of Southern China. The ridges stand 
up above the tiling, and are most profusely decorated 
with openwork carving, &c. ; the front temple in this 
case showing in the centre the two fish, emblem of 
plenty, and on the other side the dragon, and at the 
ends swans. The corners are most gracefully curved, 
and the points carried up high in a striking and 
quaint manner, giving most beautiful " lines " to the 
whole design. Under each point hang bells, which 
tinkle sweetly in the breeze. In this class of building, 
and, indeed, in most buildings in China, the roof is the 

great and outstanding feature. 
46 



LOONGWHA TEMPLES, NEAR SHANGHAI 



SHANGHAI 

While I was at work here one day my friends 
drove out to join me, bringing tea, and on my asking 
innocently "Did they propose to take it amidst my crowd"? 
" Oh, no," said a lady, " we will find a nice grave near." 
This, to me, sounded rather strange ; but obediently we 
went off in search of this delectable spot ; and, sure 
enough, a few minutes' walk and we saw an enclosure 
where, on a nice green mound, were trees giving pleasant 
shade. There we made our tea and took it, a few 
natives looking on and ready to seize the fragments 
left. 

Perhaps the most objectionable practice in this part of 
China is the method the people have of disposing of 
their dead. Ancestor-worship in itself is to my mind a 
very beautiful idea, and, I think, one of the strongest 
points in the habits and character of the Chinese ; but I 
cannot see why they should drop the coffin down at any 
point thought fit — be it near human habitation or a 
public pathway matters nothing to them. There they lay 
it down, and are supposed to cover it with earth ; but in 
many cases this is not done, and the coffin with its grue- 
some contents is left exposed to the weather. Even if on 
occasion the earth is put over the coffin, it is generally 
insufficient. 

This happens all over this part of China ; so that in 
the back, or even front, garden of a foreigner's house one 
may see a grave mound, although in these cases it has 

47 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

assumed a good covering of green turf, as in the case of 
the one on which we had tea. 

On my way out one day to Loongwha I found just 
under a bridge crossing a small creek this notice: "The 
carriages must take care to pass this bridge, for it will 
be broken." The pony had to be taken out and led 
across, and then the carriage pushed over on planks. 

All the world knows how the opium question is 
stirring China at the present time. I was present at one 
little incident in connection with this. Notices were 
posted that on a Sunday afternoon, at some tea-gardens 
on the Bubbling Well Road, there would be publicly 
burned all the furnishings, fittings, pipes, &c., of an 
opium-den recently bought up and closed in Shanghai. 
My brother and I went to see this. There was a large 
crowd of Chinese as well as foreigners of all nations, 
and sympathy for the anti-opium movement was shown. 
Speeches were delivered in English and Chinese, and all 
the articles appertaining to opium-smoking were heaped 
into a sort of funeral pyre, and, being well soaked with 
paraffin or other inflammable stuff, were burnt. I may 
mention that most of the silver fittings of the pipes had 
been carefully removed — "Waste not. Want not." 

The treatment of native criminals in Shanghai did 
not appeal to me. It was not a pleasant sight, in the 
course of your walk or drive, to see the poor wretches 
being driven by uniformed native police slowly along 



SHANGHAI 

the streets, with the cangue, a wooden frame which 
opens to allow it to be fastened round the neck. The 
cangue is very heavy, and the wearer cannot lie down, 
nor can he reach his mouth to feed himself. Besides, 
on the criminal is a notice describing his offence. The 
idea is, I believe, to show how he has lost " face," and 
to deter others from offending in the same manner. 
There are the chain-gangs, too, working on the roads 
and recreation-grounds, dragging heavy rollers, &c. 

Fires are rather too frequent ; and, although there is 
a fine volunteer fire-brigade, it would seem as if the 
time cannot be far distant when the Council of this 
most progressive place will be obliged to have a paid 
professional brigade. The volunteer brigade is largely 
recruited from the younger foreigners, and their em- 
ployers are large-minded enough to allow them to be 
called away from their business, or if out all night (as 
frequently happens), to overlook the unfitness for work 
next day. But this surely cannot continue, nor is it 
right that it should. In one week, during my stay, 
there were three considerable fires, which must have 
been not only a very heavy tax on the energies of the 
brigade but also on the patience of the employers. One 
fire I saw was of some native buildings and a small 
wood-yard. The whole thing went up like matchwood ; 
and but for the very smart work of the firemen, with 

their native assistants, it must have extended very much 

D 49 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

farther. The night before, we heard the fire-call and 
learned that some large oil-mills were destroyed ; and 
next night large wood-yards in Hongkew were burnt 
out. 

The variations of climate are about the same, I 
fancy, as ours. I arrived in Shanghai early in April, to 
find it cold and wet, and that kind of weather prevailed 
throughout that month. On one occasion there was a 
great hailstorm. I was driving with my brother at 
the time, in a victoria, and so large were the hailstones 
that we were glad to hold the leather apron up in front 
to protect ourselves. When it ceased, we saw the small 
Chinese children running to collect handfuls of the 
stones, which were as large as hazel-nuts and did con- 
siderable damage, breaking windows, &c. In May the 
weather improved and got warmer, and by the end of 
the month it was hot, but not unpleasantly. At this 
time I set oft' on my house-boat trip. 



50 



CHAPTER IX 

SOOCHOW AND TAHU 

House-Boats — No. i Boy — The Shanghai-Nanking Railway — On our 

Curiosity of the Country People — My First Impressions of Chinese Water- 
ways — Bridges — Water-raising Machines — Passing through a Village. 

AN expedition to Soochow and Tahu which I was 
/ \ asked to join, and which proved most enjoy- 
y V a-ble, was made at Easter. Two house-boats, 
the Togo and the Leila, provided ample accommodation 
for our party ; one boat was quite luxuriously fitted up, 
and the other was quite comfortable. One could not 
wish for more comfortable travelling than these Shanghai 
house-boats afford. Of course they are specially built 
for foreigners' use. 

The No. I Boy was instructed to make all arrange- 
ments for our journey. I may mention that the No. i 
Boy in a European's house in the East is the chief 
native servant, and occupies a similar position to the 
butler at home (all servants are called "boys," whatever 
their age) ; he in most cases runs the house ; he engages 
all the other servants, and gets his squeeze (commission) 
from them and from the tradespeople, and although he 
may be paid a fair wage, his "extras" are quite con- 
siderable in a house of any size. 

51 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

I heard the orders given to the No. i — Yung Yung — 
who has been in the family nearly all his life. They 
were short but clear: — 

" Boy, in two three day Missessee, my, young 
Missessee, Missessee O. and Mister T. (myself) all go 
house-boat, seven piecee man, you go house-boats, talkee 
that boatman, make all thing proper." These few in- 
structions were quite enough to insure everything being 
made ready for our trip. 

To save time and get quickly up country, the boats 
were ordered to proceed in advance to Soochow, where 
we would meet them, while we travelled by the new 
Shanghai-Nanking Railway, which is quite equal to any 
of our home railways in smooth running and accommo- 
dation. At Soochow we found our boats waiting for 
us in the creek quite near the station, which is outside 
the city walls. Like our own folks sixty or seventy 
years ago, the Chinese try to keep their railways out- 
side the cities, and I suppose in time to come they will 
like ourselves be sorry for it. 

We at once went on board, and were soon being 
quietly propelled along by our coolies with three great oars 
or yuloos, two to each boat with three coolies to each 
yuloo ; it is a very pleasant movement, and a delightful 
change, after the noise of the city life, to get away quietly on 
the water. I in particular felt the relief of being away from 
the crowds of natives swarming round me as I worked. 
52 



SOOCHOW AND TAHU 

We left Soochow at once, being anxious to get 
farther up to the district of the Tahu (Great Lake). 
Our first afternoon's journey took us above Mutu, 
where, near a picturesque bridge, we tied up for the 
night. No sooner had we come to anchor than the 
curious native appeared, and many crowded round on 
the banks watching us; they were much interested in 
the ladies and children of our party — we men are more 
common, and do not excite such curiosity. 

The country folks are most inquisitive about Euro- 
pean ladies and children, and wish to closely examine 
and finger their dresses. The fair, daintily-dressed 
children seemed specially to please them. The Chinese 
are very fond of children, and I have heard it said that 
a foreigner might go anywhere in China, not only with 
safety but sure of great courtesy, if accompanied by a 
young child. 

It was on this trip that I got my first impressions 
of the creeks and rivers which lead into the interior, and 
along which for centuries has been borne the merchandise 
of China. Until now, water carriage has been the principal 
means of conveyance in this (and indeed a large) part of 
China, and by water one can go almost anywhere. It is 
like a vast network spreading all over the country, extend- 
ing far and near ; providing at the same time easy means 
of irrigation, maintaining thereby the richness and fertility 
of the land and a ready means of transit for its products. 

»2 , S3 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

The wonderful waterways of China have been a source 
of wealth to all and sundry, affording great employment 
of capital and labour ; and although now railways are 
being rapidly built, and will doubtless prove of inesti- 
mable value, it is to be hoped that these great waterways 
will not be allowed to fall into disuse. Here one sees 
a junk deep in the quiet water moving along under her 
great sail, there a small sampan, and — sign of the times ! — 
there again a noisy, puffing steam launch, towing her 
train of native boats, all laden to the water's edge with 
the various products of this rich land, or conveying in- 
land some of the manufactures of Western countries. 

We pass through many bridges built of finely dressed 
stone, some with one span, and others with several, 
and reminding one strongly of the Venetian bridges ; 
and I could not help reflecting on how much, in the 
past. Southern Europe must have borrowed from China, 
and how things are now reversed, and China is bor- 
rowing from the West. It is but the inevitable swing 
of the pendulum. 

Soon after leaving Mutu, we began to approach a 
more hilly country, but with great tracts of flat land, 
through which the waterways ran, fertilising and enrich- 
ing it. The rich yet tender green of springtime showed 
the luxuriant growth of highly cultivated land — belts of 
brilliant yellow, the flower of the rape — clumps of trees 
here and there ; the whole making a beautiful landscape. 
54 



NEAR MUTU, ABOVE SOOCHOW 



SOOCHOW AND TAHU 

On rising ground stands a high pagoda showing out 
against the distant hills. 

In the fields we could see the industrious people tilling 
their land, some hoeing and weeding, others carrying 
liquid from tanks, and spreading it on the soil, while 
the smell was wafted in the air towards us. Nothing 
is wasted in China. 

This method of intense cultivation by the use of rank 
manure does not commend itself to the foreigner, who 
requires to be very careful as to what vegetables he eats, 
and is often obliged to avoid them altogether, especially 
salads and uncooked vegetables. 

On the banks of the creeks are fitted quaintly formed 
machines for lifting the water up for irrigation. A long 
wooden trough is carried down into the water, with a 
continuous belt with pieces of wood fitting the trough ; 
some of these are worked by coolies and some larger ones 
by water buffaloes, and the creaking noise of grinding 
wood is heard far off in the still evening air as the coolies 
or animals go their monotonous round. 

Here we come to a row of quaint stone structures, 
widows' monuments, and entrances leading to the tombs 
of former great ones of the district. 

Passing through one village, we had great difficulty 
to get our boats along between the houses on the canal ; 
it was so narrow that at times we rubbed along touching 
houses on both sides, with the natives viewing us from 

55 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

their windows. Heated arguments arose between our 
coolies and others as to the best method of getting 
along; and people crowded on the bridges, to watch our 
slow progress and criticise us and our belongings. Our 
cook would take such an opportunity as this to go ashore 
and make purchases of chickens, eggs, &c., and join us 
farther on. 

By-and-bye we reached a wide stretch of water near 
Kwangfoong, the character of which in the Tahu district 
is somewhat akin to our English Lake district. The 
hills are rather of the same character, soft and green, 
and rising to more ruggedness farther up. At Kwang- 
foong is a fine pagoda ; the village is small and unim- 
portant with various temples ; there is a fine three-span 
bridge crossing the water here, a view of which I give 
in my picture taken from a mandarin's grave on the 
hillside. 

An attempt was made to shoot some snipe near here, 
on a flat and marshy island, but the season was late, 
and the birds not plentiful, so that our larder did not 
greatly benefit. 

We stayed some days in this beautiful neighbour- 
hood, making various excursions, examining temples, and 
sketching. Our two boats anchored in a snug corner 
under a hill, where we received visits from many natives, 
who were especially interested in us at meal-times, and 
would try to look in at our cabin windows when we 
56 



AT WONG-DONG: CORMORANT FISHING 



SOOCHOW AND TAHU 

were at the table. But they objected to be photographed 
or sketched, and a sure way to make them go off was 
to point a camera at them, or make a pretence of draw- 
ing them, when they would immediately hide their faces 
while moving away. 

Our return journey was by much the same route, but 
it was just as interesting seeing it all again ; indeed one 
seemed to enjoy it even more. One object which greatly 
attracted me was a bridge over the Canal at a small 
village, Wong-Dong; on the bridge was a quaint old 
joss-house. I was able to make a sketch of this, with 
some cormorant fishing-boats in the foreground. The 
method of catching fish with cormorants, as far as I 
could see, was as follows : Spars project over the side 
of the boat, and on these are perched the birds ; the 
fisherman has a light cane, and with this lightly touches 
the bird he wishes to go, and it immediately dives for a 
fish ; on the bird's return to the boat, the fisherman takes 
the fish. A ring placed round the cormorant's neck pre- 
vents it swallowing the fish. 

The Woo Men Bridge at Soochow is another and 
one of the finest of these beautiful buildings crossing the 
Grand Canal, cleanly built of face stone, and taking a 
graceful sweep upwards and over the great arch. 

Soochow is rather like Hangchow, but not, I think, 
so beautiful, in spite of the Chinese proverb which I 
mention in my Hangchow chapters. The streets are 

57 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

narrow, with good shops, and the usual bustling crowds. 
By the way these narrow streets seem to me to give a 
greatly exaggerated idea of the population of Chinese 
cities, the people being so crowded together in the 
narrow lanes. 

We had a look at the famous pagoda in this city. It 
is of great age, nine storeys in height, with an immense 
circumference at the base. It is built with double walls, 
the staircase occupying the space between. 



58 



THE BRIDGE AT KWANGFOONG 

As seen from a Mandarin's grave. 



CHAPTER X 

HANGCHOW 

House-boat Trip to Bing-oo, Hangchow, &c. — Sketching Confucian Temple at 
Bing-oo — Crockery Purchase — Sacred Tortoise — Widows' Monument — My 
Friend's Efforts to Photograph — On to Kashing — Gramaphone. 

T GLADLY accepted a friend's kind loan of his house- 
I boat, and proceeded to make arrangements for an 
J. excursion through some of the waterways round 
Shanghai. Another kindly friend, who was to accom- 
pany me for the first week or so, fitted up electric fans, 
with accumulators strong enough to work for some weeks, 
a very great boon for the hot nights we were now get- 
ting. The Scout was a roomy house-boat. The lawdah 
(skipper) engaged his crew of six coolies. My boy agreed 
to add to his other duties that of cook, and laid in many 
stores, solid and liquid ; the ice chest was filled up, and 
a further store put under the fore-deck, with many bottles 
of filtered and distilled water — and we were ready. 

A beautiful evening at the end of May saw us all on 
board, and my relatives waving adieus from the Boat 
Club platform, as we moved slowly out of the Soochow 
Creek. Then we fastened on to a train of native boats, 
behind a steam launch, and away we went up the 

59 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Whangpo on our journey. There was a call to the boy 
for tea, and after this my friend and I sat on the deck, 
watching the landscape as we moved along in the quiet 
evening hours. We met many craft on this busy water- 
way, all going to and fro from the great centre of com- 
merce with their loads of exports or imports. The extent 
of the imports the traveller soon gathers as he goes along ; 
and even in small villages one sees bills in Chinese 
characters advertising So-and-so's cigarettes — in which 
I believe there is enormous trade — or somebody else's 
cocoa, or soap, or sewing-machines. One need not read 
the statistics to realise the importance of the catering for 
this teeming population of thrifty people. Thrifty they 
are in all ways : nothing is wasted. On the native boats 
to which we were attached there seemed to be crowds of 
passengers, some lying about smoking, some preparing their 
evening meal, and some gambling : never can you see 
a large number of Chinese together without gambling. 
It is the spirit of the dealer, the longing for hazard, 
which is inherent in this people. 

Early the next morning we reached, and anchored at, 
Bing-oo, a quaint and purely Chinese small town, walled 
in, of course, as all Chinese towns are. Here I soon 
found subjects for my brush, chief being the Temple of 
Confucius near by the water gate. The only place from 
which I could see my subject, and could hope to get peace 

to work, was a small projecting piece of land against the 
60 



THE TEMPLE AT BING-OO : WATER GATE 
AND CITY WALL 



HANGCHOW 

Creek, and surrounded partly by buildings. By judicious 
" palm oil " I got possession of this, and after my coolies 
had cleared it I got to work. But oh the crowds ! 
Hundreds came — I could see them streaming across 
the bridge lower down, and making their way round ; 
and when they found they couldn't get close to me, 
they crowded on to my foreground opposite me and 
practically blocked out my subject. 

Then my lawdah came in ; he procured a rope, and 
stretching it from a wall near me, right across for 30 
or 40 yards, made all the people get outside it, and, by 
stationing coolies along, kept the crowd there. Each 
day when finishing work I turned my picture round for 
them to look at — an act which, I was told, was much 
appreciated. 

Near by me, beside the Temple, there was a large 
tank surrounded by a fine stone balustrade, and con- 
taining a very large sacred tortoise ; we threw food in, 
and he graciously came to the surface and exhibited his 
length to us — about 3J feet. 

I had to purchase some crockery for use on the boat 

in this town ; and after much bargaining, in which it 

appeared to me half the population of the street took 

part, as they crowded into the shop and round the door, 

I bought for little over a Mexican dollar various dishes 

of nice china, of quaint and artistic design and colour. 

The same number of dishes at home would have cost 

61 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

me five times as much, and not been nearly so pretty. 
I found, however, my boy was not overpleased, as he 
seemed to think that things of European character would 
be more suitable for my use ; but his only remark to 
me was, as he pointed to the articles, "All same Chinee, 
no b'long foleign man." 

In this neighbourhood I saw good specimens in stone 
of what are known as Widows' Monuments. They are 
erected by the relatives to the memory of the widow 
who has remained faithful to her husband ; and some 
are very beautiful — great blocks of stone set up, and 
the horizontal pieces put in with tenons, as we would 
do with woodwork. 

My friend was a keen photographer and great on 
finding "good views," and walking by the water one day 
he said excitedly, "Ah, now I see where to get that 
pagoda from," and excitedly jumped on to what seemed 
like a piece of land jutting out into the water. Alas ! 
it was not solid, and in he went, up to his knees in 
slush dredged from the river and laid there to be used 
as manure ! After much pulling I got him out, but had 
to desire him, when we got into the sampan, to sit at 
the other end while we crossed to our boat. A coolie 
was then detailed to scrape and wash him down till he 
was fit to come on board. 

After a few days at Bing-oo we up anchor and started 

once more, this time propelled by coolies using the two 
62 



BING-OO: A WIDOW'S MONUMENT 



"^ 



^n^ 




HANGCHOW 

great oars, or yuloes, a slow but very pleasant means 
of progress. Without event we reached Kashing, an 
old town, once important, but greatly devastated in the 
Taiping Rebellion : large spaces within the walls still 
show nothing but ruins. 

Mooring our boat at the Custom-house wharf we 
were soon greeted by the genial Commissioner, who 
seemed rather surprised to find that an artist should 
have come to that part of the world to sketch. He 
kindly volunteered to show us round, and suggested a 
visit by boat to a lake near. We therefore hired a 
Chinese boat of less draught than our own, and went 
off on it accompanied by Mr. Commissioner and one 
of his friends. The friend put on board a grama- 
phone, and as we moved along the busy waterway he 
set it going with one of those popular laughing songs ; 
and never before or since have I seen Chinese laugh so 
much or so heartily. On all sides they took it up, and, 
where they could, hurried along the banks to keep near 
us ; but gradually our speed lessened, and when we 
called out to the lawdah to go on, his reply mixed with 
laughter was, " Master, my no can yulo, so muchee 
laugh." But we reached the lake, a rather pretty stretch 
of water with low hills round. We visited a small 
temple nicely placed on an eminence on the banks, and 
amused the natives with the gramaphone once more. 

63 



CHAPTER XI 
HANGCHOW SETTLEMENT 

Arrival at Hangchow Settlement — Mosquitoes — The West Lake— Causeways — 
Islands — Lin Yin Temples — The Whistling Stone. 

AT Kashing we again got on to a train of boats 
/\ behind a steam launch, and started at midnight 
± \^ \o Hangchow, the neighbourhood of which place 
was the principal object of this trip. Here we were 
greeted by the British Consul, who had been advised 
of my coming by my friends in Shanghai. The Consul- 
ate stands by itself across the Grand Canal from the 
British Settlement and Japanese Concession. We spent 
but one night here, and a lively one it was. Our boat 
sw^armed with the largest mosquitoes I have seen, 
strong and muscular too, judging by the way they bit 
me through my clothing. I was glad when morning 
came and we moved off, to get as near as possible to 
what I felt would be my principal sketching ground. 

The West Lake was originally little more than a 
morass. A past dynasty, who favoured this beautiful 
part of their country by frequent residence, made of the 
marsh a beautiful lake, extending from the west wall of 
the city, some miles along the valley. It is crossed and 
64 




^- 



HANGCHOW: A BRIDGE ON THE CAUSE- 
WAY. WEST LAKE 



HANGCHOW SETTLEMENT 

divided up by causeways, and here the character of the 
Chinese is shown in combining utility and beauty. 

These causeways are covered with turf, which form a 
fine galloping ground, and a narrow paved walk for 
pedestrians. Many willow trees give shade and add to 
the sylvan beauty, and every here and there one comes 
to a quaint high-backed bridge with the ruins of an old 
gateway on the top. 

The ponies go up and down the steps of these bridges 
as to the manner born ; but my friend, to whom riding was 
a new experience, had grave doubts as to whether he would 
reach the other side or be thrown into the lake. Dotted 
about are islands, one group in particular, joined together 
by zigzag stone bridges, with pavilions, tea-houses, and 
temples which are at once memorial to some dead notable, 
and a pleasant resort to-day. 

The lake stretches far along, and the hills rise higher 
on either side, and now and then a ruined pagoda is seen, 
relics of the time when the Chinese got their pleasure by 
ascending those high places, and enjoying a bird's-eye view 
of the country round. Their pictures of both past and 
present are drawn as from some such place. An old 
Chinese proverb says : — 

"There is Heaven above 

And Soochow and Hangchow below," 

and I felt the truth of this when I saw the beauty spread 

out before me. 

E 6^ 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

The lake scenery is quite different from anything which 
we have at home. Gaily painted pleasure-boats move slowly 
across the water, causing a gentle ripple on its calm and 
peaceful surface. 

Let me take my readers past the beds of lotus, with 
their lovely pink flowers ; let us sail under the bridges, to 
the opposite side to the beautiful pailau in front of the 
Imperial Library, with its red-coloured walls ; let us enter 
this place of seclusion, and look at the fine building with 
its many thousands of books, which now stands where was 
once an imperial palace. On past the Red Pagoda, now 
in ruins, to the head of the lake. Let us wander for a few 
miles to the Lin Yin Temples, where we shall find archi- 
tecture not to be surpassed anywhere. Here we may see 
a small stone pagoda, which seems as though it were the 
model for a larger building, and, farther on, large pillars 
the sole relics of a once stately entrance to noble temples. 
Even the remaining temples, though but a fragment of 
what existed here, are fine examples, and contain some 
good bronze incense-burners, &c., and a few fine porcelain 
jars. Let us follow the stream up the valley to the Cave 
Temples, with their gods cut out of the solid rock. A 
weird place ! The priest, who seems to be in charge, 
must have rather cold quarters if he sleeps here, for 
these, I should think, are partly natural caves, and are 
very much enlarged by human work ; but, like other caves, 

they are damp and dark and dismal. The priest, however, 
66 



HANGCHOW: PAILAU AT THE IMPERIAL 
LIBRARY 



HANGCHOW SETTLEMENT 

seemed cheerful enough as he offered to sell us joss- 
sticks. 

From this place we went on to the Whistling Stone, 
and my friends tried hard, blowing at the two holes, but 
were unable to produce the whistle from which the stone 
takes its name. I preferred looking on, and keeping my 
breath for a better purpose. 

Words fail to describe all the beautiful scenes in this 
part of China, 



67 



CHAPTER XII 

HANGCHOW CITY 

North Gate— Dr. Main's Medical Mission and his Pagoda — Ride through the Hills — 
Purchase of old Stone Lions — Excitement among Coolies — I am Robbed of 
my Silver— Night— Fireflies, Beetles, Frogs— I Paint a Water-Buffalo. 

THE city of Hangchow is one of the most ancient 
and also one of the most prosperous in the 
south of China. At one time the capital, it 
still retains its importance, both commercially and 
politically. The streets are good, and a little broader 
than at Canton or Shanghai, and the shops are fine. 
One shop is noted for fans ; and here I bought a fan on 
which is depicted a view of the West Lake and moun- 
tains as seen from the walls of the city, of most beauti- 
ful and artistic design. 

The North Gate of Hangchow, the principal entrance, 
with its carved roofs, rising high above the walls, is a 
fine building. The gates are closed at or soon after 
sundown ; and if one is shut out there is no hope of 
obtaining entrance until next morning, unless, as in my 
case, one is accompanied by a high official or well-known 
person. In this case a little persuasion and a kumshaw 

(tip), or gift, will induce the gatekeeper to lower a basket 
68 



HANGCHOW CITY 

from an upper window, and, seated in this, the belated 
traveller is hauled up and let down on the other side. 

There is a large mission station belonging to the 
Church Missionary Society, and one of the best foreign 
medical missions in China, in charge of Dr. Main, who 
also owns the hill by the lake and a Pagoda thereon — 
the only instance, I believe, of a foreigner owning such 
a building in China. I lay no claim to special know- 
ledge of the missionary work, medical or otherwise, of 
my fellow-countrymen in China. I had neither the time 
nor the ability for such an inquiry, but I feel that it 
would be unjust to overlook the work of Dr. Main as 
head of a hospital of 250 beds, a leper hospital of 
27 beds, a maternity training-school, first-aid homes 
for convalescents and consumptives, and, last but not 
least, the Medical College with its fifty students, which 
will have as far reaching an influence on the future of 
China as any of these other agencies. 

In the words of Lord William Cecil, who visited the 

hospital recently : " Dr. Duncan Main has established 

such a position in that city, that when one walks round 

the vast city of Hangchow with him, one finds it hard 

to believe that Europeans were ever unpopular in China, 

and when one enters his leper refuge, and sees the 

happy smiles of welcome on the faces of the poor 

sufferers, one understands the reason for his popularity. 

The mandarin, who was in charge of the questions that 

E 2 69 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

concern foreigners in this province, told us that there 
was no friction in that city with Protestant Missions, 
which I suggest is owing to Dr. Main's influence." I 
must add that the writer was not speaking of a member 
of a society for which he holds a special brief. 

On one of our rides up through the hills, stopping 
for a rest at a small temple, I came on some old 
carved stone lions, which I took a fancy to possess, and 
with my friend's help entered into negotiations with the 
chief priest for their purchase. What a haggling and 
bargaining there was ! But at last I became the pur- 
chaser and paid a deposit, it being arranged that my 
friend would come back next day, bring coolies for their 
removal, and pay for them. I was at first doubtful how 
these large and heavy stones could be got over these 
hills, with no roads, only narrow paths ; but my friend 
said it was easy enough, and, as he kindly volunteered 
to undertake the management of it, I knew it would be 
done. So next morning he, with the lawdah and three 
coolies from the boat, left for the hills, and on their 
way engaged carrying coolies. I went off as usual in 
my sampan up the creek, then overland to the West 
Lake, having with me only two coolies, and leaving the 
houseboat in charge of my own boy and one coolie. I 
had a long and very good day's work, and was glad 
when evening came to get into my sampan, which was 

brought for me each evening to the head of the Creek, 
70 



HANGCHOW CITY 

for the return home; but I noticed, though I could not 
understand why, that the coolie who had charge of the 
boat was talking very much. They all seemed rather 
excited ; and, when we reached the houseboat, there was 
more chatter and talk aft. I had hardly got aboard 
when I thought I could hear my friend returning, so I 
went ashore to meet him, and told him I was sure there 
was something up. The lawdah soon settled this. He 
came and reported, " One coolie have walkee." We went 
aboard at once, and, entering the cabin, saw there was 
some trouble: both hasps of the locks of my cabin 
trunk were broken, and on opening it I found that all 
my silver dollars were gone ! 

It turned out that my boy, left on the boat with one 
coolie and knowing us to be away for the day, thought 
he would have a holiday, and so took himself off. The 
coolie left : unaccustomed to so much responsibility, I 
suppose, he felt lonely, and to break the monotony smashed 
open my trunk, and departed with the silver. Only my 
note-case covered by some socks, with a string of coppers, 
lay untouched. This at once explained the excitement 
among the coolies. According to Chinese custom the 
lawdah, who engaged the coolies, was responsible to me 
for their honesty and good behaviour ; and he was, of 
course, in a great state, and declared he i should go at 
once in pursuit of the thief It was necessary that we 
should inform the Consul and police at Hangchow 

71 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Settlement, and we determined to ride in, that night, after 
having some food. When ready to start we noticed a 
distinct quietness, and found that the lawdah and all the 
remaining crew had gone off on the hunt. This meant 
that we could not both go, so my friend volunteered, and 
I remained on the boat, my boy, the cause of all this 
trouble, being my sole companion. Because there had 
been a good deal of trouble recently in this district with 
salt-smugglers and the like, and not knowing if the 
thief might be in league with others, my friend insisted 
that our guns should be loaded, and said, if he saw the 
coolies, he would tell them to shout before coming on 
board, as I was going to fire on any one who came on 
without warning. 

My friend, by the way, could not ride till two days 
before this, but having done from twenty-five to thirty 
miles each day, now felt quite equal to anything on 
horseback. It was a case of "needs must," which, after 
all, generally finds an Englishman ready. 

How peaceful and calm it all seemed when they had 
gone. The night not moonlight, but yet not dark, with 
twinkling stars overhead, how quiet and serene it was ! 
My thoughts were with my work, and the anxiety to be 
fit for it next day worried me far more than the wretched 
theft of my dollars. I lay in my chair on the deck, in 
the warm night air, thinking of all the quiet beauty. The 

fireflies buzzed round, the great flying-beetles were trying 

72 




%^.l'* '■•• 



$ 

^ 



WATER-BUFFALO AT WORK IN THE 
PADDY-FIELDS 



HANGCHOW CITY 

to get in at my curtained windows to the light. Mos- 
quitoes came at me with a hum. In a swamp near by 
the frogs croaked intermittently. The bull-frog would 
start the concert with his deep croak ; another and another 
would join in, until the air was full of their noise. Then 
it would all stop just as suddenly, and for a few moments 
peace reigned. Then the scissor -grinders would start 
their shrill note. No lack of life here. By-and-by I 
turned in, and, amidst this peaceful noise, went to sleep. 
But in the small hours I was roused by loud shouting. 
I lay for some moments to collect my thoughts, then 
remembered that this would be my coolies. They had 
returned to rest while others continued the search. Early 
morning brought in the others, and a note from my 
friend to the effect that the Consul and the police were 
coming out to see me that day. I groaned as I thought 
of my work on the lake, but had to give in. 

I went ashore for a stroll after breakfast, and not far 
off came on a typical country scene — water-buffaloes at 
work in the rice-fields preparing the flooded land for the 
seed. "Ah!" I thought, "I need not waste time," and 
determined to get a drawing of this. Back to my boat 
I went for materials, and instructed the boy that, when 
Consul gentlemen came, he was to bring them to where 
I was at work. 

I had some trouble in persuading the man with the 
buffalo to go on with work. He wanted to stop and 

73 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

come and watch me ; but ultimately my coolie got him 
to understand, and, when I wanted him to stop his steed 
at a certain spot, a few coppers prevailed. After having 
posed for me, he came to see the result, and was im- 
mensely amused, and soon gathered all the other workers 
to the spot to see what this queer foreigner had done ; 
and with this crowd round, the Consul found me, and my 
friend returned from his night hunt. We went to the 
boat, had tiffin and a discussion of the robbery; and in 
discussion and talk it ended. I never saw my coolie or 
my silver dollars again. One result of this robbery was 
that I had to send to Shanghai for some more silver, 
which with copper is the only money recognised in the 
country districts, notes being viewed with suspicion ; 
moreover, it was difficult to get change for more than a 
dollar or two. For some days I had to borrow from 
my boy and the lawdah. But such exciting incidents 
are happily rare, and in this delightful spot I spent some 
weeks and completed several pictures. 



74 



CHAPTER XIII 

GOOD-BYE TO HANGCHOW 

My Friend leaves Me — Bank-Notes — Fan Shop — Painting at the City Gate — My 
Coolie straps Another — Coffin on the Pathway — Hot Weather — Night in 
Hangchow City — A Fire — Good-bye to Hangchow — On the Grand Canal — 
Return to Shanghai. 

A T this time my friend had to leave me and return 
/\ to his duties in Shanghai, and with much regret 
y \^ I parted from a cheery and resourceful companion 
and was left in solitude. But within a few days this 
was pleasantly broken again by another friend coming 
up from Shanghai for the week-end to have a look round 
this lovely district, and I had the pleasure of a long day's 
ride with him and my friend, the Chief of Police and 
Magistrate from the Settlement — a man who knew all the 
neighbourhood, spoke Chinese, and was a great help to 
me during my stay. 

We of course rode along the causeways across the lake, 
and away up into the hills to see the Lin Yin Temples, and 
finished by going to the city to allow my friend from 
Shanghai to buy a fan. Entering by the West Gate I 
suddenly said to him that I hoped he had got some money 
with him. He replied he had foreign notes. " Oh," I said, 
"they are no use here; that bank is boycotted, and the 

75 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

people here don't like their notes." This was quite true ; 
I had great difficulty recently to get even a small one 
changed ; but I was only chaffing him, because I knew that 
where we were going — the fan shop — they would take a 
foreign note. But he, being a high official in the bank, was 
quite disgusted that their notes should ever be doubted, let 
alone refused. For a time, however, this was so. The 
foreign banks rightly refused to take notes on native 
banks, which had no reserve with which to meet them, 
and the native banks retaliated by boycotting the foreign 
bank-notes, and inducing the native traders to do so. 

The fan shop was large and seemed prosperous. We 
were told that fans were sent from here to all parts of the 
world, and, seeing the beautiful work, I was not surprised. 
All kinds of materials were used for these fans, from the 
common paper with cheap cane handles and ribs to the 
finest silk most exquisitely painted and mounted on carved 
ivory ; many of the fans, too, were made of various kinds of 
feathers. 

Our bargaining here was helped by cups of green tea, 
which the shopman handed round ; and this was not un- 
welcome after a long ride in the heat. 

One of my subjects was the North Gate of the city, 

to do which I had about three miles to walk. I doubt 

if such a thing had been seen here before as a foreigner 

sitting on a stool with an easel set up and a white umbrella 

over him, painting a picture of the gateway ; and the usual 
76 



HANGCHOW: THE NORTH GATE 



GOOD-BYE TO HANGCHOW 

swarms of people came to surround and watch me. My 
lawdah got his rope out and formed a triangle with it to 
keep the crowd off, and he and the coolies had their 
work cut out. The people coming out of the city 
gates would make straight for me and get in my way, 
so a coolie was instructed to keep them off; and one 
time, on looking up, I was amused to see that my coolie 
had got one of my straps and with it was deliberately 
smacking a man over the head and face to make him get 
out of the way. I could not help laughing even though I 
called out to him to desist, but every one laughed — even 
the man who had been strapped ! It was very interesting 
to sit at this gate and see the various goings in and out. 
The beggars were here, of course, and the small hawkers 
with their trays of various articles of food. Then would 
come out a small mandarin in his chair, followed by that of 
his wife, and preceded by his red umbrella, and then his 
followers on ponies — and a rough and ragged-looking lot 
they were. He was probably going to his country house 
and likely enough was a rich man ; but I could not help 
comparing this gentleman's departure from the city to 
his country seat, with that of a man of his position and 
means in this country — his importance was estimated by 
the number of his followers, ours by the smart and trim 
appearance. 

One day, on our return journey to the boat, the 
lawdah, thinking to take a nearer way, went by a path 

77 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

through some fields ; and leading the way at one point, 
looked back to me, and, significantly holding his nose, 
turned off the path to one side. I followed him, and 
with good reason. There was a coffin laid right beside 
the path, and left there uncovered in the heat ! ! 

By this time — the middle of June — the heat was get- 
ting very great. The thermometer in my cabin averaged 
94° and 95°. The reader can easily imagine what this 
meant in the open air, with only a white sketching um- 
brella for shelter. My clothing was as simple as possible, 
yet any clothing seemed too much ; and the nights were 
perfectly unendurable through mosquitoes, which I did my 
best to exclude by covering the windows of my cabin with 
netting. At night one felt the benefit of the electric fan, 
which served to make a little breeze ; but even this failed 
me at last, and I had a bad time. By day there was a 
little breeze, but at night it usually died away. 

The advance of civilisation, as Western people under- 
stand it, may be guessed when I say that during my stay 
in this district I had a large box of ice three times a week 
from Shanghai — 150 miles — sent by steam-launch, landed 
at the Custom-House, there put in a small boat and sent 
on to me. And what a boon it was ! It meant that I 
could always have a cool drink, and that my food was 
kept fit to eat. I have the care of my friends in Shanghai 
to thank for that comfort. 

My last night in this delightful neighbourhood I 
78 



GOOD-BYE TO HANGCHOW 

spent in the house of a friend at Hangchow, where I 
arranged that my boat should wait for me at the Custom- 
House Quay, and so save the tedious journey down small 
creeks to the Grand Canal. 

Entering the gate of the city at dusk, we still had 
a considerable distance to go before reaching my host's 
hospitable dwelling. Before our journey's end it was 
quite dark. In front of our chairs ran a coolie with a 
paper lantern, which was necessary in the dark streets. 
All the shops were shut, as the people retire to bed 
very early, artificial light being dear and dangerous. 
Our bearers swung along through the dark shadows, 
and, so far as my knowledge of the way went, they 
might have taken me anywhere ; but, with the faith I 
always had in the Chinaman, I felt as secure as in the 
streets of London. It was a weird experience, and more 
like a journey through a city of the dead than of the 
living, until at last we turned into the courtyard of my 
friend's house. 

In the morning I bade adieu to my hospitable friend, 
and went off by chair to meet my boat at the Custom- 
House, which is on the British Settlement by the Grand 
Canal four miles away. Leaving the city gate I found 
that, as is usual in the prosperous Chinese cities, the space 
within the walls had in recent times proved too small, 
and that the city extended far outside, reaching in this 
direction to the canal. Busy streets they were which 

79 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

I passed through. I found that I could not leave till 

night, so I spent the day wandering about the native 

street built on the British Settlement and under British 

rule. I was with my friend, the Chief of Police, when 

we spied some smoke issuing from a corner house near 

by. A crowd was gathering, and it was obvious that 

there was a fire. My friend was quickly off across the 

street, and was able with a few buckets of water to stop 

what would have been a serious fire. There was a strong 

wind blowing, and those slightly built houses, with so 

much timber, would have burnt like a matchbox. He 

said when he reached an upper room he found the place 

full of smoke, and at one side a native woman doing 

joss. She it was who, with her lighted joss-stick, had 

set fire to some paper round the image, and was now 

praying to the fire god to put it out. The fire god came 

in the form of a big burly Britisher, with a bucket of 

water, who very quickly put out both her and the fire. 

Towards night the train of boats was formed and 

mine was tied on, and, with adieus to my kind friends, 

I reluctantly said good-bye to Hangchow. The direct 

route by water from Hangchow to Shanghai is interesting, 

the country being flat, very fertile and highly cultivated. 

On the Grand Canal one may see the great care lavished 

in by-gone years on the most important of the great 

water thoroughfares of China, now so much neglected, 

the fine stone walls, or bunds, of the canal being sadly 
80 



GOOD-BYE TO HANGCHOW 

broken away and the parapets of the bridges gone. One 
wonders if the Chinese will ever wake up to the fact 
that they must save their fine canals, if cheap transit 
by water is to be preserved. At the moment railways 
are the chief object of their ambition ; but, great as the 
advantage of these would be, China can never afford to 
lose the older means of transit. 

I was out on deck soon after sunrise next morning. 
It proved a beautiful day — one of those days which seem 
to be sent to us now and again, just to show us how 
beautiful the world can be : glorious skies overhead, 
with great masses of cumuli-cloud, gleaming white, and 
with the blue of wonderful colour breaking through — a 
day on which it was a joy for a man to be alive and 
able to see all the beauty round him. 

Any landscape viewed under such conditions is fine, 
and to sail along this grand old waterway under such 
conditions was delightful. The flat landscape was 
streaked with brilliant lights and dark shadows, and 
there were stretches of vivid yellow and green clumps 
of trees round a temple. We were constantly meeting 
or passing great tall square matting-sailed junks, carry- 
ing all sorts of produce. These junks have a very stately 
look about them, and always impress me with a sense 
of solemnity as they glide slowly and quietly along, their 
dark hulls and tall sails reflected in the gleaming waters. 

Towards afternoon I could see in the distance the tall 
F 8i 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Loongwha Pagoda, which told me I was nearing the end 
of my journey and approaching Shanghai ; and glad 
as I was to land there and receive the welcome of my 
friends, and enjoy once more their hospitality, it was 
with regret that I said good-bye to the houseboat ScoiU, 
on which I had spent a most delightful time. 



82 



CHAPTER XIV 

JAPAN 

A Holiday — Comparisons with China. 

I FOUND Shanghai, when I returned at the end of 
June, sweltering in damp heat. The people looked 
pasty, limp, and tired. The energy of the spring 
had gone, and, though I had been in great heat at 
Hangchow, my life in the open air kept me from feeling 
it as much as people shut up, even in those city offices 
furnished with electric fans and all modern appliances. 

Clothes of the thinnest material were of course in use. 
The evening walk or drive to the Bubbling Well Road 
was the only chance of coolness, and this was very slow. 
Most people were talking of where they would go 
out of the heat, and nowadays they have a great 
choice without leaving China. Wei-hai-wei takes many, 
Cheefoo is an old favourite resort, and Pei-tai-ho a new 
one. Many go inland to the hills, others seek greater 
change in Japan ; and as I was told I would find it too 
hot to work out of doors in Northern China, I deter- 
mined to have a short spell in Japan. 

My relatives were going north to Pei-tai-ho, and invited 
me to join them there later on. So to Little Nippon I 

83 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

set sail, arriving, after a pleasant and uneventful 
passage, in Nagasaki, the first port of call. 

The entrance and appearance of this port, as indeed 
of all Japan, reminded me most of Scotland, particu- 
larly of the west coast. Wooded hills run down to 
the water's edge, the harbour being a natural inlet in the 
hills. 

Like all Japanese towns, Nagasaki is largely built of 
wood, the houses small and rather cheap looking. The 
people are distinctly cleaner in appearance than the 
Chinese, and very distinctly Westernised. True, the 
national costume is there still, but it is only worn by the 
coolie classes. The better-class Jap dresses in European 
clothes, and is no end of a swell. The natural result is 
a loss of picturesqueness and distinction. 

The shops are very interesting, and there is plenty to 

amuse the visitor. Our ship only made a short stay, 

and I and a few other passengers employed the time in 

a stroll through the town, and a very pleasant ricksha 

ride to the small fishing-village of Mogi, a pretty little 

place on the other side of the peninsula from Nagasaki. 

One great difference between Japan and China is the 

good roads almost everywhere in the former, roads that 

seem well engineered. The road we took wound about 

up the hillside and through a narrow gully and tunnel 

at the top, and then on down, passing rice-fields laid 

out in terraces one below the other, and irrigated by a 
84 



JAPAN 

cunningly diverted stream rising above and carried from 
terrace to terrace. 

Mogi was a great contrast to some of the Chinese 
villages I had recently visited. Its cleanliness was obvious 
as the dirt of the other was more than obvious, but this 
very cleanliness and tidiness made it less picturesque to 
the artist, if more pleasant to the visitor. 

Nagasaki is one of the ports where an artist for some 
obscure reason is not allowed to sketch without permis- 
sion. I suppose, in spite of their training, the people 
cannot yet understand the difference between an artist 
who wishes to make pictures and an engineer who might 
draw some of their fortifications ; yet you can go into 
any little shop and buy dozens of postcards, with views 
of all the places and many of the forts, &c. 

From Nagasaki we very soon got into the far-famed 

Inland Sea. The weather was perfect, the ship Toyo 

Kishen Kaisha SS. America Maru comfortable, and 

my fellow-passengers very good company. This part of 

the voyage was altogether delightful. The calm sea, 

with hills in view all the time, and ever-changing 

colours, lights and shadows, was beautiful. I thought of 

the times when I sailed up the Kyles of Bute and other 

West of Scotland seas. There is a great similarity, but 

the Japanese hills are less wooded, and of course the 

craft one sees is different — the fishing-boats, with their 

big white sails and light-coloured, unpainted woodwork, 

F 2 85 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

with the almost naked bodies of the fishermen gleaming 
in the sun. Certainly the Inland Sea of Japan deserves 
all that has been said in praise of it. 

Our next port of call was Kobe, where we arrived at 
evening and saw a most beautiful sunset, with the town 
and hills dark against it, and the water glowing with the 
reflected glory of the sky. A busy harbour it is, I 
spent a few pleasant hours on shore next day meeting 
some friends and looking through curio-shops, where the 
wily dealer provides newly made old curios for the 
unwary traveller ; but, after all, these new things are very 
cunningly fashioned and very beautiful, and, as they are 
not expensive, I am not sure the buyer suffers much. 

The town is more modern and Western-looking than 
Nagasaki ; it has wide open streets and large buildings 
with fine hotels. 

Soon after leaving Kobe we got into the open sea, 
but kept land in sight nearly all the way. We were to 
call and ship a quantity of tea at a small port called 
Shimuzi, which is rapidly becoming the tea-shipping 
place, as it is near the tea-growing district. Kobe and 
Yokohama will be hard pressed to retain the trade. We 
were not allowed to land at this place. 

Early next morning I was on deck just in time to 
get a sight— the only one I did get— of Fujiyama, that 
flat-topped, snow-capped sacred mountain ; and most im- 
pressive it was. Would that I could have seen more of 
86 



JAPAN 

it ! but weather decreed otherwise ; mist enveloped it and 
it was gone. 

At Yokohama I left the America Mam for land. 
Here, again, at any rate near the harbour, the town is 
distinctly European in size and style of building. It has 
good, well-made roads with electric tramcars in every 
direction. But when he goes behind all this the visitor 
finds the native style of house, built mostly of wood. 
Here I saw what I should imagine was true Japanese 
appearance of the streets, with plenty of florid signs and 
flags hanging out. Most of the people were in gay 
native costume, stumping about on their high wooden 
shoes. In this neighbourhood I thought I discovered a 
reason, beyond possibly the wish to increase their height, 
for their being set up on those pieces of wood ; I looked 
down a side street and it was inches deep in mud. The 
main streets were good and well laid with macadam. 

From Yokohama I went by rail via Tokio to Nikko, 
famed as one of the most beautiful spots in Japan. 
Here are many famous temples with equally gorgeously 
decorated exteriors and interiors. In form they are 
somewhat similar to the Chinese. The roofs are much 
decorated with gilded ornament, and altogether more 
ornate than the Chinese, and, at Nikko at any rate, they 
are kept in better order; the red lacquer is as fresh on 
the posts and windows as if put on yesterday. The 
interiors are very different from the Chinese, which are 

87 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

generally rather dull and dirty looking, with little orna- 
ment. The Japanese seem to lavish all their skill on the 
fine carving, inlaying, and decorating of the interiors. 
To enter them one has to leave one's boots outside and 
put on straw slippers, kept for that purpose. 

They are all very pretty and interesting, but they 
failed to impress me as the Chinese temples did. 

The scenery at Nikko is fine, and in some respects 
like Scottish or Welsh hill country. The rushing, 
tumbling river might easily be one of our home streams. 
I made a delightful excursion by ricksha to Chuzenzi, 
which, with its fine lake and mountain scenery, is an 
ideal place for a foreigner from China to recruit in. 
Hotels with the latest comforts abound. 

The road to Chuzenzi winds away up by the river, 
in places rising high above, with, at one point, a view 
of a very fine and high waterfall ; it pierces deep wood- 
lands and is altogether delightful. It is only because you 
are in a ricksha, pulled and pushed by slightly clothed 
coolies wearing wide umbrella-like hats, that you realise 
you are not at home. 

At Nikko is the world-famous Cryptomaria Road, 
extending for miles and miles. I doubt if it has an 
equal in the world. It is said to be over three hundred 
years old, and I was told the tale of how these grand 
old trees came to be there. 

At a time when wealthy nobles were contributing. 



JAPAN 

each according to his means, to make this road to the 
sacred temples at Nikko, one noble who had not much 
money said that instead of money he would give in 
kind, and undertook to plant the new road on either 
side with cryptomaria trees. This was done ; and to 
this day the trees remain to beautify this roadway, and 
give joy and shelter to those who travel on it. 

They are glorious stately trees, and gaps here and 
there only make the scene more picturesque. I consider 
that these trees are amongst the most beautiful in 
Japan. 

Nikko teems with temples to various deities, one 
rather like another, and all very beautiful. 

My next journey was to an out-of-the-way little 
fishing-village called Katsuura, to reach which I went 
through by rail and beyond Tokio and by ricksha some 
hours' ride, a rather long and tedious journey. On 
arrival my ricksha men, without instructions, took me 
to the principal inn — a purely native one, but for clean- 
liness and attention not to be surpassed. No English 
was spoken there, and, as I spoke no Japanese, the 
situation was rather amusing. 

To obtain a bedroom, I put my head on my hand 
and closed my eyes ; that settled that point, and I was 
led to a clean and bright room on the first floor, with 
sliding panels, wide open on to a verandah from which 
I had a fine view over the town and shore away to^sea. 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

To signify that I was hungry, I held my waistcoat 
out to show that it was slack, and very soon had food 
put before me, some rice, eggs, and tea. I found there 
was no bread and no potatoes, but they obtained some 
small biscuits which served my purpose. While here 
I think I may say I lived the simple life. 

Sitting in my room one evening I heard strains 
of music, and, to my astonishment, the tune was that of 
"Auld Lang Syne." Going on the verandah I found 
that the music came from another room, and the players 
were a young Jap playing the violin, and his companion, 
a lady, playing the piano. I had not expected to hear 
the melody of my native land in this out-of-the-way 
Japanese fishing-village. 

Apparently the natives here were not used to 
foreigners. My appearance outside at once attracted a 
crowd, who followed me wherever I went ; when I sat 
down to sketch they proved almost more curious than 
the Chinese. The policeman of the place was apparently 
apprised of my visit, and came to examine what I was 
doing, but seemed to find no fault and let me go on. 

Tokio is the political capital, and is situated partly 
on low ground and partly on hills. The Sheba temples, 
and many other beautiful and interesting buildings, would 
well repay a far longer visit than I could give them. 

On my return voyage we stopped in the Straits of 

Shimonosaki, on one side of which is the town famous 
90 



JAPAN 

as the place where the Treaty of Peace between China 
and Japan was arranged by Li Hung Chang and Marquis 
Ito. On the other side is Moja. These towns are 
strongly fortified, and all sketching or photography is 
forbidden ; and when, tempted by a very fine sunset, I 
got out my colour-box, it caused quite a sensation on 
board. One of the Japanese officers of the ship at once 
approached me, and said sketching was forbidden. I 
replied by asking if they owned the copyright of the 
sky, and sketched on. A superior officer then came ; but, 
as I was only painting sea and sky, I refused to desist, 
and completed my sketch. They were too much puzzled 
to do anything. To obtain permission for sketching 
takes so long that often a traveller cannot get it within 
the time he is staying at a place, and the officials would 
be well advised to make this an easier matter. 



9i 



CHAPTER XV 

PEI-TAI-HO 

Return from Japan — My Boy's Outfit — We Sail for the North — Wei-hai-wei — Port 
Arthur — Chinwangtao — The Umbrella — Arrival at Pei-tai-ho — Carts and 
Donkeys, Saddles and Bridles — " The Cruet " — Bathing — Signs of 1900 
Troubles — Snipe-Shooting— A Giant Willow-Tree — The Village Blacksmiths 
— A Great Storm and Flood— Rock Temple — The Country Round. 

ON my return to Shanghai from Japan at the 
I end of July, I found it still very hot and 
damp, but only spent a few days preparing 
for my departure north. When going to Japan I left 
my " boy " at Shanghai in charge of my friends. I 
now told him to get what might be necessary in the 
way of warmer clothing for the northern climate and 
colder weather to come later, because at that time I 
proposed to keep this "boy" with me right through, as 
he knew my ways. I was amused to see the way he 
fitted himself out. He was certainly a great swell in 
new clothes — dark satin jacket, white trousers with 
embroidery on the ankle ties, and very grand shoes — 
black satin with green edging above the soles ; and last, 
but not least, a new umbrella of cheap European pattern, 
with a very fine white-metal handle. I was almost 

afraid to give orders to such a gorgeous person. 
92 



PEI-TAI-HO 

We were glad, when the day came for us to embark 
on the China Engineering and Mining Company's S.S. 
Kaiping, to get away from the heat, and the prospect 
of a few days at sea was rather inviting. In look- 
ing round my cabin I found to my amusement that 
the "boy" had hidden his new umbrella in a corner — 
afraid, I suppose, to take it forward to his own quarters 
for fear a compatriot might annex it. We were lucky 
enough to have quite a fine passage up the treacherous 
Yellow Sea, well deserving its name, the water being 
distinctly yellow, thick and muddy, taking, as it does, 
the great waters of the Hoang-ho or Yellow River. 

Our only call was at Wei-hai-wei, where we landed 
a few passengers for their holiday time. Wei-hai-wei, 
ostensibly a British naval station, is more important as 
a watering-place for foreigners from various parts of 
China. It seems to be pleasant and healthy in summer, 
but I do not envy those who are obliged to live in such 
an out-of-the-way place, which in winter must be bleak 
and cold. 

Soon after leaving Wei-hai-wei we saw at some 
distance the famous Port Arthur, the scene of such a 
stern and long siege, and many fierce battles between 
the big Northerner and the little Yellow Man. 

It was dull and wet when we arrived at Chin- 
wangtao in the early morning. This port is quite new, 
and was made by the China Engineering and Mining 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Company to enable them to ship their products at all 
times of the year, Tahu and the Tientsin River and 
Newchang being closed up by ice for many months. 
Before the opening of Chinwangtao and the building of 
the Imperial North China Railway, Tientsin was almost 
cut off from the south during the wnnter, and no goods 
could be imported or exported ; now trade can go on 
uninterruptedly. 

We had but a short journey by rail to our destina- 
tion, Pei-tai-ho, and I told my "boy" to look after my 
baggage and that of the friends with whom I was 
travelling ; and while watching this found he was so 
much taken up with his umbrella that he was neglect- 
ing his duty. I walked over to him, and taking the 
article said, " Now, boy, I look after your umbrella, you 
look after my baggage." Oh, the anxious look he gave 
me as I moved off, and the relief he showed when, all 
being ready, he received back his precious possession ! 

When we reached Pei-tai-ho station, we found donkeys 
for ourselves and carts for our baggage. These carts 
are very heavy, lumbering things, with clumsy wheels 
of solid wood, made in some cases without spokes ; 
they are not exactly circular, though no doubt meant to 
be so. Mules were in the shafts, with a donkey tied 
on at odd points to help pull. We were soon mounted 
and away over the rather shaky bridge spanning the 
river, and along the narrow and rough track called a 
94 



PEI-TAI-HO 

road, about three miles of which had to be covered 
before we reached the noted seaside place. The track 
winds about, at times almost lost in the fields, and we 
were hidden by the tall kowliang, a cereal much grown 
in this part. Up hill and down dale we went, the 
donkey coolies making much noise driving along the 
poor-looking animals, who nevertheless proved able and 
sure-footed. It is rather remarkable that when human 
beings have any difficult road to traverse, where almost 
no other animal can go, they at once turn to the despised 
donkey, the animal which to my mind shows almost 
human sense in its careful discrimination in picking out 
its way. The traveller in almost any country finds this ; 
and even where the donkey through its small size is not 
strong enough, it is the mule, which joins to the size of 
the horse the sagacity and surefootedness of the donkey, 
that is used. The saddles and bridles of the animals we 
had were quite worthy of study. The saddle was nothing 
more than various pieces of padded cloth tied on with 
bits of raw hide and string. No two stirrups were alike : 
one of the pair I had was of the very large antique 
description, suitable for a warrior of old ; the other was 
a modern stirrup of the size fit for a child, so that only 
the toe of my boot could rest on it, whereas on the 
other side I had difficulty to keep the great iron in 
its place. The bridle was of rope and raw hide, with 
no bit, the reins of cord dirty and uncomfortable to 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

hold. During my stay here many miles did I have to ride 
on these little animals, with such wretched accoutrements. 

The house my friends had taken for the season at 
Pei-tai-ho was at what is known as West End, dis- 
tinguishing this part from Rocky Point, where I believe 
various missionaries were the first to establish them- 
selves for the summer months. I do not know how to 
describe the architecture of this place. There is no style 
to which it could be likened. Our house, which my 
host nicknamed " The Cruet," had at a little distance 
a remarkable resemblance to that useful table requisite ; 
there were various little domes coloured blue, and it 
only wanted the handle on the top to lift it by ; but 
all the same I found it a very comfortable abode, with 
a fine view of the sea, and grand sands stretching away 
round the bay. I lived at "The Cruet," but slept at the 
house of another hospitable friend, a little farther west. 

At Pei-tai-ho bathing is the great thing, and is in- 
dulged in by all who can manage it. The water is 
quite warm, and bathers stay in a much longer time 
than is usual at home. 

It was delightful to find the members of our party, 

who had been here for some weeks, the children 

especially, once more looking brown and healthy. And 

yet it was hot ; for a time we had to remain in the 

verandahs during the midday hours, but as August 

wore on the weather became more temperate. 
96 



PEI-TAI-HO 

The Boxers were strong in these parts in 1900, and 
the property of the foreigners suffered much. One sees 
ruined homesteads, perhaps only a bit of wall and 
chimney left standing ; but out of evil came good, and, in 
rebuilding, the owners mostly have chosen better and more 
accessible sites nearer to the beach ; and, as I suppose 
the property owners here (as elsewhere) got some com- 
pensation, perhaps the loss was not very great. Judging 
by the new houses being built, and others enlarged, I 
should suppose that Pei-tai-ho may look forward to a 
time of prosperity. The visitors are largely drawn from 
Tientsin, which is within easy reach by rail ; but Peking 
and other places are well represented by not a few, who, 
like ourselves, took the three days' voyage from Shang- 
hai, in search of fresh sea breezes. 

With cooler weather we took some excursions in the 

neighbourhood, I in search of what might provide me 

with material for sketching. I was invited one day to 

join some friends who were going snipe-shooting, and 

went for the sake of seeing the country. Donkeys were, 

as usual, our means of travel. We passed many ruined 

buildings. China seems full of them, old mud walls 

crumbling away — signs of a time when the population 

was greater than now. We passed through several 

villages, but none looked prosperous, and the people 

were poor-looking and ill-clad. Even the larger houses, 

such as would belong to the headman of the village, 

G 97 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

seemed to have been battered about and left unrepaired. 
The country is hilly and rocky, but the valleys look 
good and fairly well cultivated, kowliang being the 
principal crop. The roads were no more than tracks, 
with great deep ruts made by the wheels of the carts in 
use. The depth of the ruts is determined by the hubs 
of the great wooden wheels. In wet weather these tracks 
become rushing streams, and in riding one has to 
exercise considerable care, as even donkeys can stumble; 
and, though they rarely hurt themselves, the rider may 
get an awkward fall into mud or dust. 

On this ride we had to ford several small streams, 
and one large river at which some of us looked askance ; 
but our leader plunged boldly in, and the water was 
soon up to his saddle. We others followed more gin- 
gerly. I for one put my legs over the donkey's neck, 
and just missed a wetting. At last the ground was 
reached where snipe might be expected, and a few 
coolies proceeded to beat it out — low-lying, swampy 
ground, full of reeds and rushes ; but into it, often 
up to their middles, went the coolies, the guns follow- 
ing up. 

I understood then why our leader did not mind 

getting wet crossing the river. He knew he had to da 

so in going after the snipe. I was not shooting, so 

remained on dry land. The guns did better than when 

at the Tahu, and a few birds were bagged. 
98 



PEI-TAI-HO 

My friend had told me he would show me some- 
thing fine in the way of trees on this trip ; and certainly 
he did. In a small village of little more than mud 
huts, almost hiding a small temple, there was an enor- 
mous willow tree, and, to make the picture more 
complete, underneath, some itinerant blacksmiths were 
at work at a forge, hammering red-hot iron — quite in the 
manner we are accustomed to think of, but rarely see 
at home, when the well-known lines come to mind, 
" Under a spreading chestnut tree." 

To one side stood the wheelbarrow which carried 
the stock-in-trade, a whole outfit for their work, rods, 
iron, bellows, forge, &c., and probably some of the 
younger members of his family. In a country where 
there are almost no roads a vehicle such as this, with 
only one large wheel, must, of course, be best. With it 
the people can drive along the merest track through 
fields or over hills. I felt that such a subject as this, 
showing a phase of purely rural life in China, must not 
be missed, and decided to paint it. I was rather glad 
this fine subject lay on the homeward side of the river, 
as to have to cross and probably get wet, and then sit 
and work for some hours, day after day, would have 
damped my ardour. Next day saw me ready for the 
work, and my boy mounted and carrying some of my 
things. I always carried my drawing, and my boy was 
very cunning in passing on to the donkey coolies most 

99 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

of the articles. I think he felt that all his attention 
was required to sit his steed and look important. 

We reached the spot without incident, and, to my 
delight, found the blacksmith still there and busy. 
On making inquiries, I found he was likely to remain 
for some days, which was good news. But when I 
began fixing my easel and putting up my water-colour 
board, he ceased work, and with all his following came 
to see what I was doing. Soon the whole village was 
round me, but all were polite and smiling. It was only 
natural curiosity that drew them. I was quite prepared 
for this, and had taken the precaution to bring a rope 
with me, which I fixed up on sticks, triangle-fashion ; 
and, sitting within this, I kept them all at a respectful 
distance. 

Very soon the smith returned to his work and left 
me to mine, the usual loafers being divided between us. 
As that day went on and the work proceeded, I found 
that these visitors took an intelligent interest in the 
picture. They do not, as would the same class at home, 
come and look and pass on ; but they discuss with each 
other the merits of the work (my boy told me this), and 
in looking, put their hands up to their eyes, telescope- 
fashion. 

The weather for a time became very unsettled, with 
heavy thunderstorms and accompanying rains. The last 
day of my work at this place a terrific storm burst over 

lOO 



PEI-TAI-HO 

us, and in haste I closed up my things, put them against 
a neighbouring tree, and ran over to the temple ; but 
the rain fell in such torrents that in a few minutes the 
small stream was all over the road, and we had to race 
through it, rescue my things, and carry them to the 
temple, where we stood for perhaps half-an-hour, by 
which time not only the road but all the low ground 
round was deeply flooded. When the storm passed there 
was nothing for it but to mount and ride home through 
the water. Where but a little time before I had sat at 
work was now two feet of water, but the coolies had 
rolled up their nether garments, and the donkeys did 
not mind, so on we went ; where the track was in a 
hollow, it was very difficult to avoid the deep ruts which 
we could no longer see. Farther on, we found what 
ordinarily was a shallow brook now a tearing flood ; and 
the poor little animals had all they could do to keep on 
their feet. More than once I thought we should go down, 
but we got safely over; and on the higher ground, just 
as we neared Pei-tai-ho, the track went along a sort of 
chasm, worn out by carts and water. I was ahead, and, 
hearing an exclamation, turned round to see pride 
humbled. My "boy" was on his back in the sloppy 
mud, and his donkey looking at him, as much as to 
say, "Why have you done that?" But his national 
characteristic — cheerfulness — did not desert him ; he got 
up with a smile and assured me he was not hurt. 

G 2 lOI 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

When I reached home I was told there had been 
a great waterspout burst that day just off Pei-tai-ho ; its 
course had been very close to where the Admiralty yacht 
was moored, on which Vice-Admiral Lambton had come 
up north. And about this time we heard of the disas- 
trous typhoon which caused so much damage and loss of 
life at Hong Kong. The vessel on which friends of ours 
were coming up from Shanghai was luckily in shelter 
at Cheefoo, and their arrival was delayed, so that when 
they reached Chinwangtao the morning after the storm, 
there was no train to take them on to Pei-tai-ho till 
night ; they therefore decided to hire a couple of small 
junks to take them and their baggage to Pei-tai-ho. 
But, on arrival off that place, fresh difficulty arose ; 
there is no pier, and the sea being rough, their junks 
could not run into shore. No one knew they were 
coming in that way ; so they sailed up and down all day, 
trying to attract attention. Late in the afternoon one 
of our party, with the aid of a telescope, made out there 
were foreigners on board, and got a fishing-boat to put 
off and land the weary and hungry travellers. 

A beautiful spot much visited by Pei-tai-ho people 
is the Rock Temple, so called by Europeans because it 
is built on a rocky eminence crowned by some flat- 
topped pine trees — which look as if they had been here 
for ever, so old, gnarled and twisted are they — and with 
the pretty little temple and tea-house snuggling in 



THE ROCK TEMPLE, PEI-TAI-HO 



PEI-TAI-HO 

among the projecting rocks. It is not only a beautiful 

spot to visit and picnic on, in the fresh, fine air, but 

has delightful views all round. Away to the south is 

the sea, the Gulf of Pechili, while to the west stretches 

a fine panorama of softly undulating country, and a 

large river, the Lwan-ho, winding its way to the sea, 

with the Chang-lee Hills sharply defined beyond. To 

the east is more hilly country, and away past Rocky 

Point are the mountains at the back of Shan-hai-kwan, 

where the Great Wall ends at the sea. No wonder the 

missionaries and the merchants and officials thought 

Pei-tai-ho a good place to make holiday at, and rest 

their jaded energies after the indoor life in Tientsin and 

other large cities. I think I remarked that I lived at 

one house and slept at another; and one night, after a 

heavy rainstorm, when I turned out to go to bed, I 

found that even with a lantern it was difficult to find 

my way. I had the choice of two roads — one by the 

shore, the longest, the other through the grounds of 

intervening houses and across some gulleys ; I chose the 

latter, and had got but a little way when out went the 

lantern, but I struggled on in the dark. I got into the 

first gully, thinking I knew the way, only to find myself 

up to the knees in water. I got out of that, and made 

up hill among some trees, and after plunging about for 

some time at last saw some lights ; and making for these 

over many obstacles, I got near enough to know the 

103 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

house. I was next door to my hosts ; but, a high wall 
intervening, I had to make a fresh start and go a long 
way round before I could reach my bed that night. 

It is pleasant to walk along the sandy beach, in the 
evening, towards the west and see the sun setting 
gorgeously behind the Chang-lee Hills and reflecting in 
the quiet waters of the river, near which are some boats 
owned by a few fishermen, who camp on the shore for 
part of the year. The habitations of these men are of 
the roughest — bits of matting, canvas, &c., laid over bent 
canes, and tied down against the wind somewhat like a 
gipsy encampment at home ; rough-looking folk they are, 
but civil enough to the foreigners who buy fish from 
them. 

Before we arrived at Pei-tai-ho there had been some 
nights' excitement at " The Cruet." A robber had 
attempted to break in, and had been frightened off 
only to return another night, when he was caught by 
the house-boy and coolies, and tied up to some post 
until the nearest mandarin could be brought, and the 
case tried there and then and punishment administered. 
When we came we therefore brought a pistol in case 
of further visits of this kind. However, this prompt 
capture and punishment had the happy effect of stopping- 
such things, and our armament was not required. 



104 



CHAPTER XVI 

SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

First Sight of the Great Wall— Vandalism of Japanese Troops— Bad Weather- 
Floods — Railway Bridges carried away — Hotel full of Train-bound Trav- 
ellers-Uphill Ride to the Great Wall — Tradition about It. 



M 



Y next journey Avas a short and easy one to 
Shan-hai-kwan, where I put up at the Railway 
Hotel (which might be much better). The rail- 
way station (Imperial North China Railway) is about 
half a mile from the City Walls. The city itself is 
about three miles from the sea, on the shore of which 
are the great summer encampments for the foreign 
troops which have been in Northern China since 1900. 
A walk or drive soon brought me to the shore, where 
my eyes were gladdened by the sight of the Cameron 
Highlanders, who were enjoying themselves bathing and 
playing games. 

At this point that amazing work, the Great Wall of 
China, ends at the sea, coming down over the mountains 
behind, and over the flat land below, in a zigzag line. 
Standing here, the sea behind and the old wall stretch- 
ing out in front, one can get a good idea of what it 

was in past times, when kept in good order. Let the 

105 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

eye follow it along on its sinuous course, winding about 
up hill and down dale, along the flat ground, crossing 
and bridging streams, passing by and forming an outwork 
of the Old City — then gradually rising and climbing 
up the steep sides of the mountains, lost to sight as 
it disappears over their top ; but you know it goes 
on, farther and farther, across this country that seems 
limitless. It was a big mind that conceived this idea. 
One may think it was easy to carry out in the days of 
autocratic rule, when a conquering despot had but to 
give the order, and his underlings carried it out by 
slave labour. Nevertheless, the Great Wall of China is 
one of the wonders of the world. Walking along the 
top of the wall, between the sea and city near where the 
Japanese have their encampment, I was surprised to 
come on what appeared a dreadful piece of vandalism. 
The Japanese seemed to be making some sort of rifle- 
pit or targets for practice ; but actually they were 
removing material for this purpose from the Great Wall 
itself. In time of war there might be excuse for such 
an act ; but in time of peace I can find none for such 
wanton destruction of this world-wonder structure. I 
cannot think the Chinese authorities were consulted. If 
the Japanese took it upon themselves in their arrogance 
to do this, those responsible should feel ashamed of 
their act. But, alas ! there is too much of this assump- 

tioH of authority shown by the foreigner in China. 
io6 



SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

During my stay at Shan-hai-kwan we had a return 
of the bad weather I had experienced at Pei-tai-ho. 
Rain fell in great quantity, and very soon the floods 
took a serious aspect. I was almost confined to the 
hotel for some days ; the road to the city became im- 
passable, and the main street of the city itself was like 
a rushing river. With a fellow-guest from the hotel, I 
determined to walk along the railway westwards, as we 
heard that the flood in that direction was becoming 
great. With difficulty we got to a greatly swollen river, 
and crossed it on the railway, but found that on the 
farther side the water was already on the permanent 
way. We watched the evening mail-train to Newch- 
wang come slowly through the flood, and then made 
our way back to the hotel. There I found an inquiry 
for me. It appeared the floods were so bad that at 
Pei-tai-ho the passengers could not leave the train, and 
had to travel on to Shan-hai-kwan to stay the night ; 
among them was my nephew from Tientsin. Next day 
there was further stoppage, and at night the mail was 
stopped at Shan-hai-kwan, and travellers were told they 
could go no farther. No less than ten bridges were 
swept away, and I heard tales of great iron girders torn 
away by the flood. It was only by great good fortune 
no lives were lost. 

Many of the travellers were on their way to join the 

Siberian Railway, homeward bound, and were not only 

107 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

delayed but lost their berths, which were booked before- 
hand. Some got back to Chinwangtao and Tientsin, and 
made their w^ay by sea to other points ; but for days the 
hotel was very crowded, and the small service strained 
to the utmost. What hurts one benefits another; and I 
made one friend here from the Legation at Peking, who, 
when I told him my chief object was to get permission 
to paint the Imperial Palaces, offered most kindly to 
write to our Minister, and so forward the matter. 

I, with this gentleman and another, made an ex- 
cursion on donkeys up the mountains to see the Great 
Wall. After passing through the city we found there 
was only a track, very bad through the recent rains. We 
had quite a narrow escape ; we had to pass under an arch- 
way through a spur of the Great Wall, and, having been 
there before, I remarked to my friends that it was partly 
fallen in. We had hardly got through when there was 
a loud crash. We did not wait to see what it was ; 
but on our return journey found the whole arch had 
fallen in, and we had to make our way round and 
over the wall. 

It is quite a long ride up the hillside ; and after 
going as far as the donkeys could take us, we dis- 
mounted, went on foot farther up, and were able to 
see and appreciate what an amount of patient labour 
must have been spent on this wall. 

At this point the first few feet above the ground 

io8 



THE GREAT WALL 



SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

show solid stone masonry, above which are large bricks ; 
and on picking up pieces of this brick I found it was 
not hard, and yet there it had been for all these 
centuries ! At short intervals, and wherever there was 
a bridge over a stream, are watch-towers solidly built 
with battlements. 

No precipitous mountain-side stops the wall. It 
goes on and on, built up in a most marvellous manner ; 
and away above us, on quite a pinnacle, there was an 
outstanding tower from which the country could be 
watched for miles. I was told that the method of 
getting the bricks to the top was this : many goats 
were kept and fed on the hill-tops and then driven 
down and loaded, each with a brick or two. They 
slowly made their way back up to their feeding-ground. 
On the outer or Manchurian side of the wall, at some 
little distance, are forts on prominent positions ; some 
of which, judging by the ruins remaining, must have 
been of considerable extent. 

What a magnificent view one has from this moun- 
tain-side ! Away down the hillside can be seen the 
city, with its old walls and towers and gateways, a 
temple perhaps showing out from the other buildings 
because of its distinctive roof and pink-coloured walls. 
Beyond this you see the railway, the steel rails of 
which run in one continuous line to the other side of 

Europe — crossing two great continents, joining the old 

109 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

and the new. Beyond that shines the blue sea; away 
to the west are the Chang-lee mountains, with here and 
there a sparkling river yet full with flood water, and 
therefore more noticeable. Looking up the wild and 
steep sides of the mountains, one sees the grand old 
wall winding. Browsing peacefully at our feet are 
herds of goats, descendants perhaps of those which 
bore their burden up to build the wall that still stands. 

The city of Shan-hai-kwan, which I think may be 
taken as a fair example of a northern provincial town, 
is laid out in squares, and intersected by a main 
street from south to north and another from east to 
west. There are gateways in the walls at these points ; 
and all roads meet at and under the old Drum Tower, 
the centre of the town. This quaint and picturesque 
old building stands up arching over the junction of the 
main streets of the city, and seems to dominate all 
around it. It contains in the upper portion the remains 
of the drums and other noisy instruments, now no 
longer used. 

The streets are fairly wide, but quite hollow and 
gully-like in form. This is caused by the great wash 
of water from the hills behind, in time of flood, when 
the streets become a tearing racing torrent ; while in 
dry weather the dust is very trying. 

Hardly a building is over one storey in height, and 
the roofs are almost flat, with wide eaves projecting 



SHAN-HAI-KWAN: THE MAIN STREET 



SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

far over the front, and forming almost a shelter in 
themselves. The houses, however, have sun-blinds. 
The streets being so hollow, the backs of the mules 
walking along the centre are just on a level with the 
shop floors. There is no footpath, but the pedestrian 
gets along on the sloping sides of this road as best 
he can in wet weather ; in dry, he may venture to walk 
in the dusty track. 

The colour of the soil is a rich golden yellow, and 
in dry weather, with the sun full on it, is very dazzling. 

The shop signs are very varied, of beautiful design 
and full of colour, each being distinctive of the trade. 
The shoemaker shows wonderful designs of boots and 
shoes. The druggist has a tall stone, covered with 
characters no doubt setting forth and emphasising the 
virtues of all the wondrous cures he sells. The fronts 
of such shops as need not display their goods — the 
fronts that with us would be windows — are covered 
with very beautifully made shutters of open woodwork. 

The military camp being near, the natives are accus- 
tomed to foreigners ; but I found, when I sat down to 
work in the street, that I attracted a great deal more 
attention than I wished for, and for a time I feared 
that I should again have trouble with the authorities, 
as in Shanghai and other cities. Fortunately I escaped 
this, and the few police in the place aided me by keeping 
back the crowd. When it was found that I was making 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

a picture of their street and shops, the shopkeepers 
seemed very pleased, and quite glad to help me in 
any way. 

Having sent off my boy to Pei-tai-ho, I found it 
rather awkward. It would have been worse still had 
the police been troublesome, as I had no means of 
interpreting. I hired a coolie from the hotel ; but he 
could speak no English, and apparently talked largely 
to the people about me, probably inventing all sorts of 
wondrous tales about his foreign master. When I was 
painting a picture which shows the sign of a hotel, 
and on which there is a lantern which is let down, 
lighted, and hauled up at night, this coolie left my 
side; and, walking to the sign, let the lantern down 
and hauled it up again, apparently to explain to me 
its use. At first appearance it looks like a railway 
signal ; but I can assure the reader it is a hotel sign, 
and drawn as exactly as I could do it. 



SHAN-HAI-KWAN : AN HOTEL SIGN 



~:^# 




CHAPTER XVII 

TIENTSIN 

Journey from Shan-hai-kwan — Arrival at Tientsin — The Foreign Settlement — The 
Pei-ho — A Chinese Dinner. 

THE journey by rail from Shan-hai-kwan to Tientsin 
takes the traveller through very varied scenery, 
great mountain ranges lying to the north, while 
to the south he is for a good distance within sight of 
the sea. We crossed wide rivers winding down from 
mountain to sea, and passed various towns, gradually 
coming to the flat land, which has the appearance of 
great stretches of mud ; thereby we knew we were ap- 
proaching the Pei-ho (" ho " means river) and Tientsin. 
Now I felt I was once more back in the Western world. 
Tientsin has a busy station, and, save for the coolies, the 
crowd is mostly foreign. The baggage had to pass the 
Customs, but that was quite a formal matter ; and soon I 
was speeding along in a ricksha to my nephew's house, 
where I was to stay a few days before leaving for Peking. 

I have mentioned that one of my chief objects in 
North China was to get into some of the Imperial Palaces, 
none of which had ever been, to my knowledge, painted 

by a Western artist. I was told that the old palace at 

H 113 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Jehol was very fine, and therefore sent on my introduc- 
tions to our Minister at Peking, Sir John Jordan, asking 
him to send through the proper channel my application 
for such permission. In Tientsin I was introduced to 
a gentleman who was shortly going to Jehol for mission 
work ; as he spoke Chinese and knew the country, I was 
glad to avail myself of such an excellent chance of travel- 
ling in company, and some of my time in Tientsin I 
occupied in preparing for the journey. 

Tientsin as it was before the Boxer troubles of 1900 
no longer exists ; the old native city was demolished 
and its walls levelled, and in its place was built, under 
supervision of foreign engineers, a modern town for the 
Chinese. This is quite apart from the various foreign 
settlements ; and I should think the native who lives 
and has his business there must have benefited greatly 
under the new order of things, as well as the foreigner 
who has to visit the native quarter, which, compared 
with the old native cities, is clean and decent, if not 
quite so picturesque. The Chinese, however, have their 
signs and open shop-fronts and carved woodwork, which, 
even when new, must soon make a street picturesque and 
give it a character seen nowhere else. 

The foreign settlements are large, with fine buildings 

and wide streets, and are more distinctly separated than 

in any other treaty port I have seen. They seem to vie 

with each other in progress. 
114 



AT TIENTSIN 




#•* 




TIENTSIN 

I naturally saw more of the British section, where, 
with the Gordon Hall — one of the strongholds during 
the siege — and the up-to-date hotels, fine club, public 
gardens, great hongs, well-kept and busy streets, there 
was every sign of solid progress and prosperity, although 
there may be just now a commercial cloud over this and 
other commercial centres in the Far East. America's 
financial panic of 1907 had far-reaching consequences. 

The life of the foreigner in Tientsin is much the same 
as in Shanghai or other treaty ports, but Tientsin has 
a very bracing dry climate. The heat, very great for a 
month or two in the summer, is dry. I have heard that 
this has a bad effect on the nervous system of a few 
people, but I venture to say that this is probably the 
healthiest treaty port in China. 

Tientsin has a fine racecourse some little way outside 
the settlement, and the bi-annual races are great events 
and, as at Shanghai and Hong Kong, entirely amateur. 

On the Pei-ho is the usual busy life of a Chinese 
river, having boats of all kinds and sizes — the native for 
the inland traffic, of which Tientsin is the focus for a 
wide area, and the great foreign steamships which ply 
from here, not only to other Chinese ports, but all over 
the world. This being the collecting place for products 
of North China and Mongolia, from whence comes a great 
quantity of wool, skins, furs, &c., traffic flows in from 
all directions, and is shipped to the great Western 

115 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

markets ; and you and I may sit comfortably in our 
homes in Britain, our feet resting on carpets made of 
wool from Tientsin, and our boots the product of skins 
from the district, and our womenfolk dressed in luxurious 
furs brought from far Mongolia on camel-back. 

Soon after my arrival my nephew informed me that the 
compradores of my brother's firm here wished to honour 
me by a dinner. Now I had always rather eschewed 
luxuries, believing that in such a climate as China plain 
fare was best ; but such politeness demanded politeness, so 
I accepted the kindly invitation. As is customary when a 
foreigner is invited to dine, he can take one or two guests 
with him, and my nephew and Mr. Drysdale accompanied me. 
It was with the latter I hoped to travel to Jehol. His know- 
ledge of the language and the food proved useful, and greatly 
helped the entertainment at a restaurant in the native city. 
The tables were lavishly set out in a fine large room. The 
number of small dishes on the table were very numerous, 
and a continuous stream of surprises were borne in by the 
many attendants. My appetite was not great, so that I 
was in a position to pick and choose ; but I had difficulty 
in discovering what each course was. My friends told me 
there were many delicacies on the table, but this did not 
help me in making choice, and I limited myself to tasting 
one or two dishes, and pleading doctor's orders for not 
partaking more heartily of all the good things. One 

dish I noticed in particular contained dark, very shiny, 
ii6 



TIENTSIN 

gelatinous-looking, egg-shaped objects. I was told they 
were a great luxury and very expensive — eggs which for 
a long time had been buried in the ground. I found 
shark's-fin soup rather coarse and salty. 

While dining we were entertained by dancing and 
singing girls. In "The Attache at Peking" there is given 
an excellent description of a Chinese meal, and it almost 
exactly describes that at which I was present : — 

" A Chinese meal exactly reverses the order of things 
which is practised in Europe. First came cups of tea, and, 
when these were all cleared away, two tiny saucers were 
placed before each person. Then the dessert and sweets 
were put on the table, oranges and apples, candied walnuts, 
sweets of all kinds, hemp-seed done up with flour and 
sugar, apricot kernels preserved in oil and dried, and other 
delicacies. Next came the savoury meats ; of these the 
most remarkable were sea-slugs — like turtle-soup in taste, 
bamboo sprouts, sharks' fins, and deer's sinews. All 
gelatinous dishes are the most highly prized ; the famous 
bird's-nest soup is just like isinglass not quite boiled down. 
Finally came a sort of soup of rice. I found it very 
difficult at first to eat with chop-sticks. The manner of 
eating is to dip your chop-sticks into any one of the bowls 
and transfer a morsel to your own saucers, which are not 
changed, neither are the chop-sticks wiped during the 
whole proceeding. If you wish to pay a personal compli- 
ment, you select a tit-bit with your own chop-sticks and 

H 2 117 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 
put it on your neighbour's plate, and he does the same in 
return. This gives the entertainment the appearance of an 
indecorous scramble, for one is continually leaning across 
two or three people to pay some civility. The dishes are 
very rich, and I should think unwholesome in the extreme. 
There were upwards of sixty different eatables put upon 
the table, and I must own that although my chop-sticks 
went into nearly every little bowl, there was not one which 
did not please my taste. Native wine was served to us in 
little cups of the size of our liqueur glasses ; it had rather a 
pleasant taste and was very dry. As soon as the meal was 
over the Chinese gentlemen produced out of their boots 
(which seem an inexhaustible receptacle for everything, 
from tobacco to state papers) small pieces of paper, with 
which they wiped their mouths and ivory chop-sticks ; and 
then came a piece of Chinese politeness which is very 
offensive to Europeans ; for it is good manners here, out of 
compliment to the host, and in token of having eaten well 
and been satisfied, to produce the longest and loudest 
eructations, and Heng-Chi and the two generals left 
nothing to be desired in that respect, making a great 
display of good breeding. Tea and conversation in the 
court of the temple brought my first Chinese entertain- 
ment to a close. I can't tell you how strange it seemed to 
me, to begin with dessert and end with soup." 



ii8 



CHAPTER XVIII 

PEKING 

Arrival at Night — A Ricksha Ride. The Legation and My Visit There — I apply for 
Permission to Go to Jehol and Paint within the Palace There — A General 
Impression of Peking from the Tartar Walls — View of the Imperial Palace — 
The Legation Quarter — The Hata-Men Street. 

THE country between Tientsin and the capital is 
mostly flat, and, seen from the train, not very 
interesting; but the journey is short, and very 
soon I could see in the distance signs of the city. The 
approach is not impressive till you get close to it, when 
the train passes through the outer wall of the Chinese 
city ; then one begins to realise that one is approaching 
a rather wonderful and mysterious place. 

It was the evening of an early October day ; and out of 
the gloom I began to see high gateways, and, away to the 
right, the pinnacle of a circular building which I after- 
wards found was the Temple of the Year, at the Temple 
of Heaven. Then we ran alongside the great Tartar wall, 
part of which was such a menace to the Legations in 1900. 
By-and-by we drew slowly into the station, which is the 
eastern extremity of that long steel line linking Peking, 

the capital of the most ancient civilisation, with — but for 

119 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

the narrow Channel — London, the capital of the greatest 
modern civilisation. 

I had travelled light, in expectation of my further 
journey by road to Jehol, and so was not long in leaving 
the station, and entered Peking through the Water Gate, 
the entrance by which the relief of the Legations was 
effected. But things are changed since 1900. This gate 
is now held by the foreign troops. Passing through it 
I found myself on a well-made road, with a canal on one 
side, and, on the other, modern European buildings. One 
building, blazing with light and with a fine entrance 
and wide-open portals, I found was the Grand Hotel des 
Wagon-Lits, a modern and up-to-date hotel, which I 
made my home in Peking. 

After an excellent dinner, I called a ricksha and told 

the coolie to take me for an hour's run in the city. At 

last I had reached what I considered my goal, and, though 

it was dark, I was impatient to see the city. There is to 

me always something fascinating in seeing a strange city 

for the first time by artificial light. The streets, by the 

way, are lighted by electricity, a sign of the modern, in 

all conscience ! My drive was not a long one ; up Legation 

Street and the Hata-Men Street, and back by a road which 

a few of us, not succeeding in getting hold of the right 

name, afterwards christened " Morrison Street," as the 

famous correspondent of the Times, Dr. Morrison, lives 

there. But I had seen a little of Peking, and went to bed 
120 



PEKING 

with a feeling of satisfaction. My first morning in the 
capital saw me up and about early, keen to get my first 
impressions of this remarkable place. But I had to be 
patient. In spite of the great rains and floods, which 
recently had caused so much damage to the country and 
made travelling inland so difficult, my friend Mr. Drysdale 
was making his preparations to start for Jehol, and I had 
to push on mine. So to the Legation I wended my way 
in the brilliant clear sunlight of an October morning ; and 
those who know how delightful the weather can be in 
October in this part of the world, will know all that 
means. From the hotel I passed out ; and crossing 
the bridge to the right on the roadway bounded on one 
side by the canal which runs through the historic Water 
Gate, and on the other by a high and solid-looking grey 
brick wall which bounds our Legation, I soon came to 
the unpretentious looking entrance to the home of our 
representative in China. As I approached I caught the 
gleam and glitter of the (to a Scot) welcome sight of 
a Cameron Highlander — doing the sentry-go — and then 
turned inside the gates. What a lovely place ! I believe 
that, before coming into our possession, it was a ducal 
palace. Passing the lodge at the gateway, and directed by 
a native gatekeeper, I went along a broad and well-kept 
roadway bordered by beautiful trees and turf, and on the 
right came to a very fine specimen of Chinese archi- 
tecture, a great roofed but open-sided entrance hall. The 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

roof was of beautiful form, and all its timbers and support- 
ing posts gaily coloured in true Chinese fashion. The 
floor, approached by stone steps, was paved. On through 
this, and another somewhat similar but partly closed in, 
I at last came to the Minister's house itself, still of the 
original Chinese architecture. 

Here I was passed by the native servant into the 
entrance hall, very large and beautifully arranged, and 
showing exquisite carving and fretwork in the woodwork 
fittings. From this, with but a few minutes' wait, I was 
shown into the private room of our genial Minister. He 
received me most cordially, and then, as during the whole 
of my stay in Peking, was most kind to me in all ways ; 
so, too, were the members of his staff. 

He told me my application for a passport and per- 
mission to sketch within the precincts of the palace at 
Jehol had been sent in through the Wai-wu-pu (Foreign 
Office), and he had no doubt it would be granted, although 
the time was short in which to get through the formalities 
required, even for such a small thing as this. Now my 
good luck came in. The Minister told me that the 
Legation had permission for a party of English people, 
many of the officers of the Cameron Highlanders and 
a few civilians, to visit and go over the Winter Palace 
within a day or two, and that as some one had dropped 
out he thought I might go instead. I was very pleased 
to have this opportunity. I knew how difficult it was 



PEKING 

for a foreigner to get permission, and my professional 
instinct made me doubly anxious to join this party. So 
I left the Legation in very good spirits, charmed with 
my kindly reception and with the early prospect of 
seeing such a famous place. 

While waiting in suspense, both as to my proposed 
journey to Jehol and the visit to the Winter Palace, 
I had a little time to look round Peking itself, and form 
some impression of the city. From various points of 
the Tartar wall a very good idea can be formed of the 
extent and general scheme, and it at once struck me 
that the city in its first laying out was most carefully 
considered and planned. I say " city," but it might more 
correctly be described as three cities, with even a fourth 
in the centre. 

Say that the traveller is on the wall by the Tsien-Men 
("men" means gate). The inner gate and gatehouse 
over it is in and on the main wall ; but outwards from 
this there is a great square projecting wall, with a gate- 
house most suited for purposes of defence, and at either 
end of this projecting wall (which encloses a considerable 
space of ground) are gates used for ordinary traffic, this 
then converging on this inner central gate. The outer 
central gate is only opened to allow of direct passage 
on state occasions. The upper part of the inner gateway 
has been entirely rebuilt since it was ruined in 1900, 

and is a marvellous example of this sort of building. It 

123 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

rises to a considerable height, with great red pillars 

supporting the different projecting roofs and floors of 

each storey, and is most gorgeously painted and gilded. 

It does not seem from this that the modern Chinaman 

has lost any of his cunning and design in such buildings. 

This, the Tsien-Men, is the chief gate in the Tartar 

wall ; and supposing the traveller to stand on this part 

of the wall, he will have, stretching out to the south, 

but twice that much in width from east to west, the 

Chinese city; at his feet, right under the wall, is the 

railway station — then a narrow piece of water, the old 

moat, over which the road is carried by a very fine wide 

marble bridge with balustrades of beautiful design, and 

beyond a great painted wooden pailau. Looking straight 

away south, he will see the main street, running right 

out to the Yungting-Men, the gate of the Chinese city 

wall. Near by are crowds of rather squalid-looking 

houses; beyond them is a great open space on either 

side of the road ; and again on each side of this space 

are masses of trees, those to the left being in the grounds 

surrounding the Temple of Heaven, and on the right 

the Temple of Agriculture, and the pinnacles and roofs 

of these wonderful buildings can be seen peeping out 

of the trees. • Now turn north and you have, almost 

within a square, the great Tartar city. In its centre 

is the Imperial city, enclosed in pink-coloured walls, and 

within that again the Forbidden City and Winter Palace. 
124 



PEKING 

When the Northern race conquered China, they ar- 
ranged their capital with due regard to their own safety, 
separating the conquered Chinese and keeping them out- 
side their city, and again enclosing the Imperial residence 
within its own walls. 

On the north side of the walls, quite close to the 
Tsien-Men, begins the great state entrance to the For- 
bidden City, this entrance being only used on state 
occasions by the Imperial family, as when they go and 
return from making sacrifice at the Temple of Heaven. 
The first part of this entrance, and all that is visible 
to the onlooker, is a great square stone-paved yard, sur- 
rounded by a very beautifully worked open marble wall ; 
only the tops of the pillars show anything of the original 
white ; it is not in good repair, and there is a roadway 
passing round three sides of it. It is splashed with mud 
and damaged by traffic and passers-by ; and as it is close 
to the chief gate, the Tsien-Men, the traffic is very great. 
There is here one continuous stream of foot-passengers, 
rickshas, Peking (and other) carts, trains of camels, mules, 
ponies, all entering or leaving and pushing and jostling 
through the narrow gateway, in the centre of which stands 
a native policeman, endeavouring to guide the different 
strings in or out ; in wet weather he stands on the large 
stone on which the great gates close, to keep out of the 
slush and mud ; it is then very bad, the roadway being of 

old flat paving-stones with great ruts and holes. 

125 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Beyond this large courtyard rises the first Imperial 
gate, with its great yellow roof gleaming and glistening 
in the sun, and its red pillars and wonderfully painted 
woodwork under the wide projecting eaves. From the 
elevation of the wall can be seen beyond more yellow 
roofs and red walls, and in the distance, on Coal Hill, 
still more gleaming out among trees. Talking of trees, 
Peking might almost be described as a woodland city; 
seen from this height it has the effect of great masses 
of green, with the roofs of houses peeping up here and 
there, and the yellow palaces dominating the whole. 

The part of the Tartar wall extending from the 
Tsien-Men to the Hata-Men is now held by the inter- 
national troops, a sure preventative to its ever being the 
menace it was in 1900 to the safety of the foreign Lega- 
tions. All of them are now placed within what is 
known as Legation Quarter, bounded on the south by 
this section of the Tartar wall, and on the east, west, 
and north, by their own walls and ditches. Outside this 
a great clear space was created after the 1900 siege, by 
clearing away masses of native houses, and so removing 
the cover under shelter of which the Boxers were able 
to work their way close up to the Legation. 

Within the Legation Quarter it is difficult to believe 

that one is in China, and in Peking — of all places — so 

absolutely European has it become. Wide streets, well 

laid out with macadam, paved side-walks, good drainage, 
126 



PEKING 

&c. — these improvements, I believe, have all been made 
since 1900. The buildings of the Legation, and of the 
Customs and the few private houses, are nearly all 
modern and of good style. There is within this quarter 
only one large shop or store. The foreigner is not 
allowed to trade in Peking, excepting with such goods 
as are necessary for the resident foreigners. The Wagon- 
Lits Hotel is also near the Water Gate. The Legations 
are all within spacious grounds. The ordinary Chinese 
are not allowed access to this quarter if their business 
is not known. I have even known my boy stopped if 
far in advance of me — and, recalling the past, one feels 
this is a right and necessary precaution. I passed up 
Legation Street and into Hata-Men Street, which is 
perhaps one of the chief streets, and soon saw the dif- 
ference. I was in China again ! This street, long and 
straight, practically dividing this part of the Tartar city 
from south and north, is very wide ; and the roadway, 
which, I believe, was a very few years ago (in the old- 
time style) a deep gully along which passengers, carts, 
and animals made their way as best they could through 
mud or dust, is now in the centre part well-laid mac- 
adam with a deep drain at either side, and in between 
that and the houses is a wide but rough and dusty — in 
wet weather muddy — roadway. Between the old and new 
are planted young trees, showing that in adopting new 

ways the Chinese keep their ideas of what is beautiful. 

127 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Now a curious feature appears. To the old, rough, 
and badly made part of the roads on either side is rele- 
gated the heavy traffic of the unimportant persons, camel 
trains, heavy carts with mules, barrows, and such like, 
while on the hard well-made new road run the carriages 
now largely used by official Chinese ; rickshas, and 
foreigners riding or in any vehicle, Peking carts (used 
by officials or foreigners) being also allowed. Many 
times have I seen a heavily laden cart stuck in the mud 
of the old side roads. 

Along this wide thoroughfare are most of the curio- 
shops, and, therefore, to this street foreigners make their 
way ; but, if wet, it is very unpleasant to get from shop 
to shop on this horrid old track. At various points the 
street is spanned by great ornamental memorial arch- 
ways, or pailaus, one very noticeable being of fine 
marble, erected to the memory of Baron von Kettler, 
the German Minister who was basely assassinated in 
1900. 

The city, as I have said, is well planned — great 
streets intersecting it from gate to gate and crossed by 
others, dividing the whole up into squares ; thus making it 
comparatively easy for the stranger to find his way 
about. This cannot be said of Canton or other Chinese 
cities, with their maze of narrow twisting alleys. 

The cross streets from east to west have, of course, 
to diverge to get round the Forbidden City. The main 
128 



PEKING 

streets are all more or less relaid with macadam, and 
fairly good, but the by-streets are still bad, and if one 
has occasion to go along them it is not always pleasant ; 
but Peking is far ahead of any other Chinese city I have 
seen, in cleanliness and good order. There is a large 
force of well-drilled police, whom I found obliging and 
ready to help in directing one about. Where foreigners 
of all nations live within the walls of a city, as they do 
here, the people are naturally more accustomed to see 
them about, and, therefore, they excite little curiosity ; 
and in the Hata-Men and kindred streets their advent 
is hailed with well-hidden pleasure, for the foreigner is 
the best customer for these dealers in old furniture and 
curios. The foreigner pays the best price and has the 
least knowledge — two things which rather please the 
shopkeeper. 

To visit Peking without going to see these shops 
would be to miss a great deal. I spent many pleasant 
hours among them, and saw very beautiful articles. The 
Peking furniture is very distinct from the Cantonese. 
Peking people mostly use a beautifully coloured, reddish- 
brown wood, and the carving is in low relief and at 
times very delicate. It is also the collecting-place for 
curios of all kinds from all Northern China. 

The Chinese are great connoisseurs and keen buyers, 

and the foreigner has only followed them in this. But 

nowadays prices rule very high. I heard it said frequently 

I 129 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

that similar curios can be bought at home as cheaply 
and as good as in Peking. 

Till quite recently Peking was a most inaccessible 
place, and not very comfortable to stay in when the 
traveller did get there ; and to Western people it has 
always been more or less a city of mystery. No 
wonder that, becoming within the last few years com- 
paratively easy to get at and reasonably comfortable 
to stay in, it is now being made a tourists' centre for 
the Far East. With the Siberian Railway bringing it 
within fifteen days of London, we may probably soon 
find it a fashionable resort of wealthy travellers for, 
at any rate, a short time in the year. 



130 



CHAPTER XIX 

VISIT TO THE WINTER PALACE 

Drive to the Gates— Reception There— A Chinese Palace— The Architecture and 
Decoration — Bronzes— White Marble Lanterns — Boats on Lotus Lake — The 
Prison-house of the Emperor — The Dragon Screen — The Dagoba, a View of 
It — The Emperor's Garden. 

I WAS glad to find I was included in the party 
about to visit the Winter Palace, and, engaging a 
ricksha, went over to the Legation. There I found 
all our party waiting, anxious to start to the mysterious 
palace from which all these threatening, then wheedling, 
notices and edicts issued to the crowded besieged, within 
the very walls of the Legation where we now stood. 
Now we were going as honoured guests to view the 
palace of that autocratic ruler the Dowager Empress. 

Our party numbered from twenty to thirty ladies and 
gentlemen. Many were officers of the Camerons, and 
there w^ere a few travellers who were staying in Peking. 
We went under the convoy of a member of the Legation 
staff. Most of us were in rickshas, a few in carriages, 
and some in a motor. Yes — a motor in Peking in 1908! 
There are, I think, two motors kept for hire by an 
enterprising foreigner. The new roads in the city and 
the Imperial Road to the Summer Palace make the use 

131 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

of the motor possible, but it is restricted to these. We 
entered the Imperial City by the gate on the western 
part of the southern wall, and our way took us along 
outside the wall of the Forbidden City for some distance. 
This inmost wall of all is of coarse red, and of con- 
siderable height and thickness, with battlements and at 
intervals watch-towers. At each corner these have the 
appearance of pavilions, with beautiful roofs in several 
tiers and the Imperial yellow tiles, which are also used 
on the tops of the walls ; under the wall is a white fosse, 
or ditch, full of water. We then turned to the left ; and 
passing through a gate with sentries into a large open 
space, still outside the Forbidden City, we crossed this 
and went within the sacred precincts at a point between 
the palace building and Prospect (or Coal) Hill, which 
is an eminence on the north, with various yellow-tiled 
pavilions or temples, from which extensive views of the 
city may be obtained. To this hill, however, we were 
not admitted. We now came to an inner gate, at which 
we dismounted from our various conveyances and 
gathered together, ready to be received by the high 
officials detailed by the Wai-wu-pu for that purpose. 
Soon they appeared from inside the gates, in full dress 
according to their rank ; and picturesque they looked, as 
they stood in this gateway in their many coloured robes, 
showing beautiful embroidery — to denote their rank — on 

their breasts and backs, their high satin boots, and 
132 



VISIT TO THE WINTER PALACE 

plumed hats with the peacock-feather sticking out be- 
hind. They were quite in keeping with their setting ; 
and it was we prosaic-looking modern-clad foreigners 
who were the wrong note in the picture. After we had 
all been presented, they led the way within. The whole 
place, though showing signs of age, is in fairly good 
order. I was told much money has been spent on 
repairs since 1900. The buildings are of the same form 
as the temples ; indeed it is hard to tell which is temple 
and which is audience-hall or residential building, though 
perhaps the wooden lattice-work windows are more in 
evidence at the latter, some of which have glass, but 
more often thin paper, inside the lattice-work. The 
woodwork is very good, and in many designs. 

In Europe we think of a palace as a very large and 
extensive building, but it is not so in China. The 
Chinese palace consists of numerous groups of buildings, 
impressive rather from their designs and places than 
from the size. Another feature is the vastness of the 
courtyards in which they are placed. 

As in Rome, St. Peter's always appeared to me to 
be most impressive and greatest when approached from 
the immense square in front, so do the Chinese palaces 
and temples gain in the same way. 

Through such a great courtyard, then, we passed on 
to an oblong entrance-hall, and from that into the 
enormous courtyard, in which, I believe, audiences are 

12 133 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

at times held. There you see where the chief mandarins 
have their places. There is a glitter as of gold from 
the many gorgeous, sun-lit, yellow-tiled roofs, with their 
ridges decorated by symbolic monsters, which take 
curious forms in the light and shadow of the blazing sun, 
and the curved gable ends of the roofs rising in fantastic 
shapes. Away beyond this is the great audience-hall, 
which only the great ones are ever allowed to enter. 

But what lavish architecture is seen here ! the 
splendid painted and decorated woodwork, showing, as 
all this sort of decorative ornament in China does show, 
the predominance of the dragon, with the peacock's 
tail, blue and green. I was rather amused to see a dis- 
tinctly modern touch in this decoration — done, of course, 
since the Dowager Empress's return. On some of the 
beams were painted buildings and streets, with electric 
lamps, sea-pieces, modern war-vessels, &c. 

In the courtyards are wonderful works in bronze — 
stags, and long-legged cranes, white marble lanterns higher 
than a man, gilded basins with gold-fish. It is lavish, 
but withal a restraint, which only adds to beauty. 

The Chinese fully appreciate that if a beautiful and 
intricate piece of workmanship, either art or craft, is to be 
shown to full advantage, it should be by itself; it must 
have a space round it, so that one can see the full 
effect. 

I passed on with others ; but I felt as though I were 
134 



VISIT TO THE WINTER PALACE 

in dreamland, so real it seemed. I had read of such a 
place, but it was hard to realise that I was actually 
seeing it. We were rowed across the Lotus Lake, in 
which are some tracts of clear water for the boats ; the 
rest seems one solid mass of plants. We sailed near 
the island on which was the prison-house of the 
Emperor — a pretty prison, its pavilions and summer- 
houses in quaint little gardens, but a prison none the 
less. Here is that wonderful marble bridge now once 
more sacred to the use of the ruler, but ill-used like all 
else here by the ruthless invader and righteous revenger 
a few years ago. Near by is a gorgeous green-and- 
yellow pailau, and behind this the matchless dragon 
screen, which is of considerable size and wonderfully 
decorated with dragons in high relief; its glorious 
colour is beyond description. We saw, towering above, 
the Dagoba — the Mohammedan temple, built for the 
wife of an emperor who was of that religion. Who 
shall say the Chinese are not tolerant ? 

All religions exist and even flourish in their midst. 
We climbed this hill by tortuous steps and winding 
paths, to find more beautiful marble and bronzes ; then 
a long straight staircase, and the top is reached — and 
spread out before us is the Imperial Palace, the For- 
bidden City, the Lotus Lake, Coal Hill, and all the 
wonders I had heard of. There they all lay at our feet, 
glittering in the sunlight, whilst away beyond were the 

^35 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Tartar city walls and gateways, and the faint outline 
of the western hills. 

Amongst the most beautiful and peaceful places per- 
haps in this fairy palace is the Emperor's garden, 
shaded by trees and spotted by sunlight, the stone- 
paved walks bordered by sculptured marble and master- 
pieces of bronze ; it is an ideal place for meditation, but 
we had no time to see even a tithe of the wonders. 

We were shown some private rooms, but not allowed 
to enter. These had glazed windows, and through them 
we could see rooms very beautifully fitted and furnished, 
and fine porcelain vases on carved wood stands. 

I longed to be able to sketch in this wonderland. I 
knew this was hopeless, not only because of the refusal 
I had already received, but because we were told the 
Court would shortly return here from the Summer 
Palace. 

Once more we entered the boats, and were slowly 
rowed back across the lake, some members of the party 
pulling lotus flowers as mementoes of their visit. Rick- 
shas again, and the famous Winter Palace of Peking 
became once more a dream. 



136 



CHAPTER XX 

PEKING: TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 

Disappointment — Forbidden to Paint in Jehol Palace — Journey Abandoned — I go to 
the Temple of Heaven — Entrance, and Through the Parks — The Temple of 
the New Year— The Emperor's Robing Temple — The Sacrificial Altar — 
Peaceful Work. 

THE night before the day appointed for our start, 
I had a visit from a member of the Legation 
staff, bearing a passport for the journey to Jehol ; 
but with it the news that the permission to sketch within 
the palace precincts was refused. My friends of the 
Legation suggested that if I went to Jehol I should 
probably on the spot be able to arrange matters. But 
this seemed to my Western mind too slight a chance to 
depend on ; I did not feel that it was hopeful enough for 
me to make an arduous journey, seeing that the storms 
had made rivers unfordable, and the roads very bad, and 
a long roundabout route would have to be taken. After 
much discussion I reluctantly determined to abandon this 
journey. I asked Mr. Drysdale to write to me from 
Jehol and tell me anything he could. 

But what annoyed me still more was that this refusal 
made it also apparently hopeless to attempt to get within 
the Imperial Palaces in or near Peking. " Red tape " exists 

137 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

in China, as in our own country ; and during the next few 
weeks I gave much thought as to how I was to untie 
that piece of red tape which kept a harmless artist from 
sketching, and showing to those at home, his ideas of the 
beauties of Chinese Imperial homes. I felt that to show 
them my intentions were solely artistic was my only way. 
Meantime I had Peking to levy for subjects for my pencil 
and brush, and a rich field it is ; none finer have I seen ; 
and at this time of the year, October, the weather is the 
most pleasant and reliable. 

One of the first notable places I determined to paint 
was the Temple of Heaven. The entrance to this place is 
quite easy for a European — it simply means a ten-cent 
payment at each of the gates. The ordinary tourist who 
is going to see the many temples, all appertaining to the 
Temple of Heaven, has many payments to make. 

The entrance to the Temple of Heaven is about two 
miles out in the Chinese city. I made the journey in 
rickshas, one for myself and one for my boy — a new boy, 
by the way, lent to me for the time by one of my friends 
in Tientsin. The boy carried most of my working 
materials. Leaving the hotel we crossed the canal, passed 
the American Legation, and skirting the great entrance to 
the Imperial Palaces, went out under the imposing Chien- 
Men on to and over the beautiful marble bridge, through 
a great pailau, and away out to the long, straight, and 
wide road lined on either side by stalls and booths of 
138 



FACSIMILE OF PASSPORT 







f^ 



-ft 





To face p. 138. 



PEKING: TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 

all kinds, with the shops behind these. The first part 
of this road is new macadam and good, but some distance 
out one comes to another marble bridge of very pretty 
design. This we do not cross, but went to one side and 
over a commonplace timber bridge, the marble bridge 
being kept for Imperial use. Then we began to bump 
along the old paved road. A little of this goes a long 
way ; but soon we turned off to the left, and reached the 
outer gate in the wall surrounding the grounds, where the 
greatest of China's great temples is placed. 

Inside the gate, having duly paid my ten cents (about 
twopence), I found myself in what was like a large English 
park, with stretches of grass and great trees, and groups 
of black cattle which are bred and kept here for sacrificial 
purposes ; they are rather like " Black Angus " cattle. On 
through this park we sped in our rickshas till we reached 
another high wall, with the usual three gates, and from 
here we had to walk. 

Another ten cents, and we enter, by a small side gate, 
more park land ; but we see signs of buildings, and soon 
come to another wall with more gates ; ten cents again, 
and we enter, to find ourselves in full view of the Temple 
of the Year. This great building is circular and stands 
high, with terraces and balustrades of marble, all carved 
and sculptured with designs of dragons, fish, and all the 
mythical creatures in which these mystical people delight. 

The architectural forms here show, as in all buildings 

139 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

in China — religious, Imperial, and domestic — that the 
number three, or a multiple of it, is of great moment, a 
sacred sign. There are three of these marble terraces, 
rising one above the other ; and in the third is the huge 
temple itself. 

The building is carried and held by the usual great 
coloured pillars, on which rests the triple roof, covered with 
glazed tiles of a wonderful blue ; to see the play of the 
blazing sunlight on those shining blue tiles and red 
painted woodwork, and on the gleaming marble balus- 
trades and terraces, is one of the grandest sights in the 
world. 

From this I made my way to other temples of various 
forms, all showing great beauty. There was one with a 
green-tiled roof which, for the quality of the colour, was 
very remarkable. 

From the Temple of the Year there is a series of temples, 

each used by the Emperor when he comes here to perform 

the sacred rites of his office. The last of all the covered 

buildings is the Emperor's robing temple. It is of 

exquisite form and colour, the same wondrous blue tiles 

being used. It is from this temple that he comes to the 

great open-air sacrificial altar. The form of this altar is 

circular ; it is enclosed within two circular walls of brick, 

plastered and painted red, and covered with blue tiles and 

pierced at regular intervals by groups of gateways, three in 

each group, each with tall and massive but simple pailaus. 
140 



PEKING: THE EMPEROR'S ROBING 
TEMPLE, IN THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 



PEKING: TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 

The altar is of white marble, and rises in three terraces 
to the centre and topmost, in the middle of which is set 
up a plain rough stone, looked on by the Chinese as 
holding the position of the centre of the universe. 

In the outer enclosures can be seen the buildings on 
which the actual burnt-offerings or sacrifice of the black 
cattle is made. 

My description of this, the most beautiful and im- 
pressive example of architecture in existence, is lamentably 
wanting; no words of mine can describe it. But let any 
one stand, say, in the courtyard in front of the Emperor's 
robing temple, and look over this scene, and I think they 
must feel impressed. First you see the tall stone gate- 
ways, beautiful in simplicity and ruggedness, and serving 
to show up by contrast the more finished beauty of the 
wonderfully designed, carved, and sculptured marble of the 
terraced altar, with the most gorgeous roof of all overhead, 
the blue sky, and the sun sending down his rays of gleam- 
ing light on these old terraces, casting shadows from the 
pillared balustrading, showing the cunning work on the 
steps, and toning and beautifying the whole into the 
most beautiful and impressive picture I have ever 
looked upon. 

What would I not give to see this place at the time 

when those mysterious rites of worship are carried out 

in all the barbaric splendours of the country? 

To describe the many other temples within this 

141 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

lovely park would be superfluous, because the lesser 
temples are all much alike, and I fear that all suffer by 
comparison with the greater one. 

Many days did I spend in this quiet place, working 
in great comfort, taking my lunch with me, enjoying 
the crisp sunlight of autumn, occasionally seeing a 
foreign visitor being shown round ; whilst almost my 
only onlookers were the few coolies employed to pull 
up some of the weeds in the courtyards. I say some, 
because they seemed purposely to leave many, and most 
of their time was spent in talking to each other. 

I have remarked how easy it is for foreigners to 
obtain entrance to this, the most sacred place in China. 
It was not so before 1900, when our troops took, and 
encamped in, the park to which they have ever since 
exercised the right of entry. One day when I was 
sitting peacefully at work in one of the outer rings of 
the altar, I heard the steady tramp of many booted feet ; 
and to my surprise, through the gateways of the sur- 
rounding walls (the very gateway which would be used 
by the Emperor), came a company of the Cameron 
Highlanders. Right through and up the steps they 
marched, and stood round admiring the view from the 
" Centre of the Universe." 

I understand that very few Chinese except high 

officials have ever seen this place, it being difficult for 

them to obtain admission, and I believe no Chinese 
142 



PEKING: THE TE:^IPLE OF HEAVEN, THE 
SACRIFICIAL ALTAR 

The Emperor's way from his Robing Temple — behind the 
spectator — is through the central gateway and up the steps to the 
sacrificial altar of the Temple (" The centre of the universe "). 



PEKING: TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 

women are ever allowed within the walls. A foreigner, 
an official of high rank in the Chinese Service, drove 
out with his wife to visit this place, having with them 
a guest, a young Chinese lady. She was refused ad- 
mission, and nothing would induce the gatekeeper to 
allow her within ; so my friends, who would not go 
without her, returned to Peking without seeing the 
temples. 

Although the ordinary Chinaman is not allowed 
entrance, there is no objection made to the native 
servant of a foreigner : my boy was with me always, 
and was in great glee at seeing such a place. 

From Martin's "Lore of Cathay": "When taxed with 
ingratitude, in neglecting to honour that Being on whom 
they depend for existence, the Chinese uniformly reply, 
' It is not ingratitude, but reverence, that prevents our 
worship. He is too great for us to worship. None 
but the Emperor is worthy to lay an offering on the 
altar of Heaven/ In conformity with this sentiment 
the Emperor, as the high-priest and mediator of his 
people, celebrates in Peking the worship of Heaven 
with imposing ceremonies. 

"Within the gates of the southern division of the 
capital, and surrounded by a sacred grove, so extensive 
that the silence of its deep shade is never broken by 
the noises of the busy world, stands the Temple of 
Heaven. 

143 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

" It consists of a single tower, whose tiling of resplen- 
dent azure is intended to represent the form and colour of 
the aerial vault. 

" It contains no image, and the solemn rites are not 
performed within the tower, but on a marble altar which 
stands before it ; a bullock is offered once a year as a burnt 
sacrifice while the Master of the Empire prostrates himself 
in adoration of the Spirit of the Universe. 

" This is the high place of Chinese devotion, and the 
thoughtful visitor feels that he ought to tread its courts 
with unsandalled feet. 

" Dr. Legge, the distinguished translator of the Chinese 
classics, visiting Peking (some years after this was written), 
actually 'put his shoes from off his feet' before ascending 
the steps of the great altar. Yet, in 1900, this sacred spot 
was converted into a barracks for British troops ! 

" For no vulgar idolatry has entered here ; this moun- 
tain top still stands above the waves of corruption, and on 
this solitary altar there still rests a faint ray of the primeval 
faith. 

"The tablet, which represents the invisible Deity, is 
inscribed with the name of Shang Li, the Supreme Ruler ! 
and as we contemplate the majesty of the empire prostrate 
before it, while the smoke ascends from his burning sacri- 
fice, our thoughts are irresistibly carried back to the time 
when the King of Salem officiated as * Priest of the Most 

High God.' 

144 



CHAPTER XXI 
THE LAMA TEMPLE 

Description — The Noise House — Lama Students — Trouble with One — Friend- 
ship with the Priests — Open-air Worship— A Priest uses his Beads — 
A Lesson in Perspective — The Great Buddha — Dress of the Lamas. 

THE Lama group of temples is in the north-east 
corner of the Tartar city, and was built as an 
Imperial Palace by the son of the famous Kang- 
hi. The entrance is at the northern end of the Hata- 
Men street. There is a fine specimen of a highly de- 
corated pailau in front of the first gateway. Neither the 
priests nor students bear a good character. I was told 
they were of the lowest, and can well believe it ; but 
I did not concern myself with this, my thoughts being 
directed to the question whether they would allow me 
to work in peace. Passing in by the third gateway, I 
found myself in a large paved courtyard surrounded by 
a high red wall roofed with yellow tiles. In front of 
me was a yellow-roofed temple raised from the courtyard 
and reached by a flight of stone steps, at each end of 
which were gigantic and most beautifully wrought bronze 
lions. The Lamas, being under direct Imperial patron- 
age, use the Imperial yellow. 

K 145 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

In each corner of this courtyard is a double-roofed 
sexagonal building covering memorial tablets. The one 
on the right, near the gate, is used as a sort of drum 
tower. I might more correctly describe it as a noise 
house. Here are not only drums, but other instruments 
on which, at stated hours, the most hideous noises are 
made, to call or direct the students to the various 
prayers and ceremonies. There is also a sort of horn 
which, blown by the strong-lunged Lama gatekeeper, 
emits a horrible roar. It brought into this courtyard 
swarms of yellow-robed students, boys in ages ranging 
from about twelve or fourteen to about twenty. They 
added to the noise. 

When I was seen to put up my easel, and on it a 

sheet of white board, there was a rush made for me. 

They crowded up so close as almost to overwhelm me, 

and at first refused to move at all. I told my boy to 

drive them back ; but he was too frightened to do that, 

and, when I told him to speak to them, he made the 

excuse that they " no b'long Chinese, all same Lama 

man." I had, therefore, to put my shoulder to, and 

managed to push them back and make a small circle ; 

but they did not all like this. Fortunately for me, that 

horn roared again, and in a moment I was left. They 

rushed off towards the centre of the courtyard. Priests, 

apparently their teachers, had arrived. The youths 

divided into groups, each with a teacher who proceeded 
146 



THE LAMA TEMPLE 

to harangue them. As there were at least six or eight 
groups, and the teachers were all lecturing at once, the 
students joining in at times, it was a perfect Babel of 
sound, and I began to wonder how long I could work 
in such a din. But many months' work throughout 
China had impressed on me the value of patience. 
The noisy scene was one of splendid barbaric beauty. 
The wide paved courtyard, with fine trees dotted about 
at either side — the great yellow-roofed temple, with wide 
steps leading up to it — the lesser buildings at the cor- 
ners — made a most impressive setting for the groups of 
yellow-robed students gathered in groups first, and then, 
at a fresh signal, all joining in one central group round 
a priest and kneeling on the stone pavement, with the 
brilliant sunlight over all. A tree or bit of building 
cast a shadow here, and emphasised the light there, 
showed up the newer yellow robe against the older, dis- 
coloured one, glinted on a bit of red under-dress or blue 
sock. I was indeed fortunate to see such a ceremony 
on my first visit at the Lama Temple. This open-air 
worship and lecture takes place once a month, and I 
took care to be present on subsequent occasions, by 
which time I was not so much an object of curiosity 
to the Lamas. During my first day or two at this place 
I had considerable difficulty with some of the students. 
They would stand right in my view, and were not very 
ready to move when asked. One day a biggish youth 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

persistently stood blocking my view. I signed to him 
to move ; but he took no notice. I told my boy to tell 
him he was in my way, and to move to one side. I 
saw him answer my boy, but still he did not move. 
My boy reluctantly told me, " He talkee this b'long he, 
no' b'long you." I quietly laid down my palette; and, 
with a sudden movement, I had him by the scruff of the 
neck, and ran him across the courtyard and out of the 
gate. I walked quietly back and went on with my work, 
remarking to my boy, " Now b'long my." The crowd 
laughed, taking it all as a huge joke. 

By this time I may say I had quite made friends with 
some of the priests, who had put the students back from 
obstructing my view. A day or two after this, sitting in 
the courtyard with the usual crowd, there was a sudden 
crash behind me and a yell from some of my onlookers ; 
but it was only fear. A brick had been heaved over the 
wall — at me, I suppose — but it did no harm. Another day, 
either the same or another young Lama (I had not taken 
enough notice to distinguish) again persisted in standing in 
front of me, and I was, through my boy, remonstrating, 
when a priest saw the trouble ; without a moment's hesita- 
tion he plucked off his beads (great, heavy things, often 
carried over the left ear), and going up to the youth 
started to belabour him over his shaven head with them ; 
and on the youth going off, followed him up and thrashed 

him right round the courtyard. Coming back to me, he 
148 



THE LAMA TEMPLE 

smiled broadly, and told my boy to tell me, if I was bothered 
again, I was to thrash my tormenters well ; but his punish- 
ment sufficed — I had no more trouble with them. 

I had one day a most amusing argument, without words, 
with one of the priests. I noticed he was talking to my 
boy and others, and pointing to my picture and to the 
subject. I found that he said, as the boy put it to me, 
" Your picture no proper." "Why?" said L The picture 
was the accompanying illustration. There are three doors 
to the temple, and in front of the centre one, on the stone 
courtyard, is a rough wooden chair (it is hidden by the 
figures in my picture) on which, at certain ceremonies, the 
living Buddha of this temple would sit. From my point 
of vision that chair appeared to be under the farthest west 
door (in reality it is in front of the centre door); and, as the 
priest knew it was in the centre, he said I was wrong. I 
pulled him forward and held a pencil up in front of his 
nose, and told my boy to tell him to look past that and see 
where the chair came ; then I walked him along till in front 
of the central door, and again made him look past the 
pencil, and then farther still ; this time he found the chair 
was under the eastern door ; then back to my picture, and 
again showed him how it was I got it where it appeared to 
me. He then understood, and most solemnly kowtowed 
to me, and lectured and demonstrated to the crowd all 
about it. For many days this same priest would bring 
others to show them the wonders of perspective drawing 

K 2 149 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

as shown to him by a barbarian artist ; and I think this 
little incident helped to give me greater comfort and quiet 
for my work in this temple, where, with the little exception 
mentioned, I had a quiet time and was always greeted 
smilingly. 

I frequently took my lunch here, and was watched most 
curiously by the crowd — Lamas, coolies, and occasionally 
Mongolians — many of whom, in the train of the Dalai 
Lama, were lodged at this temple. 

In one of the temples in this lamaserai is the enormous 
Buddha, seventy feet high ; and, going up the staircase to 
look on the awful countenance of this image, one sees the 
big prayer-wheels. A simple method of getting in plenty 
of prayer ! 

It is better to look out from the balcony over those 

beautiful roofs, which make one wonder how the people 

who conceive and execute such beautiful things can yet 

make their gods so hideously, fearsomely ugly. There is, 

I believe, a rule that a building once inhabited by an 

emperor must, on his ascending the throne, become a 

temple. As emperor he is the Son of Heaven, and 

therefore no mortal can follow him and dwell in it. It 

seems to me that must mean a great multiplication of 

temples. I have heard and read that there are from 

two to three thousand Lamas here ; certainly the number 

is large. 

Their dress is most distinctive — a brilliant yellow robe, 
150 



THE LAMA TEMPLE 

with just inside the long wide sleeves a bit of blue showing, 
and the same colour again on their shoes ; with dark red 
under-robe, and an enormous yellow hat, shaped helmet 
fashion, the ridge of it feathered. The form is supposed 
to represent a sacred mountain in Tibet. 



51 



CHAPTER XXII 

CONFUCIAN TEMPLE AND HALL OF CLASSICS 

The "Stone Drums"— "The Spirits' Staircase "—The Hall of the Classics— The 
Porcelain Pailau — The Yellow Temple. 

WITHIN a stone's throw of the Lama Temple 
is that of Confucius, and adjoining it The 
Hall of the Classics. Both are now almost 
silent memories of the past. A few priests are to be 
seen at the first, which is much like other temples to 
the great teacher, whose word is law even now after more 
than two thousand years. In the courtyard are very fine 
old cypress trees, over a thousand years old, I was told. 
Here also are the ten "stone drums," in two rows of 
five stones in each row, said to be of unknown antiquity. 

A thing to marvel over and admire is the extraordinarily 
beautiful "spirits' staircase" of white marble, with steps 
on either side of a great sculptured slab of marble, covered 
with a mass of beautiful carving — the dragon, of course, 
predominant. 

The Hall of the Classics is still more quiet and 

neglected ; one has to bang loudly on the gates to 

make a dilatory attendant open them and receive his 

fee, and allow you to enter. Weed-grown and silent 
152 



PEKING: PORCELAIN PAILAU AT THE 
HALL OF THE CLASSICS 

Erected by Chien Lung, the builder of the Summer Palace. 



CONFUCIAN TEMPLE & HALL OF CLASSICS 

indeed is this place, and perhaps it is this very silence, 
so rare in China, which made me think it such a delight- 
ful place. Here I could sit for hours with not a soul to 
bother me ; and after the Lama Temple, with its crowds 
of Lamas and others always round me, this peace was 
very grateful. The hall itself is a fine building, raised 
on marble terraces and steps, with an old marble-balus- 
traded pond all round, lotus-grown and still, which is 
crossed by marble bridges. The woodwork of the 
windows is very good and also the great pillars sup- 
porting the double-eaved roof, the whole surmounted by 
a great gilt ball, the gold of which still glitters brightly 
in the sun. 

All round are the hundreds of stone tablets on which 
is engraved the text of the Nine Classics. But a few 
yards inside the entrance-gate is a large porcelain pailau, 
the three arches of which are lined with white marble ; 
and to the green and yellow of the upper part it is covered 
with ornate roofs of yellow tiles, and is altogether a very 
gorgeous piece of work, somewhat similar to the one by 
the Lotus Lake in the Forbidden City. 

Another fine group of buildings is the Yellow Temple, 
about two miles outside the northern wall. At the 
time of my visit, October 1908, the Dalai Lama — the 
pope of Lamaism and nominal ruler of Tibet — was lodged 
here, so that only part of the buildings could be seen, 
as his privacy was very strictly observed ; but we visited 

^S3 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

the white - marble monument erected by the Emperor 
Chien-lung over the clothes of the Teshu Lama who, 
while on a mission to Peking, died of smallpox, his 
body being sent back to Tibet. This is a very ornate 
building, with a somewhat semi-Indian character, rather 
like one built by the same Emperor at the Summer Palace. 
It is surrounded by very fine fir trees, and seems to attract 
many visitors, native and foreign. I was, however, more 
attracted to the eastern portion of this temple — much 
damaged in the Boxer troubles, but grand in its barbaric 
splendour of marble staircases and wide terraces, leading 
to the great halls, placed in spacious courtyards ; the 
gorgeous yellow roofs having wonderful turned-up eaves 
that showed the timber-work beneath. 

I saw a procession of Lama priests, in yellow vestments, 
coming out of one temple, quietly walking along the paved 
courtyard, and then ascending the grand staircase and 
disappearing into the great hall ; whence shortly after 
issued sounds of worship, a melancholy chant, then the 
beat of a drum and other weird sounds. 

The Yellow Temple, where the Dalai Lama and his 
followers were lodged, was built as a lodging for the 
emissaries from Tibet when on missions from Tibet ; 
and in the outer portion of the eastern end were camped 
many of his followers. What wonderfully picturesque 
figures they are ! There they were, mingled among their 
ponies, tents, and booths, Chinese hawkers from Peking 
154 



THE YELLOW TEMPLE, NEAR PEKING 



CONFUCIAN TEMPLE & HALL OF CLASSICS 

bargaining with them ; the Tibetans eager to buy the 
various Chinese and Western commodities, the Chinese 
as eager to get the many little ornaments and curios which 
the Tibetans carried for sale or wore as ornaments. I 
succeeded in getting some strings of turquoise beads of 
beautiful colour. 

There were also Mongolian horse-dealers, eager to offer 
us ponies, which looked sound though rough little animals. 

During the stay of the Dalai Lama here, great numbers 
of Mongols came in to pay their reverence to him, and on 
the plain between the temple and the city many of them 
were to be seen, men and women, riding at great speed ; 
splendid riders they are, weird figures to meet. The 
women wear quantities of beads, and quaintly worked 
silver ornaments on their heads. At this time I often 
met a squad of these wild-looking people in the streets 
of the city ; they rode along noisily and seemed to treat 
the quiet citizens with contempt, and the citizens did not 
seem over anxious to have much to do with them. 



155 



CHAPTER XXIII 

THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS 

Journey — A Comfortable Inn — Donkey-riding to the Ming Tombs — The First Pai- 
lau — Monoliths by the " Sacred Way " — Ruined Bridges— The Great Hall — 
The Tomb — The Traffic — The Gateway to Mongolia. 

AS they are now comparatively easy to reach by rail 

/\ from the Peking-Kalgan Railway station, outside 

J^ \^ the gate, the famous pass and Ming Tombs 

should not be missed by any visitor to Peking. The drive 

to the station is rather rough, but the rail journey is good 

and the country full of interest. It is mostly over a vast 

plain, and on the horizon one can already see the outline of 

the mountain ranges dividing China and Mongolia, the 

natural barrier which was not thought enough by the 

builders of the Great Wall. Less than two hours brought 

us (I made this journey with friends) to the station of 

Nankow, about a mile from the village, and at the entrance 

of the pass. The pass is the natural gateway from north 

to south, and through it has passed for centuries the traffic 

of nations, besides hordes of northern warriors who would 

in past times use this as their means of descent on the rich 

country around Peking. 

Near the station is a small hotel, clean and comfortable, 
156 



THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS 

run by Chinese, with fair cooking of foreign food ; we made 
this headquarters for our short stay. We at once procured 
donkeys to take us to the Ming Tombs, and with little 
delay made a start. A ride of a few miles, fording some 
small rivers and passing one or two villages, brought us 
within sight of the first sign of the tombs of the old 
dynasty. And now I began to see that, even when this 
journey has to be made by riding all the way from the 
capital, it was well worth the trouble. 

What triumph of architecture is this looming up on 
the horizon? Gradually we draw near and can see 
more clearly. It is a good beginning to the old sacred 
road to the tombs. A fine arched pailau, white marble 
and of grand proportions, standing solitary in this 
rugged country, makes one think of the great past and 
the dynasty which ruled this mighty empire. I felt I 
was indeed approaching a fitting resting-place for the 
Imperial dead. This glorious piece of building is in 
itself memorial enough ; but, though so great, it is only 
the first though the finest of the many wonders of the 
approach. 

Going close up to examine the work, I found a flock 
of sheep and goats browsing peacefully in care of a 
shepherd. The shepherd, I suppose, is so accustomed 
to this grand work of art he takes no notice of it, and 
would probably think nothing of using a bit of it, could 
he get it, for other purposes. 

157 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

What beautiful design is here, what masterly skill, 
what lovely carving! It is a masterpiece among the 
world's choicest possessions. 

The pailau forms the entrance to the long straight 
road across the level piece of country leading to the 
tombs. It is now little more than a rough track, the 
old paving-stones being broken and turned up, grass 
and weed-grown, and decay showing at every step. 

A little distance on we saw a red-walled gate-house, 
with tall and imposing marble pillars on either side, 
having wing-like projections at the top and carved 
dragons climbing up and round them. Passing through 
the gateway, we begin to see the marvellous line of 
grotesque sculptures which line this holy way. They 
are wrought in marble and of immense size. How, I 
wonder, were they brought there? But I am astonished 
at nothing the Chinese do ; they are past-masters of 
craft, and the mere moving of great weights would not 
seriously trouble them. 

In this wonderful procession are representations of men 
and beasts, and great stone monoliths and figures in old- 
time armour; other figures seem to wear priestly robes. 
Of the animals, camels and elephants were most remark- 
able, the latter being very realistic. Beyond these weird 
watchers of the dead rises a triple set of pailaus, not so 
grand, but rugged and impressive. The wide valley is now 

narrowing slightly, and we approach the hills, on the slopes 
158 



THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS 

of which are the actual tombs — thirteen in number, I 
think. 

What wonderful inspiration made those men of old 
choose such a site for their building-place, what brain 
conceived this truly Imperial approach ? 

These Ming Emperors must have had the souls of 
artists, whatever the other side to their character. They 
must have had a rare sense of beauty, judging by the many 
beautiful creations of their time still to be seen in China — 
their stately houses on earth, and their resting-places in 
death. Alas ! that the present rulers of China do not wake 
and recognise the wealth of beauty they possess in relics of 
their past, and take some steps to preserve it from absolute 
ruin. Here are the magnificent ruins of three marble 
bridges falling to pieces from sheer neglect. That 
mountain torrent may at times be strong; but the wit of 
man built those beautiful bridges, and surely the same 
wit could preserve such magnificent monuments of the 
past. 

Having with care crossed this waterway, now almost 
dry, we soon reached the entrance to the temples by the 
tombs. There are many tombs, but we only visited one, 
that of Yung-ho, gaining entrance after much banging at 
the great gate, which was opened by a coolie who came 
from a persimmon-orchard close by. We inspected the 
yellow-roofed temples, and passed through them to a large 
courtyard with cyprus and fir trees. On each side are 

159 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

great yellow porcelain shrines, where are burnt the annual 
offerings. 

Then we come to the enormous hall, supported on 
wooden pillars of great size ; they are made, I think, of 
Burmese teak. What a stately hall this is ! Stepping it, 
I found the size about seventy yards long by about half 
that width : it is empty and forlorn-looking now. 

Passing through this hall and down an elegant stair- 
way, one reaches another courtyard with more cypress trees, 
and beyond that is the solid mass of masonry which con- 
tains the entrance to the tomb itself. In front stands an 
altar-like building, on which are carved urns for joss-sticks. 

The building is solidly built of stone, the first storey 
crenellated, and on this is more masonry with very 
beautiful double roofs of Imperial-yellow tiles, with wide 
eaves showing fine woodwork, carved and decorated. 

A fitting guard-house to the tomb of an emperor! 
We rested a while in the quietness of this courtyard, and 
drank tea and took refreshment we had brought with us ; 
then prepared for our ride back to Nankow, some twelve 
or more miles. 

As we left the tomb evening was drawing on, and away 

over the plain we could see those giant stone monsters 

marking our way, and beyond, catching the gleams of the 

setting sun, I could discern that beautiful pailau. Perhaps 

it was the poetry of evening which made our return 

journey so delightful. Passing over those ruined bridges 
1 60 



THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS 

and wending our way silently and slowly between the 
ranks of those weird monuments of the past impressed 
me very much, and, as the light fell, it grew more and 
more weird. The stillness was intense and almost nerve- 
trying ; but soon we left the " holy way," and turned off 
to find a nearer pathway to Nankow. As the sun set the 
moon rose to light us on our way ; and by that light we 
continued our journey on our sturdy little steeds, in single 
file along narrow tracks, fording streams. At the end of a 
long day's work came the welcome from our Chinese host 
at the inn. What wonders I had seen that day! I felt 
I had lived for something. 

Next morning broke bright and glorious. What a 
splendid feeling it is to rise from sound sleep, in a strange 
place, and go outside wondering what one will see ! On 
this morning I went out to gaze away far, far over an un- 
dulating plain, extending miles away to and beyond Peking, 
I could see distant caravans of camels wending their tor- 
tuous way to the capital. Nearer, I made out some Peking 
carts and waited for them to approach, and found that 
on them were fixed, flag-fashion, paper signs of the names 
of well-known Tientsin foreign firms. Where does not 
the white man go in search of trade and gain ? These carts 
were on their way to and from the Mongolian country dis- 
trict, with representatives sent to buy or sell goods. By 
exhibiting the names of the foreign firms they represent they 

meet with more consideration than they might otherwise do. 

L i6i 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

Nankow Pass 

On this journey we added to our train an extra donkey, 
to carry our lunch and tea-baskets, &c., and extra wraps 
against rain, and soon got under weigh towards the small 
walled village of Nankow, which stands on the western 
side of the entrance to the Pass, and is overlooked by the 
paper-box-like forts built high up on the mountain sides. 
A quaint and busy little village is Nankow, Chinese with 
a distinct leaven of the Mongol among its inhabitants, on 
the direct highway between the two countries. A stopping- 
place, it is full of people and animals coming and going ; 
here a string of stately camels, there a herd of ponies, 
among them perhaps a potential winner of a Shanghai 
Derby ; there a drove of goats, and, trundling along the 
rugged uneven pavement, a Peking cart ; what frames the 
riders in those carts must have to stand all the bumping! 
Then comes a mule-litter, with noisy drivers, and amongst 
all we foreigners riding along on our donkeys, and drivers 
picking their way through the medley. We soon got 
through and began the ascent of the Pass. 

Below us rolls the turbulent little stream, small at 

present, but in time of flood doing no small damage. 

Above us, on the left, tower the mountains ; and across 

the valley are more mountains, but there is a change on 

that side, for along it is being built the Peking-Kalgan 

Railway, and, as far as we could judge, built well. 
162 



THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS 

At the time of our visit Nankow was the limit for 
passenger traffic, and I was glad indeed that we could 
see this wonderful road in all the glory of its mixed traffic. 
I should doubt if the world has another such road. Up 
and down this road for centuries this mountain-pass has 
been the trunk-way between China and Mongolia. Of 
old, down this pass must have come the invading hosts 
of the savage and warlike Northerners ; and now, to-day, 
it can be traversed by rail, and all too soon the glory of 
the road will be gone. The camel and the mule and the 
ox and the willing little donkey, Peking cart, mule litter, 
and Sedan-chair will very soon be mere tradition, gone 
for ever. This makes me glad that I saw it in full swing 
as it has been through all these centuries. Even now 
the railway has reached the Great Wall at the head of 
the Pass, and soon the iron rails will take command here 
as elsewhere, and gone will be the wonderful medley of 
traffic on this old-world way. It will sink into the silence 
of a country road, and the tourist will flash by in a train, 
and catch but a glimpse of the grandeur of the Pass, and 
none of its present and past character. The big flat 
paving-stones have deep ruts worn in them by the con- 
stant traffic of rough wheels. Some are torn up altogether, 
leaving holes which the wheels make deeper and deeper, 
and, according to the weather, are filled with dust or mud. 

Great rocks seem to have scattered themselves on the 

surface ; and how the drivers navigate the carts round and 

163 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

over them is a mystery. I have seen one wheel come 
right on a big stone of from twelve to eighteen inches 
high ; it stops a moment, and as the mule feels the cart 
pull round, he gives an extra pull and over it goes, bump 
down on the other side. The camels step along with 
their stately stride, their expression saint-like, as if asking 
you to notice what a burden is theirs ; they carefully 
steer round all obstructions, as do the clever little 
donkeys. 

Soon we come to a roadside drinking-place, surrounded 
by animals of all kinds, waiting their turn to get a 
refreshing drink ; beside it, a sort of meadow where 
camels and other tired beasts of burden are resting. 

Looking back, we have a grand view down the Pass. 
Down the rough mountain-side comes a spur of the Great 
Wall, with a tower-like watch-house set, sentinel-fashion, 
on an eminence. Under this can be seen a bit of the 
town of Nankow. In the valley below can be traced the 
course of the river, winding its way to that vast plain 
which has a never-ending distance merging in the sky. 
The road winds along, twisting and turning on the hill- 
side, and the groups of animals and of people can be 
seen away far off. A great landscape is this, worthy of 
a great brush. 

On we go, finding fresh interest at every turn, and 

come to an unique gateway with five-sided archway. 

How the men of old seemed to enjoy carrying out little 
164 



THE MING TOMBS AND NANKOW PASS 

architectural problems of this kind ! In the archway with 
flat top, the bricks must be keyed together; but this can- 
not be seen, and the spectator wonders why they do not 
fall out. There is some wonderful carving on the face 
of the stones of this arch, and inside the arch innum- 
erable Buddhas and other figures are delineated, though 
at the time of our visit we could not see it all, as work- 
men were engaged on some repairs and working under 
a screen. This is, I believe, another work of the time 
of the Ming Dynasty. 

All along this Pass are spurs of the Great Wall, as if 
at this point the builders were determined that, even if 
invaders did get through one barrier, it would only be 
to face another. 

About fourteen or fifteen miles from Nankow, we 

reached the top of the Pass and came on the outer part 

of the Great Wall, with its great gate through which this 

wonderful old road is carried ; this is on the summit, 

and we passed through, and gazed with longing eyes 

away down the winding road leading into the mysteries 

of Mongolia. I wished I might ride on and on, and 

explore more of the beauties of this land. I turned and 

watched for a time the passage through this hole in the 

wall, which admits the vast merchandise from one country 

to another. There it stands, as it has stood for many 

centuries, and through it there seems to pass an endless 

stream of life. In one direction go the products of the 

L 2 165 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

north — wool, sheep, goats, furs, ponies ; in the other come 
the manufactured goods of all kinds, some from Man- 
chester, some from Southern China, from America — 
indeed, from all the world. 

I could spend days watching that procession ; but I 
have to rejoin my friends and ride fifteen miles before 
night, and it is now late afternoon, and on this road no 
one travels fast with impunity. A good general view can 
be had here, but not quite so extensive, T consider, as can 
be seen at Shan-hai-kwan described in another chapter. 
Once more we mount and retrace our way, having seen 
one more world's wonder. 

I meant to return to this part and spend some time 
trying to paint the scenery, but was prevented, and all 
I have as a memento is the small drawing of the gateway. 

Our return journey was uneventful ; but as we ap- 
proached the lower end of the Pass, and the light was 
fading, the scene was, if possible, more beautiful in the 
uncertain light than in the brilliant sun of the early day. 
Thirty miles a day on donkey-back makes one wish for 
comfortable quarters and good bed, and we fully appre- 
ciated them. One of our party was a lady, who did not 
flinch from those two days' long journey on donkey-back. 
Early next morning we took the train for Peking, and I 
again took up the burden of my work in the capital. 



i66 



NANKOW PASS: GATE OF THE GREAT 
WALL 



CHAPTER XXIV 

A RIDE ROUND THE SUMMER PALACE 

My Restive Steed — Five-Pagoda Temple — Traffic on the Road — The Jade Fountain 
— The Porcelain Pagoda — Peking from the Drum Tower — Police Supervision. 

SO far I had seen only Peking, and was anxious to 
see the country round ; the one way to see the 
' latter satisfactorily is by riding. A good friend 
and fellow-guest at the hotel suggested I should go with 
him one day, and that he should mount me. So one 
morning we arranged to go round the Summer Palace. 
My friend suggested that, as one of his ponies was 
rather given to stumbling, I had better ride another 
which he had lately got. I mounted all right ; but, im- 
mediately this pony felt my weight, he seemed to object. 
Round and round he twisted, up and down he jumped, 
and when at last I got him to move off, he wanted the 
whole width of the street. His owner remarked that 
he would be all right presently. Then I found there 
was an uncomfortable kink in the saddle, and I had to 
abstain from posting. I felt I was in for a day's excite- 
ment. On we went away round the Imperial City walls, 
leaving the Tartar Wall by the Se-chih Men Gate. Here 

begins the Imperial Road ; but we turned off on a more 

167 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

shady and pleasant way by the Canal, and soon saw 
that strange building, the Five-Pagoda Temple. We 
only saw it from the outside, by a grove of trees. It 
is rectangular, and on the top are the five pagodas that 
give it a name. It is not wholly Chinese in form ; 
I should say it is rather of mid-Asiatic style. The 
pagodas have many tiers of ledges, smaller and smaller 
towards the apex. Near by is an immense marble 
tortoise, with the pillar of which once it was the base, 
lying on one side. This probably marks the grave of 
some one long dead. 

We cantered along, enjoying the sunshine and the 
exercise — my mount apparently happier going fast than 
slow — and soon came in sight of the distant roofs and 
pagodas where the stern Empress Dowager and the 
weakly Emperor were lodged. The villages through 
which we passed were busy with the great traffic always 
caused by the Court in residence. 

Reaching the large open space in front of the main 
entrance to the palace, we found an animated scene. 
The general appearance was somewhat like that of a big 
country fair at home. There were booths and stalls, at 
which were sold every imaginable thing a Chinaman 
could want. Jugglers, acrobats, pedlars and small huck- 
sters, soldiers on guard, cripples, the halt, the lame, and 
the blind— all gathered, I suppose, to get what they could 

out of the greater ones. Peking carts were hurr)dng to 
i68 



A RIDE ROUND THE SUMMER PALACE 

and fro from the gates, and carriages of European design 
carrying higher officials were coming and going. 

The brougham is the carriage now most affected by 
the Chinese gentleman. To see a smart new rubber- 
tyred brougham, with two parti-coloured rough Mongolian 
ponies drawing it and driven by a Chinese mafoo, with 
another servant standing behind, the owner in full 
mandarin costume inside, made my thoughts go back 
to Kensington and fancy-dress balls. We rode through 
this motley crowd, and, turning to the right, went round 
to the north of the hill the palace stands on. As we 
went along we could see many of the buildings still 
remaining on this side ; but they were sadly damaged 
in 1900, and have not all been repaired yet. 

All round the outsides of the wall were guards. We 

passed through a picturesque village with a fine bridge, 

which looked very well with the animated foreground, 

and up behind it the hill with its temples and pavilions, 

and on the top The Many Thousand Buddha Temple. 

As we cleared this village we found, on our left, flat land 

intersected with water and evidently highly cultivated ; 

on our right the ground was hilly. In front of us rose 

the hill out of which comes the Jade Fountain ; on its 

top is a high pagoda; before reaching this, we left our 

ponies and mafoo and went on foot up the hill, on our 

way visiting the Jade Fountain. I tried to find out 

why it was named so, as there is no jade and no 

169 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

fountain. The spring of beautifully clear water comes 
out at this point, and it is mainly from this source that 
the lake in front of the palace is supplied. On up the 
hill we went, and at last on a ridge we turned and got 
our reward. Some way off we could see the Summer 
Palace, and the lake spread out in front of us, looking 
very beautiful. I longed to penetrate the boundaries of 
some of those palaces, with the right to use a colour- 
box. To see them was most interesting, but not enough 
for me. I wanted more, but I was continually being 
told I would not get it. 

On the western slope of this hill we came to that 
little gem of art, now in ruin, the " Porcelain " Pagoda. 
It is perfect in proportion, rising in all its glory of 
porcelain tiles of all colours — one of the fairest bits of 
architecture in China. I felt thankful that it had been 
spared from total destruction, at that time of devilment 
when revenge was uppermost in men's minds. 

Of this beautiful thing I was able to do a small 
sketch. Near by are other pagodas, and below us the 
ruins of temples, but nothing to compare with it. The 
colours are mellowed by age, but still glitter in patches. 

Such a beautiful thing made me think of what 
Napoleon was reported to have said of Antwerp Cathe- 
dral — that it should be kept under glass. I trust it 
may be preserved for the admiration and instruction of 

coming generations. 
170 



A RIDE ROUND THE SUMMER PALACE 

We trudged back to our ponies. I found mine lively 
as ever ; fifteen miles seemed nothing to him, and his 
circus performance began again immediately I attempted 
to mount, much to the amusement of the crowd. By 
this time I had suggested to my friend that his whole 
idea in asking me to ride with him was that he wanted 
his new pony broken in ; of course he denied this, but 
even now I think he had designs of that kind. On our 
return journey I was so fully occupied in holding in 
this brute that I saw little else. At one point, inside 
the city gates and near the Coal Hill walls, he tried to 
bolt, and I had to use my whip, which seemed a great 
surprise to him. He bucked and reared ; but it was no 
use, and my return was made safely. 

One delightful day I spent in riding out to the Peking 
Racecourse. Here, as wherever a few Westerners con- 
gregate, is some sport. The course is some miles outside 
the walls, and we came to it by devious paths across 
fields, &c., my mount bolting at the last and entering 
the grounds by the pavilion in a most racy fashion. 

From here we watched some trials ; my friend's pony, 
on which I rode, being put round in good style by a 
friendly jockey. 

I had been invited to lunch, and, even at this distance 
from the city, nothing was lacking. Here, as elsewhere 
in China, the foreigners, who are gathered together 
mostly to make money, take good care to have a few of 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

the luxuries of life at hand, and the Chinese boy aids 
greatly in procuring them. 

View from the Drum Tower 

One of the most comprehensive views of the Tartar 

City of Peking is obtained from the old Drum Tower, 

standing north of Coal Hill and the Winter Palace, 

and quite close to the beautiful Bell Tower. Entrance 

is obtained by a low door, leading to a long straight 

stone staircase, dark as night ; to go up this staircase 

one should have a candle or torch. Climbing it, and 

reaching the chamber above, one is well rewarded. 

From the balcony, on all sides, can be seen the city 

stretching out. To the north, past the Bell Tower and 

over a mass of roofs, can be seen the northern walls, 

and, beyond, the undulating land stretching away to the 

Yellow Temple. To the east are more houses, with the 

higher roofs of temples appearing among them. To the 

west, far off, are seen the western hills ; and to the south, 

at one's feet, is the long straight street leading up to one 

of the gates of the Imperial City. Behind that rises 

"Coal" or "Prospect" Hill, crowded with pavilions. 

Rising out of the trees to the right is the Dagoba, within 

the Winter Palace, and nearer one can see gleaming 

water connecting with the Lotus Lake, and making, by 

canal, a waterway between this and the Summer Palace 

fifteen miles away. To the left are the yellow roofs of 
172 




^ 




PEKING: SEEN FROM THE DRUM TOWER 

Coal Hill on the left ; beneath, the Gate of the Forbidden City ; 
to the right, the Dagoba, which is within the precincts of the 
Winter Palace. 



A RIDE ROUND THE SUMMER PALACE 

the Winter Palace itself. Away beyond all this you 
can see the farther walls, with towering Chien-Men and 
other gateways, and even the far woodlands in which are 
the Temples of Heaven and of Agriculture. Peking in 
all its beauty of building and woodland and mystery is 
at our feet, and it would be hard to find a fairer pros- 
pect. One wants to look only at what is there, and 
the beauty of it, and try to forget all the past horrors 
which have been perpetrated here. 

Looking over this, the Forbidden City, one knows 
little of all that is enacted under those hiding roofs and 
walls. From this projecting terrace (which is made by 
the upper section of this tower being smaller, by so 
much, than the lower half) I made my drawing, which 
may give some idea of the place. The custodian did 
not at first seem quite sure about allowing me to work 
here, but I knew what this meant and went on with the 
work. At the end of my first sitting he demanded 
extra payment; I treated him to a few severe words of 
English and to very little extra money, and found him 
much more civil on my next visit. At this time I also 
carried on my picture of the Bell Tower, which was 
done just outside the fencing of the Drum Tower. 

Here I was viewed with suspicion by the police. 
The constable — if one can call a Chinese policeman by 
that name — discussed the matter with my boy, who told 
me he wanted my card, which I handed out. Visiting 

173 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

cards are a most useful article in China, and seem to 
cover many doubts. Soon this man brought a superior 
officer, who examined me and my work with great care, 
and asked many questions of the boy — where I stayed, 
how long I had been in Peking, &c. There was a 
change in the officials when I next appeared at this 
place, for I had been told that an edict in my favour 
had been issued by the Empress Dowager, admitting me 
to the Summer Palace. I found this had been published 
in the native papers, and my boy got to know of it and 
immediately demanded that his master should be respect- 
fully treated. So when I reached the Drum Tower, the 
attendant, instead of barring the way till he got his fee, 
threw open the door and bowed me in, though he took 
the fee when I offered it. When I went do\\'n to work 
at the Bell Tower, the police saluted and sent the crowd 
off helter-skelter. My boy smiled serenely at me, as 
much as to say he knew how to manage things. It was 
quite remarkable how henceforth, wherever I worked in 
Peking, the police cared for me and were most helpful 
and respectful. 



174 



CHAPTER XXV 
I OBTAIN AN EDICT 

WHEN I had been some weeks in Peking I 
heard from my friend at Jehol that the 
authorities had been told I was coming 
there to make maps and plans, and that I was not to 
be allowed within the Imperial Palace. This was proof 
the Chinese Officials did not understand what I wished 
to do, and I determined to try again. I went to the 
Legation and explained my theory to one of the secre- 
taries, asking him if he could introduce me to a Chinese 
Official who might understand my work and be able to 
get it seen by members of the Grand Council, explain- 
ing to them what I wished for, and to ask permission 
to paint at the Summer Palace. This programme was 
carried out with entire success. I was introduced to 
H.E. Lew Yuk Lin, a most enlightened gentleman, 
who has travelled much in Western countries and is a 
collector of objects of art. He was kind enough to 
interest himself at once in my work, and promised that 
he would endeavour to show specimens of it to the 
Grand Council ; at the same time he did not give me 
much hope. I was asked, " Supposing permission were 

175 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

granted, would I present the Empress Dowager with a 
picture?" I acquiesced. I knew I was asking for such 
a privilege as had never before been granted; and, for 
that very reason, I was more than ever determined to 
obtain it. After a few days my pictures were returned 
to the Legation, with the information that the Grand 
Council had seen and were much pleased with them— 
nothing more. 

Just at this time a small exhibition of the .work? of 
various amateur artists of Peking was arranged at the 
Legation. With these were exhibited some of my pic- 
tures, and I was surprised to find the interest taken, 
not only by the foreigners, but by the Chinese, many of 
whom visited the exhibition. I think all this helped 
to show the Chinese Officials my object, and I began to 
have hope of achieving my desire. Our Minister now 
informed me that H.E. Yuan Shi Ki had promised 
that he would approach the Empress Dowager on my 
behalf. The permit must come direct from her — no 
other could grant such a privilege; and it was suggested 
to me that a request put forward empty handed was not 
so easy as when the hand was full. I said, as I had 
agreed to give a picture if permission were given to me, 
I might as well give it now ; and so, out of many one 
was chosen and sent to the Wai-wu-pu for the 
Empress Dowager. 

Late one night I returned to my room to find a 
176 



I OBTAIN AN EDICT 

short note from Mr. Lew Yuk Lin, informing me 
privately that the Empress Dowager had that morning 
issued an edict allowing me access'^ to the Summer 

[Extract from the Pekin Daily News (Pei chung (^| jnfa vtt O 

zih pao), issued on the 6th day of the loth \jZ >&L ^ ^ 

moon in the 34th year of the reign of Kuang ^^ -iftf ^ *lfe|* **~*^ 

Hsu (30th October 1908).] ^L P8^ ^ ^^ A 

Permission by Imperial Edict given to a J^ ^SP "^ ^^ ^ 

British painter to sketch in the I Ho Yiian (the ^ |^ ^"^ -f^^ ^w^ g 
Summer Palace). -in i' ^ 2tr "I 



Some days ago the British Minister informed I§l S ^ !7 

the Wai-wu-pu (Chinese Foreign Office) in an ^ ^ /rt ^ 

official despatch that a painter of his own wl* "w 5& ^ 

nationality named Li Te-erh (Liddell) wished <^ fej^ ^ itir pi 

to enter the Summer Palace to sketch the build- ^ ^ ^^ fc- y| 
ings and scenery, and that several days would jH t 2fc 
be required to enable him to do as he wished. ^ I ^ gg 

We now learn that the Foreign Office approached 5*^ |I5 D jfiSfifrk K^ 

the Throne on the matter, and that they are in "^ JT* ^ ^gj ^ 

receipt of an Imperial Edict, in virtue of which /> ^U ^ Hift 'T 

permission is granted for him to enter the Summer iX "^JfZ ^ ^ 
Palace on the 5 th day of the loth moon (29th J& -^^ ^ "^ 

October), and to live in the buildings of the ^ O ^ ^ ^ 

Chinese Foreign Office there where he will be 1W ^^ S II 

entertained. 3^ i& % ^ ^9 

Palace ; and in due course the same information was 
conveyed to me through our Legation. I was greatly 

pleased to attain the one thing I wanted above all others 
in China, and immediately arranged to make the most 

M 177 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

of it. I was uncertain where I could stay, as, through 
some misunderstanding, no intimation was conveyed to 
me of the full wording of the edict ; and I arranged to 
ride out to one of the villages near the palace to try to 
find quarters. I went to what I was told was the best 
inn in the village ; and, though I was determined to put 
up with anything so as to work at the palace, the 
quarters offered me were not inviting; the rooms were 
not over clean, the floors stone, and as the cold 
weather was approaching this was a consideration. The 
courtyard seemed overflowing with noisy people, and, as 
I retraced my way to Peking, I was not very sanguine. 
But I hurried on to finish what work I had in hand, 
and get all ready for the day I had appointed to go to 
the palace. 



178 



CHAPTER XXVI 

THE SUMMER PALACE 

My Reception — My Quarters and Attendants — My First Walk Round — General 
Impressions — The Lake — The Great Temple — The Myriad Buddha — The 
Bronze Pavilion — The Grand Pailau— The Marble Junk — The Bronze Ox 
— The Residential Pavilions — My Procession to Work — Intense Cold. 



M 



Y bag was packed, my working things all ready, 

even my camp-bed tied up. My boy had got 

a warm coat, as I knew any day now might 

bring very cold weather. I went to bed wondering 

what next day, after all my anxious waiting, had in 

store for me. I was to paint a place I had never seen, 

except at a distance, and I did not even know if it 

would make a picture. I had been told I should only 

have a few days, which did not trouble me much ; I 

could trust to my wit in this matter. Of the few who, 

I knew, had seen the palace, one said it was nothing 

much and very new, another that it was very beautiful. 

After the message from the Legation I was up early 

and breakfasting before seven, when my boy came to tell 

me that a Chinese gentleman wished to see me. Going 

to my room I found him, and was thankful that he 

spoke English. By order of the Wai-wu-pu he had 

come to escort me to the palace ; he told me I was to 

179 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

be lodged there, and that rooms were allotted to me in 
a building used for foreign visitors when there was an 
audience. 

I was distinctly relieved that I was not obliged to 
go to the inn I had inspected the day before, and that 
I was to be really on the spot. Baggage being put 
beside the driver, and the boy also in that elevated 
position, my courteous guide and I entered the carriage 
and, preceded by an outrider, drove off. 

The sharp morning air made me think of the cold 

that was to come. We soon passed through the city, 

out at the western side, and over the canal which is the 

old waterway from the Winter to the Summer Palace. 

The western hills loomed up in the distance, and all 

the country looked beautiful. Autumn colouring was 

showing everywhere. Several villages were passed, the 

last and chief being that in which was the inn I had 

dreaded. On we went, seeing the palace roofs gleaming 

against the hillside. Passing through the pailau, which 

is placed where the road joins the open ground in front 

of the palace gates, we drove up to a gate. Here I was 

most courteously received by several mandarins and 

officials, escorted inside, and shown my rooms. I was 

told that a cook who understood foreign food had been 

sent out with other servants from Peking, and two boys 

as personal attendants ; in fact, I felt rather overwhelmed 

by the attention lavished on me. If it had been hard 
1 80 



THE SUMMER PALACE 

to persuade those in authority to allow me to come, 
certainly — once they gave that permission — they gave it 
fully, doing all that was possible to make me feel not 
only comfortable, but an honoured guest. When my 
things were got inside, my attendants courteously sug- 
gested that perhaps I would like to have a walk round 
the palace grounds. This was exactly what I wanted, 
to enable me to settle what I would paint. Orders were 
sent forward, and when we were ready to leave my 
quarters I found that I was at the head of quite a 
procession — I in front, my friendly mandarins following, 
then my boy, and the other boys and servants and 
coolies, &c. — for even in a state procession a lot of 
coolies are always joining in. 

I had noted that a sentry was placed at the outer 
door of my quarters which opened on to the courtyard 
in front of the chief gates ; he presented arms as I 
passed out to find a double line of fine looking soldiers, 
drawn up near my door across to one of the side gates. 
The centre gate is only used by the Imperial family. 
Between these lines I and my procession passed along, 
to be received at the gateway by the officer of the guard 
and various palace officials. Once I was inside, there 
was a little less formality. The mandarins ranged up 
to me, and kindly told me the names, &c., of all the 
different buildings we came to. The first was a large 
hall — used, I believe, at times of audience as a sort of 

M 2 l8l 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

first reception chamber. Passing by and going round 
this we quickly came in sight of a large and beautiful 
sheet of very clear water, with several islands dotted 
about ; it was surrounded by low walls with fine-wrought 
white marble balustrading. On one of the islands can 
be seen the Dragon Temple ; and from this island to the 
mainland on the southern side is the long and beauti- 
ful marble bridge of seventeen arches. At intervals other 
bridges are to be seen, including the famous camel-backed 
one of white marble. Also there are ornamental pavilions 
with red-pillared walls. 

As I first saw this palace in soft autumn sunlight, 
the western hills bathed in light but wonderfully soft 
in outline, the distant pagodas and temples placed on 
various eminences, and the great gleaming yellow-roofed 
red-walled buildings on the rugged hillside, their roofs 
of various pavilions just appearing out of the masses of 
foliage, it was fairyland ; and when I was able to see 
more closely various views of it, its great beauty became 
more and more impressed on my mind. The first 
designer of this lovely Summer Palace — well may it be 
named so — must have had a true appreciation of the 
beautiful, first of all, in the choice of such a delightful 
site. That bold hill, with its southern face running down 
to a marsh which was easily made into a lake, was 
certainly chosen by some one with the true artistic sense ; 

the same sense is shown by the wonderful way in which 
182 



PEKING: THE SUMMER PALACE 

Showing the greater part. The central buildings are Temples. 
Below is seen the yellow roof of the State Audience Hall. In 
the distance are the Western Hills. 



THE SUMMER PALACE 

the buildings were not only designed but placed to the 
best advantage, separately and in the mass. 

The lake is largely artificial. It was a piece of 
marshy land, the waters from the famous "Jade Foun- 
tain " running through it. On the northern side is the 
sharp and abrupt hill on which the main buildings are 
placed, all centred in the Great Temple built on a foun- 
dation of the most solid masonry one can imagine, 
composed of immense blocks of stone very closely laid. 
This foundation rises to a great height ; and the front is 
broken by the two staircases, which in three sections on 
either side lead up and meet on the top, which forms a 
large space, from the centre of which rises the chief 
temple with its enormous gilded image. The temple 
rises in three great tiers, each with its yellow roof 
bordered with green. Leading up behind this gorgeous 
building are more stairs to another temple — The Myriad 
Buddha which is on the highest point of the hill. It is 
entirely faced with porcelain tiles of yellow interspersed 
with green, with a white marble triple gateway in front. 
On each side of this central group and cunningly placed 
on the steep hillside are various pavilions and memorials 
— some with yellow, some with green tiled roofs. There 
are some stone tablets and bronze tablets to famous 
persons of the past. 

On the western side is that wonderful work of art 
and marvel of bronze, the Bronze Pavilion, wholly made 

183 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

of fine bronze : even the tiles are bronze and the floors, 
and the interior furniture — of which little now, I am sorry 
to say, is left. It is a reproval to Western civilisation 
that such beautiful things should be pillaged. Of the 
wonderfully wrought open-work windows some are gone — 
taken away, I believe, in 1900; but I was glad to hear 
that the British prevented the entire pillage of this place. 
It would be a gracious act if the owners of those 
window-frames, which are, I believe, still in China, were 
to restore them to this unique building. 

After a general inspection of this part we went on 
board some barges, and were rowed across the lake to 
inspect the Dragon Temple and the various bridges and 
buildings. From the water there is a wonderful view 
of the whole central group of temples, and this position, 
by the way, is entirely for state ceremonials and worship, 
and is enclosed by a red wall which runs along the top 
and down the sides of the hill. 

In front of all the group and on the water's edge is 
the Grand Pailau, through which, by the water, is 
obtained the state entrance to this portion, the state 
audience-hall and temples. This pailau is a gorgeous 
thing in itself, with its huge red pillars dividing the usual 
three gateways ; these pillars set on white marble plinths, 
and carrying over them gaily coloured and gilded open-work 
and carvings of dragons and other mythical creatures. 
Over all, and divided in three, are the blazing yellow roofs. 



PEKING: THE GRAND PAILAU, SUMMER 
PALACE 

The chief entrance to the Audience Hall and Temples from 
the Lake. Through the central arch in the distance is seen the 
Dragon Temple. 



THE SUMMER PALACE 

This building is backed by the first entrance-hall, 
which in turn leads through to others and so reaches 
the state audience-chamber. Each hall rises above the 
other, and over all are the solid stone wall and towering 
temples. The great group of architecture, all reflected 
in the clear waters of the lake, made a picture hard to 
equal. I had not time, alas ! to attempt to reproduce it 
on paper or canvas. 

Looking from the steps of the entrance-hall one sees 
the pailau clear and massive against the lake and sky, 
and, through it, the Dragon Temple with a glimpse of 
the Seventeen-Arch Bridge. 

Going on by boat we reached the curious " Marble 
Junk." Built about two hundred years ago, it has at 
various times been added to ; but the additions are not 
beautiful, nor do they improve the architecture. The 
original boat, in form like an old state junk, is good, 
being built of blocks of white marble and finely wrought, 
the stern rising high, and the whole very realistic. Built 
on this fine old work and rising to some height is a 
tawdry erection of wood, painted to imitate marble. 
The upper floor consists of tea-rooms for the Imperial 
family and their guests. Again, to meet modern ideas, 
excrescences of marble have been added, to imitate 
roughly paddle-wheels ; this is badly done, obviously 
out of keeping and proportion with the original struc- 
ture ; but the added paddle-wheels seem to suggest that 

185 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

the Chinese mind of some years ago really wished to 
adopt Western ideas, and used this means of showing its 
desire. 

Adjoining the Marble Junk is a fine marble bridge, 
with sculptured lions on the piers and a well-formed 
double roof over the centre arch. Near by are the boat- 
houses, in which are kept the gorgeous state-barges and 
the modern motor-boats now used on the lake. 

Away across, on the southern side of the lake, stands 
the grand casting in bronze of an ox. I call it a cast- 
ing, but much work must have been given to this 
artistic masterpiece after it left the founder's hands. It 
stands massive and alone. What masters of bronze 
work the Chinese are ! Look at the great lions near the 
Grand Pailau, finer even than those at the Lama Temple ; 
think of the storks and deer at the Winter Palace ! 

I believe Italian priests were called in to help design 

this Summer Palace ; and, looking at the whole from 

across the lake, I could see evidence of their work. 

That central group, on its enormous stone foundation, 

shows it distinctly in the severity of the stonework ; 

even the temple on the top, in spite of the Chinese 

roofs, has a touch of Italian, and I could almost imagine 

I was on an Italian lake, looking at some fairy palace. 

Italian or Chinese — I care not which — it is extremely 

beautiful. Could one wish for a more ideal place in 

which to dream away the sweet summer? 
i86 



THE SUMMER PALACE 

The pavilions of the Empress Dowager, and of the 
Emperor and Empress, are close to the lake, nearer to the 
entrance of the palace grounds than the state buildings, 
which they differ from in being roofed with gray tiles ; 
they are not large, but very dainty, and the word pavilion 
describes them well, as nearly all are of one storey 
and unpretentious. They border on the lake, with only 
a narrow paved footway in front balustrated with white 
marble, and are approached by steps at which pas- 
sengers can land from boats. 

In front of the Empress Dowager's are two tall 
slender pillars of wood, arched over at the top, from 
which hangs a large electric arc-lamp ; these tall pillars 
are decorated with white dragons on a green ground. 
Under the eaves of the pavilion are rows of electric 
lights. The windows are glazed inside elaborate wood- 
work, much of which is painted a brilliant red. To see 
all this lighted up at night and reflected in the clear 
waters of the lake must be very beautiful. I could 
imagine it to be somewhat like parts of Venice on a 
fete night, with the addition of the more picturesque 
Chinese figures. 

The gardens of these pavilions are neither large nor 
particularly beautiful, but the whole place is a natural 
garden, and so lovely that one does not miss the arti- 
ficial garden of Western style. 

From these pavilions to the state buildings and 

187 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

temples there is a covered way raised slightly from the 
ground, paved and roofed with tiles, the roof being 
supported on timber posts and beams, all of which are 
most elaborately decorated and painted with many quaint 
designs. 

The Empress Dowager has repaired all this southern 
part of the palace since 1900, and in this work one 
can see the introduction of many Western ideas. This 
covered way extends all along the foot of the hill, and 
is a means of access to every part of the palace build- 
ings ; a delightful walk it is, although hidden from sight 
among the trees ; and going along it, one can get 
delightful peeps out to the lake. 

I have said that the quarters set apart for my use 
were in a group of buildings abutting on the courtyard 
in front of the chief gates. These buildings are semi- 
foreign in design and fairly comfortable, though not 
originally designed for sleeping-quarters, but rather for 
the foreigners who come to audience when the Court is 
in residence. My rooms were, however, made very com- 
fortable for me, foreign bed and furniture being pro- 
vided. Almost on my arrival I was asked how many 
days I would require to stay to do my work. To this 
I gave an evasive reply. I had been told I could only 
stay a few days ; and, to do even a little of what I saw, 
I knew I must stretch out my time as much as possible. 

My reception on arrival at the palace was most 



THE SUMMER PALACE 

formal ; and after that, I thought I should be rid of 
ceremony and go about my work in my usual way ; but 
I soon found that my comings and goings between my 
room and my work were most carefully arranged. My 
own boy had become quite an important personage since 
his master became an Imperial guest ; he had two other 
boys under him, and as many coolies as he liked to 
have ; and though I had repeatedly told him that he 
and no one else was to carry my drawing, I found that 
he was giving it to one of his underlings to carry. 

Whilst staying here I found that the Wai-wu-pu had 
arranged that two mandarins, officials from the Foreign 
Office, should always be in attendance. I was told that 
this was to ensure me all possible attention and com- 
fort ; and that all the servants should do as I wished. 
To these mandarins I am much indebted. To state a 
wish to them was to have it carried out. I was quite 
free to go where I liked in this fairyland palace, and 
I had — as it were — but to wave a wand to find at my 
disposal all I wished for. Had time allowed, I should 
have wished to visit and examine every corner; but my 
purpose was to get, whilst I had such a chance, a few 
pictures of this place, to paint which no European before 
had ever had permission — and to this purpose I gave 
all my time and thoughts. 

As I have said, my comings and goings were matters 

of ceremony; and it may interest readers if I try to 

189 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

describe it. I would say to my boy : " Ready for work, 

boy," and he then called his underlings and imparted 

this news to them. They in turn notified the mandarins 

who were in their quarters adjoining mine. I watched 

the servants get my working things together. Once 

they had done this, they always knew just what I 

wanted, and forgot nothing. I then walked out into the 

courtyard to head the procession. I went in front, the 

mandarins following me, then my boy with my drawing 

in its case, then more servants carrying my various 

implements (they are cunning enough to divide up the 

loads, so that each has but little) ; and, following them, 

a few coolies carrying teapots and so forth. So we 

started — the sentry at the gate having notified the guard 

and presented arms as I pass : I find a long double line 

of soldiers going right across the great courtyard to the 

palace gates ; through this we pass, being saluted by 

sections as I go, and at the farther end by the officer 

in command. At this point we are received by palace 

officials ; and on our passing inside the gates several 

soldiers and palace officials join the company. Boatmen 

attend, in case I wish to go on the water. Proceeding 

to the subject I had in hand, I get quickly to work ; and 

my crowd of attendants dispose of themselves as they 

like. I thought that it would only be at first that such 

ceremony would be observed ; but it continued all 

through my stay, and I had much quiet amusement as 
190 



0-t It 




i*:ykt 



PEKING: THE MARBLE JUNK 

This imitation of an old junk, on the Lake of the Summer 
Palace, is used as a Tea-House for the Imperial family. The 
marble paddle-wheels were added during the late reign. 



THE SUMMER PALACE 

each day this performance was enacted for an unassum- 
ing artist. 

The weather had now become extremely cold, and I 
found it necessary to put on all the warmest clothing I 
had, and over all a heavy fur coat ; even so, I felt the 
bitter wind when I sat at work : how my attendants 
stood it I don't know ; but they could move about and 
seek shelter from the biting wind in corners of build- 
ings, whilst I had to stick to my easel. But I was 
never left entirely alone whilst on land, and only once, 
when painting the Marble Junk from a boat, did I 
succeed in getting rid of all my following, and having 
about two hours alone on my boat. That morning, on 
boarding the boats, I had suggested that all need not 
come, as it was so very cold ; so the mandarins and 
some others walked by the lake side to the point nearest 
where I should anchor. I counted my reduced fol- 
lowing, and found that on two boats with the rowers 
there were twenty-one persons with me, the two boats 
being fastened to a pole stuck in the bottom at my 
point of sight. I then told them all to clear off my 
boat so as not to shake it, and they rowed off and 
joined the others on shore ; but I was within sight all 
the time. 

I was rather amused once in passing along through 

the guard, when without thinking I suddenly stopped 

to light my pipe, and found that I had stopped the 

191 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

whole procession, and kept the soldiers with arms pre- 
sented while I did this : my mandarins had nearly fallen 
over me. 

There were telephones from the palace to the Wai- 
wu-pu in Peking, and I soon found that all my doings 
were being reported at headquarters, just exactly what 
I had done that day, and (if possible) what I was going 
to do. 

After a few days I heard that I was not to be hurried 
away ; but the weather was getting so severe that I found 
it very hard to keep at work. As I passed along the 
outer courtyard to my quarters, I could occasionally see 
at a distance the conveyances which had brought out 
from Peking visitors, who, driving thus far, would take 
chairs or ponies, or walk round on the neighbouring 
hills, so as to get a view of the Empress Dowager's 
famed summer home. 

The mandarins attending on me took turns in duty, 
driving out from Peking in the morning ; two would 
be with me one day and stay over night, to return next 
day to the capital and be relieved by two others. 

The day or two which I was supposed to have was 
spun out to nearly a fortnight at this delightful place, 
a time of continuous work for me and of great interest. 
The mandarins and others were kind and attentive in 
all ways, and I shall always have most kindly recollec- 
tions of them. 
192 



THE SUMMER PALACE 

Each day the cold got more intense and I had to 
make up my mind that I could no longer carry on my 
work outside. So I fixed on a day for departure, and 
now I had an example of the official mind. The officials 
had got to know me, and to understand what I was 
doing; and instead of being hurried away I was asked 
if I would remain longer, or — if I wished to go — would 
I return ? I should have been glad to return had it 
been earlier in the season, but November forbade it. 
I shall not forget my last day at the Summer Palace. 
The sun shone brilliantly from a clear blue sky, but 
the wind was intensely cold ; I worked at my subject 
of the Grand Pailau ; and though I stuck to it all day, 
at the last I was so numbed with the cold that I could 
not even put away my brushes, and to walk at all was 
painful. 

All was ready for my departure. My carriage had 
come from Peking ; and, only going to my rooms for 
some tea, I bid adieu to all, gazed my last on the lovely 
place, and set out on my long cold drive to Peking, 
which I reached before the closing of the gates. 



N 193 



CHAPTER XXVII 

RETURN TO PEKING 

Death of the Emperor and Empress Dowager — 
Anxious Times — Good-bye. 

THE hotel seemed very warm and comfortable and 
home-like, and it was pleasant to talk with other 
English people, and hear the news of the world 
from which I had been practically cut off. The gossip 
going round recalled to me a conversation with one of 
my attendants a few days before at the palace. He had 
been telling me of an audience at Court at which he 
had been present, and I asked him how the Empress 
Dowager and the Emperor looked : the Empress, he 
said, looked well and strong and walked erect, but the 
Emperor looked very ill. 

During my last week or so at Peking there were 
anxious times for many. Rumours came from the 
Winter Palace of the serious illness of the Emperor, 
then more rumours of the Empress Dowager, and it 
was felt that a crisis in the affairs of China was near. 
The strong hand so long felt was now trembling. The 
Emperor was known to be dying, and all were wonder- 
ing what might happen next. 
194 



RETURN TO PEKING 

Before leaving Peking I had invited all my Chinese 
friends to dine with me — those who had helped to 
forward my petition for entry to the palace, and those 
who had smoothed my way by their kind attention — and, 
to meet them, a few of my personal friends. For this 
farewell dinner I made for each guest special menu 
cards, on which I painted little bits of the Summer 
Palace. Just before dinner a note from one of my 
Chinese guests brought apologies for absence. The 
others came and we sat down. We were nearly at the 
end of our meal, when messengers arrived to call all 
the Chinese away from my table. They apologised 
gravely and politely and left ; and but a few seconds 
after another guest, a journalist of note, quietly asked 
me to excuse him. We remaining knew too well what 
must have happened, but could get no definite news 
till late that night. The Emperor was dead, and the 
Empress Dowager dying. Next day brought news that 
she, too, was dead ; both the long and the short lives 
were over, and a new regime must now guide the fate 
of the great Empire. Early next morning I was 
awakened by the march past of our bonnie Highland 
men to reinforce the Legation guard ; and so our watch- 
ful guardians took precautions which might be very 
necessary. There was considerable anxiety on all sides, 
for no one knew quite what might happen. 

I had still a little work to do in Peking; and cold 

195 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

though it was, I moved about in the city, and found 
the streets patrolled by military and extra police. The 
people stood about in groups, particularly near the many 
small banks, from which depositors or holders of notes 
were hurriedly withdrawing their money. A feeling of 
uneasiness was general. Walking with some friends 
one day up Legation Street, I was much amused to 
find that the Chinese gatekeeper near Hata-Men Street 
had most carefully oiled the hinges of the Legation 
quarter gates. He meant to make it easier and quieter 
to shut them hurriedly if necessary. 

But as far as we were concerned, all things seemed 
quiet. Tientsin papers came in, and it amused us to 
read of the events taking place in our midst of which 
we knew nothing. The many Mongolians, who for some 
time past had been coming to the capital to pay their 
duty to the Dalai Lama, were magnified by the press 
into an army of Mongolians on the north of the city, 
ready to force an entry. More than one Legation was 
said to have put out wire entanglements and made other 
preparations for siege, and women and children were pre- 
paring to leave. Rumours reached us that various high 
officials had suddenly met their end, and that others 
were imprisoned ; but nothing happened. The new Em- 
peror was enthroned, the Prince Regent was appointed, 
and things went on as before. 

On one of my excursions across the city I came on 
196 



RETURN TO PEKING 

the procession of the Dalai Lama, and in my ricksha 
rode beside him for a mile or so. He was seated in 
his yellow chair, alone — outside of the Chinese Imperial 
family — holding the right to ride thus. This remarkable 
man has an intelligent face of the true Asiatic type — high 
cheek bones, prominent teeth, and straggling thin black 
moustache. 

At the time of his arrival in Peking there was great 
discussion as to how he was to enter the city. I heard 
it was even suggested that a temporary way of wood 
should be built, so that he might come in over the 
Wall, as he could not enter by the one chief gate 
reserved for the Ruler. It ended, however, in him 
coming by train, and being carried in by one of the 
ordinary gates. His followers came in by all ways : a 
wild-looking lot they were, broad faced and hard looking. 

They certainly added to the picturesqueness of the 
rapidly Westernising capital — this horde of mounted 
Lama priests, their yellow gowns streaming in the wind 
as they rode. There was a troop of Chinese soldiers in 
the procession, but the Tibetans themselves formed the 
principal part. The Dalai Lama was returning to the 
Yellow Temple from the Winter Palace, where he had 
been present at the enthronement of the child Emperor. 

I was now finishing a picture of the Summer Palace 
which I had been asked to do for the Empress Dowager ; 
and as she was dead, I was in doubt what to do. I 

N 2 197 



CHINA: ITS MARVEL AND MYSTERY 

asked the Legation to make inquiries of the Wai-wu-pu, 
and I was told to finish the picture. I left the picture 
in care of our Legation until the period of mourning 
had passed, that it might be brought to the notice of 
the Prince Regent, who had been appointed to guide 
the destinies of China during the minority of the baby 
Emperor. I have heard since then that the picture has 
reached the Court. When it was completed there was 
nothing to detain me longer in the capital ; the weather 
had become too severe for outside work, and I felt 
my time had come to return southwards. This meant 
the beginning of my journey home. I was lucky enough 
in my voyage from Tientsin to be stopped on the bar 
at Taku, so that I missed the full violence of a typhoon. 
When we got out to sea, we felt only its after-effects. 
In calling at Cheefoo we were informed of the loss with 
many lives of a Japanese steamer, which had left just 
before we did. We landed in Shanghai without mishap, 
and my few days' stay there were taken up in arrang- 
ing for an exhibition of my pictures of China, which I 
had been asked to give for the benefit of a very deserv- 
ing charity, the Home for Rescued Slave Girls. 

To an artist one year is a short time ; and in a 
country so vast, and with such glorious treasures of art 
as China, it is all too short. I hope I may live to 
revisit the country and explore other parts of it. 

198 



GLOSSARY 



Amah, Chinese nurse. 

Bhoberry, noise and fuss. 

Bund, thoroughfare fronting the water. Built up from the water. 

Cangue, wooden frame for neck of a criminal. 

Chien Men or Ts{e?t Men, literally "front gate." 

" Chin-chin their Joss," making supplication to their gods. 

Chow-time, Chinese feeding-time. 

Compradore, Chinese intermediary between foreign merchants and the native. 

Dagoba, tower of the Mohammedan Mosque. 

Godowns, warehouses. 

Ho, river in the north. {Kiang in the south.) 

Hong, business house. 

Joss-house, place of worship, temple. 

Joss-sticks, sticks of rolled paper, with incense, which are burned in urns 

placed before the gods. 
Junk, large native boat. 
Kowliang, a tall cereal very much grown in Northern China, attains to eight 

or nine feet. 
Kumshaw, gift, tip (or cumshd). 
Lekin, native taxing station. 
Men, gate. 
Mafoo, coachman. 
No. I Boy, butler, chief servant. 
Pailau, memorial arch. 
Pidgin, business, and has been evolved from that word by the Chinese who 

cannot pronounce the word " business." 
Sampan, small native boat. 
Shan, mountain. 

Shameen, the island at Canton on which are the foreign settlements. 
Squeeze, commission or perquisite retained by Chinese in any transaction. 
Tiffin, luncheon. 
Yamen, office of an official. 
Yuloo, large oar. 

199 



INDEX OF NAMES 



BiNG-OO, 60, 62 

Temple of Confucius, 60 

Canton, 17, 28 

Shameen, 21 

City of the Dead, 24 

Pearl River, 18 

Flowery Pagoda, 23 

Temple of Five Hundred Genii, 24 

Lekin Station, 26 

Defence Creek, 26 

Macao Fort, 27 
Chinwangtao, 93, 94. 102, 108 
Cheefoo, 83, 102, 198 



GoA, 13 

Grand Canal, 80, 81 



Hangchow, 59, 65 

City, 68 

Medical Mission, 69 

West Gate, 75 

North Gate, 76 

West Lake, 64, 70 

Red Pagoda, 66 

Imperial Library, 66 

British Settlement, 64 

Japanese Settlement, 64 

Custom-House Wharf, 63, 78, 79 

Lin Yin Temples, 66, 75 

Whistling Stone, 67 

Cave Temples, 66 
Hoang Ho, 93 



Hong Kong, 1-6 
Peak, I 
Victoria, i 
Kowloon, 7 
East Point, 5 
Harbour of Refuge, 5 
West River, 5 
Sha-kai-wan, 6 



Japan, 83-91 

Nagasaki, 84, 86 

Mogi, 84 

Inland Sea, 85, 86 

Kobe, 86 

Fujiyama, 86 

Nikko, 87, 88, 89 

Tokio, 87, 90 

Yokohama, 86, 87 

Shimuzi, 86 

Shuzenzi, 88 

Cryptomaria Road, 88 

Katsuura, 89 

Sheba Temple, 90 

Straits of Shimonosaki, 90 

Moji, 91 
Jehol, 114, 137 



Kashing, 63, 64 
Kwangfoong, 56 



Macao, 12, 16 
Ming Tombs, 156 



201 



INDEX OF NAMES 



Ming Dynasty, 165 
Mongolia, 156. 163, 165 
Mutu, 54 



Nankow Pass, 162-166 

Great Wall, 156, 163, 164, 165 
Newchwang, 94, 107 



Pei-tai-ho, 83 

Rocky Point, 96 

West End, 96 

"The Cruet," 96, 104 

Rock Temple, 102 

Gulf of Pechili, 103 

Chang-lee Hills, 103, 104, no 
Peking, 119-198 

Tartar City, 127, 145 

Forbidden City, 173 

Yellow Temple, 153, 154 

Wai-wu-pu, 122, 132, 176, 179, 189 
198 

Tsien or Chien-Men, 123-126 

Yungting-Men, 124 

Hata-Men, 126 

Se-chih Men, 167 

Morrison Street, 120 

Temple of Agriculture, 124, 173 

Temple of Heaven, 119, 124, 125, 

138, 139. 140, 143, 173 
Lama Temple, 145, 151 
Confucian, 152 
Hall of the Classics, 152 
Coal Hill, 125, 132, 135, 172 
Legation Quarter, 126 
Dagoba, 135 
Lotus Lake, 153 
British Legation, 121, 122, 123 
Tartar Wall, 119, 123, 126, 167 
Water Gate, 120, 121, 126 
202 



Peking — continued 

Hata-Men Street, 127, 129 
Bell Tower, 172, 173, 174 
Drum Tower, 173, 174 
Racecourse, 171 
Imperial City, 172 
Five-Pagoda Temple, 168 
Von Kettler Memorial, 128 

Port Arthur, 93 



Shan-hai-kwan, 105-112 

Great Wall, 103, 105, 106, 108 
Drum Tower, 1 10 
Shanghai, 29-50 

Native City, 37-45 

Whangpoo, 39 

Woosung, 29 

Hongkew, 32 

Nankin Road, 30 

Foochow Road, 31 

Soochow Creek, 32 

Defence Creek, 37 

Race-course, 32 

Bubbling Well Road, 32, 46, 48 

83 
New Maloo, 38, 41 
Bird Market, 38 
Old Tea House, 38 
Legend, Willow Pattern, 39 
Piece-Goods Temple, 40 
French Settlement, 46 
Sicawai Creek, 46 
Arsenal, 46 
Loongwha, 46, 48 
Soochow, 51, 52, 57, 65 
Summer Palace, 179 
A ride round, 167 
Many Thousand Buddha Temple, 

169 
Jade Fountain, 169, 183 
Porcelain Pagoda, 170 



INDEX OF NAMES 



Summer Palace — continued 

Dragon Temple, 182, 184, 185 
Bronze Pavilion, 183 
Grand Pailau, 184, 186, 193 
Marble Junk, 185 



Tahu, 5t, S3, 56 

Taku, 198 

Tientsin, 94, 97, 103, 



[3, n8, 198 



Tientsin — continued 
Gordon Hall, 115 
Pai-ho, 113, 115 

Wei-hai-wei, 83, 93 
Widow's Monument, 62 
Winter Palace, 122, i 
Wong-Dong, 57 
Woo Men Bridge, 57 
Yellow Sea, 93 



4, 131-136, 173 



THE END 



Printed by Ballantyne, Hanson i2r> Co. 
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